Norge ECU problems

[Count Wzzini]

I have a problem with the ECU on my Norge 8v GT. The bike has gone completely dead, with no power going to the ECu, so no coloured lights when the ignition is turned on. Once happened outside local bike shop, who sorted it saying problem was a corroded connector. Another time I sorted it by cleaning the 3 amp fuse in the auxiliary fuse box. It has happened again, bike quite dead. Message AP5N 0002 flashes up and then all goes dead. Clearly no current going to the ECU. I have had go at removing the ECU with a view to check the earth and connectors. Just getting to the ECU is a nightmare! How one can remove it or take off the connectors in-situ is beyond me.
Any ideas on diagnosis and cure? I can do tappets and brake fluid, and sorted out an oil pressure switch, but electronics are beyond me?

Thanks for any help.

 

[V700Steve]

I know it's pain but that's what you have to do. Clean the connectors both of them then the other ones on your harness. Ignition switch, dash both switches on handlebar. Most all of them and the connectors for the relays. Battery connections need to be clean and be sure batt is good. If you can not do this take it to the shop & pay someone.
Everyone likes gizmo's till the electrics needs fixing. This is just maintenance for electrical systems.

 

[Count Wzzini]

Dear J Zibell
Thanks for your useful advice. Is it possible to take the two connectors on the ECU off in situ? I can’t see how the unit is removed with all the various control cables running either side.
Anyway thanks for your help.
Rather miss my old Spada, much easier to fix.

 

[Bill Hagan]

Dear J Zibell
Thanks for your useful advice. Is it possible to take the two connectors on the ECU off in situ? I can’t see how the unit is removed with all the various control cables running either side.
Anyway thanks for your help.
Rather miss my old Spada, much easier to fix.

Actually, while John agreed (as do I, albeit with fewer credentials than theirs ), it was [V700Steve] "GuzziSteve" who gave you the roadmap to success.

Bil

 

[Count Wzzini]

Dear Guzzi Steve
Many thanks for your advice.
Regards

 

[V700Steve]

Yes, it's doable as it sits on bike but not fun to swing the locks for connectors. You may want to cut the wire ties on harness to frame so it can move more. Then replace when finished.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

BEFORE you start yanking cables and connectors, you need to FIRST, establish that you have a fully charged battery, which can successfully pass a LOAD TEST.

Although this has been repeated here about 25 million times, a LOAD TEST is NOT putting a voltmeter across the battery terminals to read 12 volts. Not at all!

A LOAD TEST, is a specialized test, performed with a Load Tester, TO CHECK AMPERAGE drops while the battery is Under Constant Load, for 15 seconds.

This is the first thing everybody with any electrical gremlin or dash error, needs to do.

Until you establish that you have good, clean, solid, full power, then all of that other hoopla, is a complete waste of time.

(Think about it! You pull connector after connector cleaning, and checking and reseating, only to fail time and again because in truth, the battery is not up to the task at hand but you never established this fact first.)

Diagnosis is performed in a specific sequence, and in this case, task #1 is establishing that the battery is providing what it is supposed to provide, electrically. This is both voltage and more importantly, amperage.

Good luck.

 

[Brian UK]

Are you sure it's power not getting to the ECU? When I had this problem on my earlier Norge, it was power not getting to the dash. Turned out to be a connector by the steering head under the front of the tank.

 

[Count Wzzini]

Are you sure it's power not getting to the ECU? When I had this problem on my earlier Norge, it was power not getting to the dash. Turned out to be a connector by the steering head under the front of the tank.

lack of power to the ECU is certainly a symptom as none of the warning and check lights come on. Once before I had this symptom and the problem was the 3 amp fuse being a bit corroded. The battery is in good order and so this is not the problem. I will try all the connectors. I have read the ECU earth can be corroded, but it is very hard to reach.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Just use an inexpensive long wire with alligator clips at both ends to quickly setup a new ground path and you can test that idea.

There is only one connector on the dash and it is an eccentric locking clip. You can see it in photos along with information on how to quickly get to it, on my thread on sending my dash to Carmo.

 

[Brian UK]

My dash looked dead when I turned on the ignition, nothing.
The fault was the switched 12v supply to the dash, a small connector by the steering head, not the big multipin one on the back of the dash.

 

[Count Wzzini]

Dear Scott
an excellent simple idea. I will try it!

 

[Count Wzzini]

I am a bit embarrassed to say this, but the problem turned out to be a poor battery connection and actually a rather tired old battery. So to all those that told me to check the battery first of all, thanks! A bit of a lesson as from 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,' start with the first simple things and don't make assumptions.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

I am a bit embarrassed to say this, but the problem turned out to be a poor battery connection and actually a rather tired old battery. So to all those that told me to check the battery first of all, thanks! A bit of a lesson as from 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,' start with the first simple things and don't make assumptions.

