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PC-V, AT300 & 7SM Flash...Rideability comes to the Big Block

Touringman

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
May 2, 2014
Messages
162
Location
Red Oak TX
I have to admit, I was concerned when I dropped the 20+ large for my Cali 1400 Touring. See, I'm not really a cruiser guy; despite the fact that I have owned two HD's over the years. What my head likes is power. Yessss, that mystical mix of horse power, torque, chassis dynamics and gearing that can at the same time, thrill, and scare the ever loving crap out of you. I'm an addict and I love every minute of it.
But... I'm not getting any younger, and neither is the Pillion Princess. We have been together almost 37 years and while she was NOT happy when I brought the first bike home years ago, now she gets pissed if I go riding without her. Sadly, age had turned the tours on the GSF 1250s painful for both of us, but especially, for the Pillion Princess. Folded up on the back, was no longer her happy place.
A change was needed. So with all the requisite research, test rides, lurking on Guzzi forums etc. We walked into RPM cycle in Dallas and took a black Cali 1400T home.
I liked the Cali, I didn't love it initially, but I did like it. Decent power, comfortable ergonomics, nice predictable handling, (despite the evil OEM Dunlops), and certainly no more engine heat than your average Hardley Rideable. But something was missing...at least it seemed so to me.
Even in Veloche mode the bike felt like it was struggling and seemed...perhaps...sluggish and just not "right".
I then stumbled onto GuzziTech. Which is where I first realized that the 16:1 light throttle air/fuel ratio was where the real issue with the bike lay. No wonder it felt "wrong".
So with the upcoming 6000 mile service near due, I contacted Todd and ordered his engine magic package with the full reflash of the ECU, the Dynojet PC-v, and the dual o2 sensor AT300 system all working together as one.
After installing the package and putting several hundred miles on the bike here are my thoughts on this amazing piece of engineering.
INSTALLATION- It looks like, once I opened the box, a spaghetti nightmare...wires everywhere! In reality, once everything is laid out in some sort of order it is not that bad at all. Anyone with some moderate mechanical skills can do this. I took a long afternoon to get all set in place, and then tidied it all up the next morning. This while downing several Rahr and Son's, Iron Thistle Scottish Ales.
STARTUP- Very much like stock. Except that the engine settles into a somewhat smoother and slightly faster idle, perhaps 1350-1400 rpm cold. If I hadn't been intentionally paying attention, I might never have noticed the difference. It is that subtle. As the engine warms the idle does drop back some...I still say the engine idles smoother regardless of the rpm.
PULLING AWAY- Niiice! The snatchiness and abrupt on/off throttle are gone. Smooth power take up from a walking speed on up. I'm no longer concerned about dropping the bike, because the power hic-ups are long gone.
UP THROUGH THE GEARS- Again, much like bone stock, except now the RPM doesn't fall like a stone when the clutch is pulled in, it seems to fall more slowly. This allows the next gear to pickup where the other left off...not 3-500 rpm below like stock. OK, it's not exactly like that but it is smoother and at the same time a more urgent shift. Down shifting is also a pleasure, matching gears is much more intuitive, and less of a chore.
ENGINE HEAT- Ummmm. This is still an air/oil cooled 1.4 liter twin...it still produces heat commensurate with it's size. That said, I ride in Texas mostly and the air temp on my way home today was 94* F. I may have a better idea of the actual engine heat output once it cools off here later in the year. Note: the proper 13.7:1 air/fuel ratio WILL cool the combustion chamber temperatures somewhat, and that will prevent nasty engine damage over time. And the Cali 1400 still produces no more heat than a HD.
SUM OF THE PARTS- First I want to thank Todd for taking the time to get this modification right. His dedication, sleepless nights, and refusal to compromise have made the Cali 1400 what the factory wanted, but the politicians wouldn't allow.
The bike now does nearly everything better than it did. It is faster, runs smoother, shifts smoother, pulls harder and is happier all over the RPM range than in stock form. Especially from 3000 rpm up. Modulation of the throttle through sweeping corners is magical. The change is simply amazing. And to top it off, the whole setup is completely forgettable. That is, it works so smoothly and subtly, you completely forget it's there.
I tend to ride in Veloche, two up most all the time. I did add the opened air box lid and the BMG filter. I am still running the stock muffs, at least for now. I can't imagine how good this will be once I get the exhaust opened up...I love my Cali now!!
Now...about that suspension...
 
Nice. How'd you do the TPS reset after installation?

There are instructions included on how to set it with the Dynojet website. Hook up the included cable between the PC-V and a laptop. Follow the instructions; takes about a minute. It probably is better to set with a Centurion or the newer Alaris unit, but it worked and if it's not right I can't tell. If I remember correctly my reading were .764 on the "Closed" throttle side and 3.9x on the fully open side. I saved it and it works.
 
