• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge known issues - help me trust my bike

phowardm

Just got it firing!
Joined
Feb 5, 2012
Messages
5
Location
Santiago, Chile
After a year of riding my 2009 Norge 1200 GTL there are some issues that makes me think that doing long travels should not be a good idea. The bike is great riding, looking and the feel is uncomparable but of course this is not a japanese bike so it needs more atention.

This thread is to make a compendium of known issues that are better to get solved before they occur. In my experience I went through:
1. Loosen (and missing) center stand bolts.
Solution: Remember to fasten the bolts every two month.
2. Ignition harness cable cut because of steering movement and the cables are too short.
Solution: Not very elegant but just use a longer cable to join both end of the cut cable.
3. Got click but not crank (Starting issues).
Solution: Because starter relay is not getting enough feeding, bypass the yellow cable with a direct connection to battery (using a 30A fuse). Don't waste your time disassembling the whole bike to get to the starter motor/solenoid, the problem is right under your butt!!!
4. Lower side pannels cracks near the bolts.
Solution: I use epoxi to bond it.
5. Mirror vibration until it breaks.
Solution: This is for all of us with 2V engine (chrome mirrors), get the new ones (black ones).


This aren't issues but for me they are because I like a predictable bike:
1. Fork emulator valve (YSS or Racetech) and 15wt oil.
2. Penske 8975DB rear shock, WOW!
This makes the bike behave a little more sporting like but still very confortable. You can take a high speed turn with confidence because the bike will hold the line you chose.
 
#1 Center stand issue fore me was cleared up by using Locktite. Been fine ever since.
#3 I am enjoying just now. I plan to work on this later this afternoon. I may have to ask questions of you later as where this wire is if I have problems.
 
Don't forget about:
Losing ground to block continuity behind starter area
(Cleaned & scuffed)

Cracking exhaust crossover pipe

Heated grip wiring on throttle side breaking

And the pinging from hell when it gets hot
(different mapping has helped a lot)
 
#1 Center stand issue fore me was cleared up by using Locktite. Been fine ever since.
#3 I am enjoying just now. I plan to work on this later this afternoon. I may have to ask questions of you later as where this wire is if I have problems.
This is not so much a "reply" as a question: What issue were you encountering with the center stand that required the use of Locktite? I ask because the side stand on my 2006 Norge has recently developed the habit of loosening up on a somewhat regular basis. So frequently in fact, that I now carry an long 8mm ball hex socket and 3/8 ratchet in my jacket pocket whenever I ride. The side stand pivot bolt loosens but access is limited by the exhaust pipe. Does anyone know how long the pivot bolt is? Will I have to remove the exhaust pipe from the header to fully access the pivot bolt?
 
Had the same issue with the side stand on my 1200 sport, I had actually lost one of the bolts, which was evident after walking back to the bike after fueling it once. A new bolt, loctite and I have never had a problem since. The bolt size is a M12 x 35. And yes you have to take the header off to access properly.

Edit. Sorry Looking at your post I see you mention "pivot bolt", Haven't had an issue with that ,dont know what the length is, the part number is AP8121994 It should have a spring washer on it to stop the nut coming loose., maybe a nyloc nut would be a better option
 
Last edited:
The Norge center stand MUST be installed with red loctite in the pivot bolt. Otherwise, she will eventually back out and jettison off of the motorcycle at the most inappropriate moment. 😵‍💫

Ask me how I know this…

IMG 2007
 
Last edited:
The Norge center stand MUST be installed with red loctite in the pivot bolt. Otherwise, she will eventually back out and jettison off of the motorcycle at the most inappropriate moment. 😵‍💫

Ask me how I know this…
I used the blue loctite (242) after my incident on my 1100 Breva and it is holding just fine. Some day you might want to be able to unbolt the center stand.
 
Thus far no problems with center stand, but the side stand is another issue. The side stand pivot bolt screws directly into the side of the engine crankcase. I do not know whether to use Loctite red or blue. Nor do I know if I should remove the left side exhaust system or if I could simply unscrew the allen head pivot bolt until it contacts the exhaust pipe, spray it liberally with brake cleaner, allow it to dry, apply the Loctite, then use the ball headed socket to screw the bolt in until it is as tight as I can get it. Yeah, I am kinda lazy, but only when I think I can get away by being so. I have already prepared the parts list if I need to pull the left side exhaust system, I'm just not sure of the need, pending other options, if any.
 
I’m with tobinh here 100%

As a matter of principle, I will avoid using a ball head socket unless I have absolutely no other choice available to me.

Those ball ends are experts at destroying and deforming the Allen head.
 
Well it appears my frustration has impeded my ability to correctly identify the actual problem. The loose side stand on my 2006 Norge is caused by the mounting bolt that attaches the side stand bracket to the motorcycle crankcase, not a loose pivot bolt as I originally thought. In my defense, I am currently trying to resolve a starting problem on a 2004 750 Breva while also addressing broken screws that attach the alternator cover on my 1978 850 Le Mans in the garage which prevents my wife from parking her car inside. She is not happy. I cannot access the mounting bolt for the Norge side stand bracket because it is behind the left header pipe. To pull the header pipe will require removal of the side fairing and the parts manual is not very clear as to where the attachment points are located. Anybody have any "inside" information regarding the fairing attachment points?
 
Back
Top