• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself version

sign216

sign216

High Miler
Joined
Jun 14, 2009
Messages
855
Location
Eastern, Massachusetts
A Guzzitech member asked about my oxygen sensor modification, so I'm posting it here.

It's a do it yourself (DIY) version of the FatDuc, Memject, PowerFRK, and other "resistor tuners" that dampen the signal from the oxygen sensor to enrich the air fuel mixture.

It really helped my idle and low rpm running, but that could have been because poor injectors were already making it too lean.

The DIY guide is here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/sets/72157629649665070/with/7164288146/

Joe
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Joe, this is for the 15RC ECU (750 small blocks), yes? Thanks for posting it here.

If so, it will not work on the newer 5AM ECU, just FYI to those reading this.
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

I made it for the smallblock, but it will work on any bike with an O2 sensor that has 4 way Superseal connectors.

And if your bike has different connectors, just get different connectors.
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Excellent How to with great pics.... WELL DONE...
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Thanks for the praise Sempervee. The currency of internet forums is the accolades of others.
The project was less hard work, and more careful thought and preparation.

Some have suggested sourcing the connectors from a salvage yard. If you can do that it would eliminate having to build the connectors from scratch, but then again you've got the trouble of finding the connectors.

Joe
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

sign216 said:
I made it for the smallblock, but it will work on any bike with an O2 sensor that has 4 way Superseal connectors.
Click to expand...
Well I've ratted through the shed and dug up a power diode from a rectification project on my T3 and it restricted the through voltage by 0.29-0.31volts and pulled the pin out of the connecter and done a temporary hook up. Took it for a short run up to the apple orchard through town and it ran smooth as B) B)
When I fired it up cold it settled straight into a steady idle and didn't stall as is normal. Thru town there was no hint of snatching, you little bewdy ;) ;) ;)
Pipe looked ok, Just need to check for over fuelling over the next couple of days :whistle:

Got a run with the MGCOV on the W/E so that should tell all.
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Have in mind that things may go out of tune in different climate conditions.
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Thanks Mika. If it proves too rich for the summer months I have in mind to put a simple bar mounted switch to turn it on or off as required. I have in mind also to try a slightly lower voltage diode if and when I can locate one. My bike has been sensitive to cold starts since the beginning and annoying to ride in low speed traffic, fortunately I live in the country so not too much of a problem.

Sign216.. Great :idea: :idea: This works a treat so far, I'll bite the bullet and get hold of the correct connector if it proves to be a simple long term solution.....Thanks a heap for the heads up on this. :) :)
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

This a very crude mod for the long run.
I suppose the ECU needs to look at the lambda sensor along the other climate sensors to decide the "point zero" at lambda=1 when cruising in order to calculate the proper offset for the open loop region (heavy throttle and when accelerating).
Wrong "point zero" means constantly wrong mixture that can result in lambda sensor contamination, catalyst premature wear or even premature ring-cylinder wear (but in such extreme you would notice the engine running too rich).
Lack of right "point zero" means mixture good for a narrow climate envelope but not for the whole range of climate, gasoline quality and engine overall condition as mileage accumulates.
I think this is one of Todds areas of research for the modded ECU he sells, not just the modded maps but manipulation of open-closed loop region offsets.
 
Re: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Modification - do it yourself ver

Contractor, thanks for the kind words. A mail order electronics store is the best place to get another diode. You want one for 1 to 3 amps, with a small forward voltage loss (less than 0.4 volt).

Regarding different climates, you might be confusing the Lambda sensor mod with the engine temp sensor mod. Some people have done a similar modification on the engine temp sensor. This makes the air-fuel mix richer, by making the engine control unit (ECU) think it's colder outside than it really is. MGNOC newsletter had a good article on this approx two years ago.

Right now I'm playing with a MyECU unit, but when I run the factory ECU I use the diode Lambda sensor mod, and haven't had any long term problems. Spark plugs show a fine mixture. Running a "standard" diode with approx. 0.7 voltage loss could put things on the rich side, but I don't know because I've never done it.
Let me know how what you find out.

Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top