Diagnosis is performed in a specific sequence, and in this case, task #1 is establishing that the battery is providing what it is supposed to provide, electrically. This is both voltage and more importantly, amperage.

Congratulations! I'm very glad you solved your issue.

Contrary to the way some behave towards me around here, I really do know what the hell I am doing and what I talk about.

Sometimes, I wonder why I bother to write such detailed explanations when so many people do not even bother to read them.

Funny, when people are paying $100/hr at my workshop for my time, they listen VERY CAREFULLY to what I have to say.



On another note...

Just finished my restoration and service work on my recently acquired (last October) 2007 Norge for her maiden voyage. (I still have some minor touch up work with tiny paint chips, but not today! The sun is shining 81 degrees finally here in Northwest Ohio)

Taking her out in about 5 minutes and very excited!!!

 

[tris]

I am a bit embarrassed to say this, but the problem turned out to be a poor battery connection and actually a rather tired old battery. So to all those that told me to check the battery first of all, thanks! A bit of a lesson as from 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,' start with the first simple things and don't make assumptions.

On the subject of battery terminals, what is the community's thoughts on using white petroleum grease (vaseline) on them for corrosion protection and how do you apply it?

Cheers

Tris

PS nice Norge Scott

 

[kiwi dave]

On the subject of battery terminals, what is the community's thoughts on using white petroleum grease (vaseline) on them for corrosion protection and how do you apply it?

Petroleum grease is an insulator, and therefore should not be applied between the battery terminals and the cable terminals that connect to them. However, once the terminals are connected, then it is a good idea to cover the terminals with vaseline or petroleum grease to stop surface corrosion. Otherwise, if you live near the ocean, you may find "trees" starting to grow.

I

 

[Nordicnorm]

Permatex offers a product called "Battery Protector". It is a conductive grease (as opposed to dielectric grease). They recommend cleaning the terminals and assembling them clean and dry, then covering the terminals with their product. It is also a corrosion inhibitor. Any autoparts store in N. America should carry it. Don't know about the rest of this fine planet.
I used to apply it before assembly (against recommendations) but have found my battery terminals have sometimes had a tendency to come loose from the lubrication and vibration combined, leading to nuisance service alerts, which again, as Scott keeps repeating, is traced back to the battery condition or connections.

 

[Count Wzzini]

Congratulations! I'm very glad you solved your issue.

Contrary to the way some behave towards me around here, I really do know what the hell I am doing and what I talk about.

Sometimes, I wonder why I bother to write such detailed explanations when so many people do not even bother to read them.

Funny, when people are paying $100/hr at my workshop for my time, they listen VERY CAREFULLY to what I have to say.



On another note...

Just finished my restoration and service work on my recently acquired (last October) 2007 Norge for her maiden voyage. (I still have some minor touch up work with tiny paint chips, but not today! The siun is shining 81 degrees finally here in Northwest Ohio)

Taking her out in about 5 minutes and very excited!!!

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Lovely smart bike,
hope you enjoy your first ride and have very many more. I notice you have shifted the oil cooler higher up. I notice that mine on a 2011 8v below the engine catches a quite a lot of mud and rubbish. (I live in the UK and ride quite a lot on country roads which can be quite muddy.
Regards
Russell

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Thank you. I hope the same for you as well!

My maiden voyage was a short 20 minutes long as my third son, the youngest, texted that he was coming to visit, so I ran back home to greet him and enjoy his company.

I will attempt a little better ride today but it is significantly cooler today again. Ohio weather just sucks. Being from San Diego, California, I actually despise the erratic weather here.

Oh, and actually, that’s the stock mounting location on a 2007.



The 8V changed locations due to the different bodywork and engine.



When I started my quest for a Norge a couple years ago, I specifically looked for a 2V as that was what I wanted as I already own a 2012 Stelvio NTX 8V.

I agree, both from having been to the UK and from many posts here over the years, that the weather in the UK is just brutal on motorcycles. It is a constant battle against environmental contaminants.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

On the subject of battery terminals, what is the community's thoughts on using white petroleum grease (vaseline) on them for corrosion protection and how do you apply it?

Cheers

Tris

PS nice Norge Scott

I'm in the USA and swear by this product and it is what I use in my shop. It has been around for generations. One can will last a lifetime, and they make it in a very small size which has a 1 ounce, which again for the average bike owner, is a near lifetime supply.