• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oil cooler leak.

Penis Rotor

GT Godfather!
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
2,833
Location
Bungendore, NSW Australia
No need to pee your pants. Mine just developed a leak at 50,000Km. No failure, fixed for next to nothing. C&P because its easy for me and I'm a lazy turd!

Remember the early Grisos had a problem with the louvres warping on the outside of the radiator element? Well it seems that the way that was fixed was by adding a couple of plastic 'Tongues'to te top and bottom louvres so they are less inclined to warp upwards/downwards.

Problem is that these 'Tongues' go between the top and bottom of the radiator and the 'Surround' and on my bike in the 30,000 miles of hard riding on all sorts of roads from Freeway to single track dirt the louvre has beenable to vibrate enough to slowly errode the base of the radiator! This may well be an issue specific to my bike but since mine is probably one of the higher mile Grisos out there it might be worth checking for anyone with five minutes on their hands.

The Louvre is held on by 4 screws. Just undo them and tug the louvre off. If it is held tight at either the top or the bottom by the tonges on the louvre I'd suggest simply cutting the 'Tongues' off. OK the top and bottom runs may then warp but to my mind that's better than wearing a hole in the oil cooler radiator.

Anyway, I took it in to my local radiator shop this arvo and it'll be ready tomorrow after they've re-soldered it. Cost? Probably a sixpack or $20. Damn sight cheaper than a new rad! They retail here at $432!!! Incidentally the rad is made by KTM. It sez so on the top!

Bottom 'Tongues' where they have been rubbing between the cooler and the housing.

5774299797_5eae73e3a8_b.jpg


Damage to cooler. This is where the radiator was leaking.

5774293771_4abaa4a2c7_b.jpg


Slightly better one of the louvre and the wear on the 'Tongues'.

5774310135_12b57d376e_b.jpg


As I said, no big drama, no 'Catastrophic Failure' just a leak that took five minutes to find and $20 to fix.

I award myself 'Elephant Stamp and Gold Star' with bar! Or at the very least a beer!

Pete
 
Holy fuck Pete! What the hell is that beige wrinkly thing holding the louvre? looks like a rolled back foreskin!
Quality post tho`. Will look at mine in the morning.
 
Pete, upon the second reading of your post, I think the oil cooler rubber bushings lost their shapes over time and caused the oil cooler to “sit” on the bottom plastic tongues. The loosed rubber bushings also allow the oil cooler to vibrate more than usual and wore a hole at the spots it sat on the tongues.

Phang
 
Back
Top