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Norge Valve Adjustment Screw Up

H

healeyblue

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Mar 17, 2010
Messages
25
Been lurking here for awhile since buying a low mileage 2007 Norge late last year. This week I decided to do the 6250 mile service. While turning the rear wheel to find TDC, and obviously not being the sharpest tool in the shed, I stuck a pencil in the spark plug hole. You know what's coming... :oops: now I have half of the pencil broken off and resting on top of the piston.

Can anyone help me with ideas as to a possible way to remove the pencil short of removing the head? :(

Tks
 
I did the exact same thing on my Breva. I have always used a plastic straw to help find TDC. This time I found a hard acrylic straw that I thought would work great. Just as the piston came up to TDC it rolled over and busted the tip of the straw off. I tried everything I could think of, including taping a piece of fuel line to the shop vac., nope didn't work. Off came the head.

If you end up pulling the head, just remember you will need to pull the inside plug. There is a bolt under it that needs to come out. You will need a thin walled socket to get it in there. I ended up grinding down a spare socket I had laying around. All in all not that hard of a job, just a lot longer then I was planning on spending on a quick valve adjustment!

Good Luck.
 
There's a tool that is available at most tool stores that could reach in, but I'm not sure how tough it would be to fish it out. Best of luck with it.

grabbertool.jpg


I have a handful of the turned down inner-plug sockets left ->HERE<- for those who are interested.
 
Can you see the pencil piece ( using a flashlight)? If so i would get a piece of steel rod about 1/8th dia. and several inches long and grind one end to a long narrow point to stick into the end of the pencil and hopefully pull it out.
Bob
 
Thanks for the tips. Slygrin, thanks for letting me know that I have company. Doing something like this certainly makes one feel foolish. I will try probing with light and your tool suggestions. Just have the feeling that I am going to be exploring the head removal process though.

Tks again,

Roger
 
Fill the cylinder with oil through the spark plug hole, fish out the now floating pencil and then syphon out as much oil as you can. After that hold a cloth over the plug hole and crank the engine a few times to remove the excess.
 
Oh for fucks sakes. You screwed up. Pull the bloody head. It's not the biggest job in the world. If you don't feel up to attempting it then take it to a shop. Look, I'm sorry, but surely you realized what you were trying to do? It's NOT HARD but it requires common sense. NOT any sort of bonzoid mechanical knowledge, but if you are winding a plug uo a hole with something stuck in it at an angle you use something that will deform or you are very, very carefull.

I'm sorry, but if you are going to do the job? do it properly!!!

Pete
 
Yeah ya should use somethin' like a 'T' Handle ay Pete. :lol:

Gav
 
In the future use a straw and use the nut on the front of the engine to turn the engine. But before I went pulling the head I would try other methods to get the broken pencil out. The filling the cylinder with oil, as already mentioned, might work to float the pencil to wear you can grab it with something. Maybe use compressed air blown into one of the spark plug holes with both valves closed. To bad the foreign object isn't made of iron. You could just JB Weld a small magnet to a piece of string to get it out through the plug hole.
 
Lurka said:
Yeah ya should use somethin' like a 'T' Handle ay Pete. :lol:

Gav
Click to expand...

Or a screwdriver, or anything that won't break or bend so you have a devil of a time getting itn out!

Even if you use something *Solid* like a screwdriver just about the worst you can do is jam it in the plug 'ole with thetip resting on the piston and the shank crossways against the threads, (In the 2 valve engine.) Unless you are absurdly unlucky or insist on trying to keep it moving the same way there is highly unlikely to be any damage. "Oh!" You winge "What about the top of the piston?" The piston takes sudden increases in pressure of about 1000PSI 25 times a second! You think a screwdriver getting jammed against it with hand pressure for a moment is going to harm it? No, of course it should be avoided but unless you're a complete dolt and whack the motor over with the rear wheel with no regard for what you are trying to achieve the worst that will happen is you'll have a monemtarily stuck screwdriver!

Incidentally I take it you are reffering to my pic of me getting to TDC on the 8V. Well, hello Sherlock! The spark plug in the 8V motor is central and all movement is directly up or down. Much safer to use something like a 'T' bar than anything else. Make sure its clean, pop it on top of the piston at the start of the compression stroke and bob's yer uncle!!!!

Look. I'm not having a go at this bloke for having screwed up. We all do that from time to time. What shits me is the the fact that after the mistake has been made an *easy* way out is being sought. Yes, it may well be pssible to get *most* if not all of a broken pencil out of the barrel. Thing is that it is EASIER and FAR SAFER to simply pull the bloody head! Even on a Norge it's a one hour job at max. Do It ONCE do it RIGHT and LEARN from the mistake!!!!

Bollocks!!!!

Pete
 
Pete,

Thanks for the needed kick in the butt. You are right. It is far safer to remove the head. I appreciate all the ideas but I will follow the the safest route and remove the head.

Roger
 
Mate, no matter how careful you are there is always a chance that some bit of shit wil be left in there if you just go fishing about through the plug hole.

Head removal IS simple but remember that the head gaskets are ifferentially thicknessed, there are three thicknesses so wait until you have the head off before you order the parts.

As a simple break down you'll need.

Head gasket.
Rocker cover gasket
Exhaust gasket
Inlet manifold gasket
4 x o-rings for the studs that the rocker support sits on.

Also note that the head stud nuts and the shorter bolts that retain the heads have two different tyorque settings and you need a RTG to tension them correctly.

Pete
 
pete roper said:
Mate, no matter how careful you are there is always a chance that some bit of shit wil be left in there if you just go fishing about through the plug hole.

Head removal IS simple but remember that the head gaskets are ifferentially thicknessed, there are three thicknesses so wait until you have the head off before you order the parts.

As a simple break down you'll need.

Head gasket.
Rocker cover gasket
Exhaust gasket
Inlet manifold gasket
4 x o-rings for the studs that the rocker support sits on.

Also note that the head stud nuts and the shorter bolts that retain the heads have two different torque settings and you need a RTG to tension them correctly.

Pete
Click to expand...

Pete,

This may be an opportune time to re-post the correct procedure for torquing the heads of the bikes with steel head gaskets. I know it was on the old forum, but some of the data in the manuals has been superseded and if you make it a separate post in the CARC section I'll make it a "sticky".
 
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