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Oil leak at the breather drain line into the block

Sahms

Sahms

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
116
Location
Knoxvegas, TN
Kim's V7 has been marking its spot since we got it. When I did the clutch I "thought" I had sealed up the breather drain line sufficently. This is the rigid line that ends in a banjo fitting below the rear main bearing flange.

The leaking persisted, so I pulled it apart this week. Siting on the bench, oil slowly oozes out around the lower crush washer. I wouldn't think the oil level was high enough to leak here when the bike is parked, but it is.

There must be a surface defect on the mating surface of the block, or on the lower surface of that banjo-like fitting. I have a spare pipe, so that's no worry. But how to smooth out the block surface to get a good seal? It seems the new crush washers I am getting have a smaller OD that the originals, which can't help.

Pictures tomorrow.
 
Fred,

Replacing the banjo is a good start. The trick will be to get a square/flush surface on the block. Since you have a threaded hole, start with a bolt of threaded rod of that diameter and pitch. Next find a round bid of steel and get the outer diameter the same as the block surface, and the inner hole the same diameter as the bolt/rod. I'd try something like valve grinding compound, or even a milder paste abrasive, between the steel piece and the block. Rotate until you get a clean mating all the way around. I wouldn't use much pressure or speed since the grinding compound will make quick work of the alloy.
 
I used a black sharpie as cheap prussian blue to ID the high spots on the mating surface on the block where the drain line bolts on. Then I used a reinforced Dremel cut-off wheel ground to the correct OD to smooth the surface like an end-mill (plugged off the hole into the sump first) and it seems to work fine.

It looked like someone super-glued the banjo on there at one time, and some little bits of glue were still adhered, unevenly of course.

New crush washers and I think it's good to go.
 
Sahms said:
I used a black sharpie as cheap prussian blue to ID the high spots on the mating surface on the block where the drain line bolts on. Then I used a reinforced Dremel cut-off wheel ground to the correct OD to smooth the surface like an end-mill (plugged off the hole into the sump first) and it seems to work fine.

It looked like someone super-glued the banjo on there at one time, and some little bits of glue were still adhered, unevenly of course.

New crush washers and I think it's good to go.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it. Let us know if it is successful.
 
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