So what your saying is that we "don't" have to have the Centurion or new Alaris software to reset the TPS? My dealer wants 2 hours to reset it and I would rather invest that in the software but if I don't need it that would be great. The new Alaris is all I have been waiting for because I thought I needed it.
 
Tell your dealer he is full of S@#T....I have the Centurion it takes 5 minues......that includes setup and return of laptop equipment.
but that is the problem with some of these Guzzi dealers...If you get an honest and knowledgeable one your fortunate... Maybe there is a local MG rider close to you that's has the Centurion package.
 
I'm not a Cali owner, I don't know if it is different than what I know, but the TPS setting in the Dynojet PCV widget is just specific to the PCV. It has nothing to do with the TPS setting in the ECU of the bike. It has to be done to teach the PCV the range of the throttle signal.
 
Soooo, Touringman, did you reset the bikes TPS or did you teach the PCV the range like GuzziMoto says? Because per Todd in an e-mail he sent me "Are you far from a dealer? The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) must be reset when you re-install the ECU."
 
I'm not a Cali owner, I don't know if it is different than what I know, but the TPS setting in the Dynojet PCV widget is just specific to the PCV. It has nothing to do with the TPS setting in the ECU of the bike. It has to be done to teach the PCV the range of the throttle signal.

Hmmm....interesting. That's not how I read it, but I could have mis interpreted what it was trying to tell me. Curious, I rode about 230 miles yesterday and it "seemed" to perform flawlessly and above expectations...?
That Said...I still want an Alaris to be certain every thing is as it should be.
 
Soooo, Touringman, did you reset the bikes TPS or did you teach the PCV the range like GuzziMoto says? Because per Todd in an e-mail he sent me "Are you far from a dealer? The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) must be reset when you re-install the ECU."

Good question Clayton....good question.
An electronics guy I ain't...but if I only set the PC-v why did the bike run so well yesterday. The throttle is seamless with the engines response...am I running only on the PC-v ???
 
Sure... The ECU TPS reset is independent of the PC-V Min/Max Throttle position; Both should be checked/reset. There is a 50/50 chance the ECU TPS would be OK when plugged back in, post re-flash... or perhaps a multiple key on/off sequence handles it on the 7SM, but I have yet to confirm it. If it is out of range, you will get a SERVICE indicator on the dash, and/or it likely won't start, run or idle.

I have been doing all I can to get an update on Alaris... but much like the movie 'Money Pit' - two weeks is all I keep hearing since January. As of last week, they told me they are VERY close, and that the target pricing is similar to Centurion, and they've added Bluetooth connectivity. I'll post info the minute I have it.
 
