kingfisher7697
Just got it firing!
Purchased a 2008 Cal. Vintage about a month ago and just completed my first full "Service/Tune-up. I do my own wrenching on my toys. I do not consider myself A1 Tech. But I do understand the first law of Mechanical Engineering - Left to loosen - Right to tighten.
I am not sure if the bike was set-up to run "super lean" at the factory or in order to meet EU/US emission control regs? However, this bike was running on a very lean fuel/air mix as indicated by the ashy apperance on the spark plugs. This 1100 CC model has two plugs per piston. Also, the intermitant backfiring when downshifting or rolling off the throttle also is a good indication the engine is starving for more fuel. The bike's throttle response was "Jerky" and shifting was "loud" and engine braking was severe. No wonder the guy sold her in less than a year of ownership. This bike's engine performance was crap!
The Fix: In order to access the bikes air/fuel filters and be able to replace the "inside" spark plugs the fuel tank must be removed. With the fuel tank removed I also gained access to the "air temp" sensor. And the crazy Fuel Tank Gas Vapor recovery system. Also removed and and cleaned the fuel injectors - My first thought about the lean fuel mix was maybe the injectors were dirty - but that was not the case - they both misted fuel just fine when tested before cleaning. After, completing a base line engine tune-up the bike's engine performance was still off - So off with the tank yet again...
It is not a simple task to get more fuel into a modern motorcycle engine due to the ECU- but it can be done. Most fixes require fuel management software and a follow-up on a Dyno-tester to insure the mapping improved performance. However, the impute from the Air Temp Sensor can be fooled into thinking it is colder outside than it actually is - thus tricking the bike's ECU to add more fuel. The Key is to add more fuel across the RPM range.
I had done some investigating and came across a product that claimed to address my "Lean" running cycle called BOOSTER PLUG. Just under $170.00 verus around $400 to $500 for a POWER COMMANDER type device. I installed the Booster Plug and the rest is history. First, the idle went from a choppy 600 Rpm's to a Smooth 900 Rpm's - result - did not have feather the clutch as much during starts from a dead stop. Second, No more Jerky throttle response, again the motor Smoothed Out - also the loud clanking from shifting was also reduced. Third, and most important the backfiring stopped! Even the bikes vibrations seems to fall off at all speeds. The bike is now running right and tight!!!
Basically, the Booster Plug will cause the ECU to add 6% more fuel across the RPM range. Ya can get all their data from Booster Plugs Web Page. ( Sorry, I am an Old Guy so I don't know how to do a link. ) No, I am not a spoke person for BP nor do I purchase memory improvement/or veggie pills from FOX News. But, I'll be damm - the Booster Plug cured ALL my bikes engine performance issues.
Please advise if you have any questions or concerns.
R. Wysocki
I am not sure if the bike was set-up to run "super lean" at the factory or in order to meet EU/US emission control regs? However, this bike was running on a very lean fuel/air mix as indicated by the ashy apperance on the spark plugs. This 1100 CC model has two plugs per piston. Also, the intermitant backfiring when downshifting or rolling off the throttle also is a good indication the engine is starving for more fuel. The bike's throttle response was "Jerky" and shifting was "loud" and engine braking was severe. No wonder the guy sold her in less than a year of ownership. This bike's engine performance was crap!
The Fix: In order to access the bikes air/fuel filters and be able to replace the "inside" spark plugs the fuel tank must be removed. With the fuel tank removed I also gained access to the "air temp" sensor. And the crazy Fuel Tank Gas Vapor recovery system. Also removed and and cleaned the fuel injectors - My first thought about the lean fuel mix was maybe the injectors were dirty - but that was not the case - they both misted fuel just fine when tested before cleaning. After, completing a base line engine tune-up the bike's engine performance was still off - So off with the tank yet again...
It is not a simple task to get more fuel into a modern motorcycle engine due to the ECU- but it can be done. Most fixes require fuel management software and a follow-up on a Dyno-tester to insure the mapping improved performance. However, the impute from the Air Temp Sensor can be fooled into thinking it is colder outside than it actually is - thus tricking the bike's ECU to add more fuel. The Key is to add more fuel across the RPM range.
I had done some investigating and came across a product that claimed to address my "Lean" running cycle called BOOSTER PLUG. Just under $170.00 verus around $400 to $500 for a POWER COMMANDER type device. I installed the Booster Plug and the rest is history. First, the idle went from a choppy 600 Rpm's to a Smooth 900 Rpm's - result - did not have feather the clutch as much during starts from a dead stop. Second, No more Jerky throttle response, again the motor Smoothed Out - also the loud clanking from shifting was also reduced. Third, and most important the backfiring stopped! Even the bikes vibrations seems to fall off at all speeds. The bike is now running right and tight!!!
Basically, the Booster Plug will cause the ECU to add 6% more fuel across the RPM range. Ya can get all their data from Booster Plugs Web Page. ( Sorry, I am an Old Guy so I don't know how to do a link. ) No, I am not a spoke person for BP nor do I purchase memory improvement/or veggie pills from FOX News. But, I'll be damm - the Booster Plug cured ALL my bikes engine performance issues.
Please advise if you have any questions or concerns.
R. Wysocki
