• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge Fuel Tank Removal

Rotten Ralph

Rotten Ralph

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
31
After reading all of the threads on this topic and looking at my Norge, I'm still not clear on what I have to remove other than the rear tank bolt to lift up the tank. The threads say "remove trim" but I can't see anything that directly attaches to the tank other than that bolt.
 
There a screw on each side of the tuppaware just above the rear of each cylinder head that have to be removed.

Plus the electrical connection to the pump and fuel gauge sender, and two breather pipes, both are under the rear of the tank. You might like to remove the RH side cover to get at these.

And of course the infamous fuel line connector. If you haven't undone this before, expect a bit of frustration. You have to pull back the grey outer ring while simultaneously pushing in on the hose, before pulling on the hose. Does that make sense? It doesn't when I write it down, but that's how I undo them. They can be very difficult. I have found that running the motor and then disconnecting the electrics from the tank while the motor is still running can help to reduce the fuel pressure in the hose. I learnt that trick from someone on this forum.

Helps if the tank is nearly empty, it's rather heavy when full. Good luck, it will be easier the second time.
 
Thanks for that info kiwi dave- I have removed similar gas line fittings so hopefully that won't be a problem.
 
Out of curiosity, how far can the tank be lifted without disconnecting (anything other than the bolts)?
 
Without disconnecting any lines the tank can be lifted out and moved around a bit to access the air filter and so on. The biggest pain is the fuel line connector which works somewhat like an airhose fitting but not quite as easy. A block of 2 x 4 will help in making room to disconnect everything.
 
OK I looked at all of the threads I could find and I'm still not quite clear on this fuel line connector. I cranked the starter several times with the pump disconnected as suggested and I did spray with WD 40. All of the past compression type fittings I have used are just a push/hold/pull affair.

Does the grey cap have to be in a certain position? I see 4 gray tabs underneath on the line fitting and it looks like 4 grooves in the cap. Neither the fuel line or cap seem to move very far. When I pull back on the gray cap it doesn't seem to do anything and is quite loose. It doesn't seem like anything is releasing.That cheap plastic looks like it wouldn't take much to break so I have been trying to be very careful.

Do you think that a blowtorch would loosen things? (just kidding!!):laugh:
 
Let's try another explanation.

Run engine and while it's running disconnect the electrical plug to the tank and wait for the engine to stop. To reduce pressure in the fuel line.

Rear of tank raised and propped for access to the wretched coupling.

Left hand - hold and brace the red plastic elbow which is flexibly mounted in the tank plate access cover.

Right hand - thumb and forefinger grips the grey retention collar - rest of fingers and base of thumb grips the fuel hose.

Now - push the fuel hose and red elbow towards each other and at the same time pull and wiggle the grey collar back towards the hose.

Refitting is easy - brace the red elbow and push the hose onto it until you feel/hear a click.

Graham
 
I have a question. Is the gray collar supposed to be completely free? This tank had been off before I got the bike and I wonder if the collar got messed up. The collar just spins free between the fuel line and the red fitting. It seems like it should be attached to the fuel line somehow.

In looking at a photo on Wildguzzi, it seems like the collar is attached to the fuel line. Help!!
 
The grey collar should be attached to the fuel line. It is meant to pull back under finger pressure but from memory not rotate. Still I'd see what happens when you follow the disconnection procedure. All may be OK.

Graham
 
Ralph

That grey collar looks as if it's been pushed forward rather than pulled back. Have you tried working it back carefully while pushing the exposed white engagement pins in? It may engage again as it should be. I've just checked mine and it can't be rotated at all.

Before removing the fuel tank it's a good idea to have it as empty as possible - it will be heavy otherwise - and be ready for dribbles when the connector is released. Also it is a good idea to have somewhere ready to sit the tank nose down - the shut off in the red connector isn't as fuel tight as it should be.

Graham
 
Graham,

Finally got the line off - it was easy. I just used a small screwdriver and popped off each of the four white tabs one at a time. The collar doesn't have any tabs on it - they were broken off. If I can't get a new collar from MPH I think I will just secure the line with a cable tie after it snaps back in place. Sound OK?

Thanks so much for your help with this project. I never would have suspected that the collar had been mangled.

Ralph
 
Ralph

Great news! The previous attacker must have become so frustrated he pulled on the collar until it broke. I wonder if he gave up at that point?

It could be that you've found the answer to that horrible thing - break off the grey collar and fit a hose clamp instead to reatain the hose. Please let us know how you make out with that.
 
Here's what my old collar looks like. No wonder the bugger was driving me nuts!!!!

I did get a new one ($13.90 from MPH)
 
Hi Graham - yes, both were very easy.

Someone must have "lost it" trying to remove the original!!
 
Darn I wish the pictures were still visible here. I’m facing this procedure this week. I’ve removed Mercedes and ford and Chevy fuel line widgets so I assume this one will be frustratingly similar in that once you know the trick it’ll be fine.
 
Tank off is simple, but…I couldn’t budge the infamous fuel connection without feeling like I was going to damage something. So wheeled my portable bench beside the bike, its height was right to rest the tank on, connected, without stress on anything-me included.
(Job was oil pressure sensor, the other infamous part on a Norge.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top