I have to admit, I was concerned when I dropped the 20+ large for my Cali 1400 Touring. See, I'm not really a cruiser guy; despite the fact that I have owned two HD's over the years. What my head likes is power. Yessss, that mystical mix of horse power, torque, chassis dynamics and gearing that can at the same time, thrill, and scare the ever loving crap out of you. I'm an addict and I love every minute of it.
But... I'm not getting any younger, and neither is the Pillion Princess. We have been together almost 37 years and while she was NOT happy when I brought the first bike home years ago, now she gets pissed if I go riding without her. Sadly, age had turned the tours on the GSF 1250s painful for both of us, but especially, for the Pillion Princess. Folded up on the back, was no longer her happy place.
A change was needed. So with all the requisite research, test rides, lurking on Guzzi forums etc. We walked into RPM cycle in Dallas and took a black Cali 1400T home.
I liked the Cali, I didn't love it initially, but I did like it. Decent power, comfortable ergonomics, nice predictable handling, (despite the evil OEM Dunlops), and certainly no more engine heat than your average Hardley Rideable. But something was missing...at least it seemed so to me.
Even in Veloche mode the bike felt like it was struggling and seemed...perhaps...sluggish and just not "right".
I then stumbled onto GuzziTech. Which is where I first realized that the 16:1 light throttle air/fuel ratio was where the real issue with the bike lay. No wonder it felt "wrong".
So with the upcoming 6000 mile service near due, I contacted Todd and ordered his engine magic package with the full reflash of the ECU, the Dynojet PC-v, and the dual o2 sensor AT300 system all working together as one.
After installing the package and putting several hundred miles on the bike here are my thoughts on this amazing piece of engineering.
INSTALLATION- It looks like, once I opened the box, a spaghetti nightmare...wires everywhere! In reality, once everything is laid out in some sort of order it is not that bad at all. Anyone with some moderate mechanical skills can do this. I took a long afternoon to get all set in place, and then tidied it all up the next morning. This while downing several Rahr and Son's, Iron Thistle Scottish Ales.
STARTUP- Very much like stock. Except that the engine settles into a somewhat smoother and slightly faster idle, perhaps 1350-1400 rpm cold. If I hadn't been intentionally paying attention, I might never have noticed the difference. It is that subtle. As the engine warms the idle does drop back some...I still say the engine idles smoother regardless of the rpm.
PULLING AWAY- Niiice! The snatchiness and abrupt on/off throttle are gone. Smooth power take up from a walking speed on up. I'm no longer concerned about dropping the bike, because the power hic-ups are long gone.
UP THROUGH THE GEARS- Again, much like bone stock, except now the RPM doesn't fall like a stone when the clutch is pulled in, it seems to fall more slowly. This allows the next gear to pickup where the other left off...not 3-500 rpm below like stock. OK, it's not exactly like that but it is smoother and at the same time a more urgent shift. Down shifting is also a pleasure, matching gears is much more intuitive, and less of a chore.
ENGINE HEAT- Ummmm. This is still an air/oil cooled 1.4 liter twin...it still produces heat commensurate with it's size. That said, I ride in Texas mostly and the air temp on my way home today was 94* F. I may have a better idea of the actual engine heat output once it cools off here later in the year. Note: the proper 13.7:1 air/fuel ratio WILL cool the combustion chamber temperatures somewhat, and that will prevent nasty engine damage over time. And the Cali 1400 still produces no more heat than a HD.
SUM OF THE PARTS- First I want to thank Todd for taking the time to get this modification right. His dedication, sleepless nights, and refusal to compromise have made the Cali 1400 what the factory wanted, but the politicians wouldn't allow.
The bike now does nearly everything better than it did. It is faster, runs smoother, shifts smoother, pulls harder and is happier all over the RPM range than in stock form. Especially from 3000 rpm up. Modulation of the throttle through sweeping corners is magical. The change is simply amazing. And to top it off, the whole setup is completely forgettable. That is, it works so smoothly and subtly, you completely forget it's there.
I tend to ride in Veloche, two up most all the time. I did add the opened air box lid and the BMG filter. I am still running the stock muffs, at least for now. I can't imagine how good this will be once I get the exhaust opened up...I love my Cali now!!
Now...about that suspension...

Nice writeup Touringman! However, I don't think your bike was running right when it was stock. Mine has a very smooth throttle from off/on. My Triumph America does have the problem you describe exactly (My dealer says it is norman!) so I know what you are talking about. My Triumph has a power hic-up as well, but NOT my 1400T. I must admit though that I ride mostly in Tourismo which might account for the difference.
 
To reset my service indicator light and download the latest maps last year my dealer hit me fo 3/4 hour. You could arrive with the batery cover only held on with the two allan screws maybe to save him 1/2 hour looking for his #2 phillips!
 
I'm just gonna wait on the Alaris software and do it myself. It wouldn't hurt to have it specially since if my cali continues to do well I may look for a Adoce' next year to park next to it. I wonder if the new software will reset the service light?
 
I'm just gonna wait on the Alaris software and do it myself. It wouldn't hurt to have it specially since if my cali continues to do well I may look for a Adoce' next year to park next to it. I wonder if the new software will reset the service light?

That would be my number one question. I bought the Centurion for that purpose only to find it won't.
 
I just had my first service done and there was also a software update included.

I complained about the lean condition and the dealer agreed. I haven't ridden it a lot yet but it seems better than before at part throttle below 3000 RPM.

I've never had any issue with difficult starting and my throttle transition isn't overly abrupt. There has been part throttle lean surging between 2500 and 3000.
 
I have had the second service done. I asked the dealership if a new ECU flash for fueling was available and the answer was no, out-right lied to me. I do find the throttle response a little rough around 22 to 23 hundred RPMs no matter what gear. I have also thought that at low speed I have to work the clutch a little too much.
 
I just had my first service done and there was also a software update included.

I complained about the lean condition and the dealer agreed. I haven't ridden it a lot yet but it seems better than before at part throttle below 3000 RPM.

I've never had any issue with difficult starting and my throttle transition isn't overly abrupt. There has been part throttle lean surging between 2500 and 3000.

Buz, I had a lean surge at a light throttle position on my old Cummins Dodge 3/4 ton for years. The dealer was completely baffled (and disinterested). Finally I found 3 letters in the Turbo Diesel Registry (a magazine devoted to that truck) describing the problem and a solution--bad ground on the throttle position sensor. Took it to an independent shop and they ran a new ground. Then it ran better than new!
 
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