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Oil leak help

abbienormal

High Miler
GT Famiglia
Joined
Nov 29, 2008
Messages
899
Location
Niles, OH
I am currently in North West VA and my Norge is weeping oil out the left side. I suspect the oil sending switch. Any chance of it failing big time or will it continue to weep? I have a day and a half and and about 500 miles to go.
 
Maybe someone will chime in who can help, but... do you have any tools? Seems to me if it's something that might be rattling loose, it "could" vibrate to a worse place over 500 miles. Any way to get a look at the source?
 
On a 2012 Norge it would require fuel tank removal plus Moe just to see the sensor. I just ride another 60 miles and just a little drip at stop and so far I can't see it lowering on the stick. The left cylinder and the left side of the oil pan are pretty well oiled down but so far ok. Just stopped at Aotozone and bought a quart of 20-50 Lucas oil and a funnel just in case.
 
You should be fine to run it home. Just keep an eye out for the oil pressure warning, but I doubt it will go on. A small amount of oil will look like a big mess.
 
Could also be the phase sensor which is right next to the oil pressure switch - this is sealed with o rings. Either way, tank off, airbox out to look at it. Just makes a bit of a mess in the V of the engine. Solution is simple once you are in there, though
 
Made it home. I could not even see it moved on the dipstick but oil all over the front left of thew engine but just little drops on the ground. I am suspecting oil pressure switch as twice I saw a quick blip of the red warning light though the phase sensor may also do that but not if the o-rings are leaking. Start looking at it tomorrow. I may have to clean it off then start it up and run it a bit to see for sure,
THanks for the help.
 
Glad you are home and can sort out the mystery. Let us know what you find.

Not sure where you were in "North West VA," but Winchester Motorsports in Winchester has a very competent and responsive Guzzi service shop. On days they aren't open, my "Moto Grappa" in Cross Junction is. No skilled tech there ;), but I do have a trailer, lift, and most tools necessary for "depot level" maintenance and repairs. :)

Bill
404.eightzeroeight.8486
wrhagan AT earthlink.net
 
Thanks for the offer Bill and I actually thought about your experience with that particular problem. I was actually at Burke's Garden when I first smelled and saw the oil. I'll post what I find.
 
Well I tore into it today and fortunately on my 2012 I can get a 21mm socket on the switch and just take it out. Mine has a connector on it instead of just the spade and the inside was filled with oil. As was the center of the V of my engine. Now I have to find and equivalent or just buy an original. I have a problem paying $30+ for something that failed in 7,000 miles when car units cost $8 and are the same.
 

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Not necessarily the same Rudy - it's all about the pressure of the oil.

Interestingly, I did the 90,000 km service on mine a few weeks back, and I have already replaced the OP sensor before and was still occasionally getting the error. Found the connector on top of the OP sensor screws in and was loose. Removed it, found a screw that matches (weird thread, not metric) and used a 1/4" quick connect tag (available from all good auto electrical stores) and screwed it in tight. No issue since, but it's early days yet...
 
Tony, In my experience idiot light sensors are a pressure/no pressure indicator. The ones I've had occasion to check say pressure is present at about 5 psi. I call them idiot lights because by the time they come on, it is too late to do anything about it, damage has already been done.
 
I some how messed up and posted this under another thread so here it is again. Sorry for hijacking the other post.
Here is my report. I tore it apart on a Saturday so Sunday I was limited to the major chains for parts. I got some part numbers of likely candidates from pictures of oil pressure sensors on Amazon. I then went to Pep Boys. They had a BWD (Borg Warner) S4065 unit that looked the same except the hex on it is 24mm instead of 21mm like original. For $13 I gave it a shot. It went right on other than my 24mm socket would not go over the connector. A deep well 15/16" worked fine. Near as I can tell it is much easier to reach the sensor on the 12 than the 2V engines. I posted some photos to show the ease of access and to make Bill mad at them for not doing it earlier. :)
Now for the irony of it all. The Borg Warner unit was made in Italy!
 

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Is there anything on the Borg Warner unit that confirms it has the same pressure range as the original Guzzi one?
I'd be happy to pay $30 and sleep well at night.
 
Nothing to confirm the same pressure. As John states above these things just warn you that you have no pressure. Maybe this one uses a higher or lower cutoff point but if the light comes on you have problems. Knowing the failure rate of the stock switch I will take the chance this one will hold up longer. Maybe not. The original had BD stamped on it on one side and 978854 which is the Guzzi number on the other. So it could be the same manufacturer. Of course if you look up that number on AF1's site it comes up with an older switch which is now replaced with one that needs an adapter. By the photo it isn't even correct for my bike but it is the number listed on the parts page. It is the single spade connector.
 
In answer to the question of the pressure settings on my Borg Warner (BW) switch I have done some research. I could not find a listing of the pressure settings for the BW switch but I found a cross reference site at Wells Vehicle Electronics. Cross referencing my BW S4065 to a Wells PS366 the pressures listed are 2.9-7.25psi. The OEM switch is listed at 2.92-7.28psi. Close enough for the girls I hang out with.
 
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