• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge Pannier Lock

GerrySweetland

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 29, 2010
Messages
8
Hi all,
I am going to install a new rear spring on the Norge so to get the bike ready for the kit to come in I was trying to remove the left side pannier. I had to remove the lock nut that holds the front lock (aluminum part) to the frame in order to remove the pannier.

As you can see in the photo below there is a latch (kind of similar to a car door?) that holds the aluminum piece.
How does this mechanism move down to release the alum. part?


It seems to be locked in the up position. I can push the alum. part back and make the single lower part engage further but for the life of me I can't get it to release or move down.
I moved the bail wire up and down and I don't think that is connected to the latch mechanism, or it doesn't seen to have any effect on the latch.
I tried to wedge a screwdriver in there but I can't get the lower part to move.
any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gerry
 

Attachments

  • Norge Pannier Lock.jpg
    Norge Pannier Lock.jpg
    52.4 KB · Views: 433
The bail wire does nothing for the latch it's a secondary safety latch with no connection to the real (primary) latch.
The panniers are a bit tricky to remove until you get used to it.
Turn the key. Push the key down firmly to the bottom and give a sharp hard tug on that little aluminum thingy since it is now removed.
It now may be a two man job with one to turn and push the key down and hold the panier, the other to clamp on to that little thingy with a pair of vice grips and give a good yank.
Does the linkage look frozen? Maybe a little WD 40 would help if things got corroded.
I hope that you don't have a linkage issue which would require unscrewing a few bits in the back of the pannier.
My brother had a heck of a time getting all the linkage back together on a BMW pannier.
 
Thanks Brian,
I didn't realize that you could use the key to turn and push down to release the latch.
Gerry
 
Easy when you know how. You are not alone in having to work this out.
Congratulate yourself, have a beer, and put that pesky aluminum thingie back where it belongs. ;) ;)
 
Wish I had looked at this post sooner, I couldn't work out you had to push the key down so removed my links from the frame as well, just tried the turn and push method and the aluminium latch flew off, Doh! :oops:
 
Back
Top