Oil change torque figures

[Phang]

I am about to change the fats filled in Mandello del Lario a year ago, probably. Here are the figures that I have gathered from the service manual and parts catalogue.

Engine oil
Sump drain bolt (Guzzi term = Oil drainage plug/Oil unload plug)
Size – M10 X 1
Tightening torque – 20Nm (14.75 lbf ft)

Gearbox
Filler bolt (Guzzi term = Oil cap/Oil plug)
Size – M18 X 1.5
Tightening torque – 28Nm (20.65 lbf ft)

Drain bolt (Guzzi terms = Oil drainage plug/Oil unload plug)
Size – M10 X 1
Tightening torque – 24Nm (17.7 lbf ft)

CARC
Filler bolt (Guzzi term = Oil plug)
Size – M12 X 1.5
Tightening torque - ?

Drain bolt (guzzi term = Oil unload plug)
Size – M10 X 1
Tightening torque - ?

There isn’t any information on the CARC filler/drain bolt tightening torques from the service manual, the closest I have found are some figures in the technical bulletin but my common sense told me the torque figures maybe too high especially the CARC filler bolt at 35Nm.

Can anyone help shed some light on this? Thank you in advance.

Cheers,
Phang

 

[john zibell]

As you noticed, all the drain blugs are the same size. They are also a style with a rubber gasket built into them. I would use the lowesr torque figure given of 20Nm in all applications. It will be plenty. Personally I do these all by feel and never come close to stripping one, or having them too lose. A little wrench art can go a long way. As for the filler plugs, so long as they are just tight enough to not come lose that is good. These fill plugs aren't the bolts that hold the bike together.

Also look at Grahams post about removing the vent at the top of the CARC, basically don't do it. The threads are too delicate.

 

[Phang]

Thanks for the reply John.

I have new washers enough for 5 oil changes with me now. You are right, all the 3 drain bolts are the same and they share the same washer with a rubber gasket built into them too.

I will probably go by the feel when torquing up the CARC bolt/plug. I am quite comfortable in nipping up drain bolt by feel, I do that to my car as using a torque wrench is not feasible because of the ground clearance.

The service manual call for the removal of the vent when changing the CARC oil, I am quite skeptical about this. Thanks for the heads up, you probably saved me from stripping the threads and swearing bad words. :lol:

 

[john zibell]

Those gaskets Guzzi provides may be re-used several times without any problem. Just inspect the integrity. Also I know the 1100 Breva parts manual lists the wrong part number for the oil drain plug. I just use the transmission part number which is correct. I forgot to mention, a torque of 15 Nm is recommended for the oil filter.

 

[Phang]

It rains almost everyday here, I thought I should check the sizes of all the drain bolts before it turns sunny. Just in case there are in odd sizes rather than 17mm.

Holding a 17mm socket with my fingers, engine sump drain bolt, fine, 17mm.

Gearbox drain bolt, wait, I can tighten it with my fingers for 1/8 turn before it SEATED. I don’t recall any oil stain around the gearbox drain bolt when I clean the bike last week. Oh no, I could be riding the bike without gear oil in the box for the last 260km. Rushing back to my apartment, grabbed my tool box and crack open the gearbox fill bolt. Good, the familiar GL5 scent and gear tooth coated with oil.

Snug them up nicely (no torque wrench) and I thought I saw Luigi’s finger print on the bolt. This is my second lesson of “Finding Luigi’s faults” Am I an official Guzzi owner now? :lol:

I guess the rubber insert of the drain bolt washer did a very good job in sealing out the fluid even it was not tighten properly. So, any force greater than finger tight will not help in sealing the box.

Now, the CARC drain bolt. It is block by a plastic clip securing the rear brake hose and the wheel speed sensor cable so the 17mm socket will not fit. Any tips on removing this plastic bit without breaking it?

Phang

 

[john zibell]

Now, the CARC drain bolt. It is block by a plastic clip securing the rear brake hose and the wheel speed sensor cable so the 17mm socket will not fit. Any tips on removing this plastic bit without breaking it?

Phang

Just use an open end wrench and leave the clip alone. You have already seen proof they don't need to be very tight when you install.

 

[Phang]

The plastic rear brake hose holder can be removed, with sore finger tips and much patient.

It has 1 piece right next to the CARC drain bolt and the other 3 underneath the shaft housing.

A picture speaks a thousand words (I have removed 3 from the bike for illustration purposes)

Each holder consists of 2 parts. The part that mounted on the bike has a similar male stud end. As you can see, these hose holders are modular design, it can be stacked up like a LEGO.

To remove, slide the cable holder towards the rear direction of the bike. A little wiggling will help the detent on the female end clearing the male stud. Now I can use a socket on the CARC drain bolt

 

[Phang]

Changed all the oil during the weekend and here are some of my findings:-

Engine oil
The oil filter fitted by the Mandello factory has 8 flutes, the new oil filter which I got from MG Cycle has 14 flutes and both bearing the same UFI part number. So I need two different filter cup wrenches to remove and install.

Manual says 3500ml of oil with filter change. My bike only needs 3000ml to get to the ¾ mark between low and high on the dipstick. I drained the oil on a bike stand while the engine is hot, pre-filled the oil filter before I install it and verified the oil level twice after two 120km rides. Did I miss a second drain bolt?

Drain bolt tighten to 20Nm, no drama.

Gearbox
500ml went in to the box and the oil level was ½ to 1 cm below the lower lip of the filler hole. I guess it is normal from what I read here.
Filler bolt tighten to 28Nm and drain bolt tighten to 24Nm, nothing broken.

CARC
Managed to squeeze in 280ml of fresh GL5 with the last few threads at the bottom of the filler hole submerged in oil. No worries.

As the size of the CARC drain bolt is the same as the engine oil drain bolt, I use the same 20Nm to tighten it.

Since the tightening torque figure of the filler bolt is not found in the manual, I have done a little unscientific reverse engineering. With new copper sealing washer, my digital torque wrench reads 17Nm when the witness mark was aligned.