• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Norge rear brake loss

I will say replacing the ABS unit was easier than I thought. That said I went for a ride a couple of days ago, applied the rear brake for a sharp turn in a gravel parking lot, the rear brake traveled way farther than expected and probably has air in it again. I got 1,300 miles before the problem resurfaced. I have changed the master cylinder, caliper and ABS unit. Sure maybe the used ABS unit has the same problem but at $100 a copy it seems a bit much to keep trying used ones till I get a good one. I am going to plug the rear brake port in the ABS unit this winter and run a brake line from the master cylinder to the caliper. No rear ABS but at least I will be able to trust the brake. Today I will bleed it again in case I get a chance to ride before white stuff covers the ground.
 
FWIW, seems like a few guys are bleeding the rear with some frequency. Are you bleeding the regular way, or reverse bleeding? Because I reverse bleed, did it once a year ago, and haven't needed to do it again. Of course, you should replace your brake fluid when it gets old, I'm just saying that no sponginess has returned in a year.

I use the Griots Garage tool, but the EZE is cheaper and looks like it would work OK.
 
azccj said:
About a month ago I moved the rear brake master cylinder reservoir to the location where the charcoal canister once lived. So far :D the rear brake is as solid as when I last bled them a month ago. Only time will tell if this mod cures the problem. If nothing else it makes bleeding the rear brake a lot easier. I have a spare ABS unit that I picked up from Pinwall, but I have no plans to change out the original ABS unit unless it fails :eek: completely.
I pulled the Norge out of the garage a few days ago. The rear brake was as stiff as it was when I first moved the reservoir 6 months ago. This may be the cure to the problem.
 
Back
Top