I've lurked for a few days and have some questions. All the posts about the rear shock, is there a problem? Do all the fairing pieces have to come off to take the tank off? Some of my research came across talk of resetting the tps to 4.7 and having the throttle bodies sync'd. These comments were from an owner of a 2007 Norge, are these issues valid for 2008 also? Once the first service is done I'd probably do my own fluid changes but it seems 10w-60 oil is not readily available just anywhere, so what do most of you do? Where are the drain and fill for the transmission?, I assume the transmission is seperate from the motor oil.
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Questions
- Thread starter motobob
- Start date
Firstly - welcome!!!! Well seeing as your online and all the others are blowin zeds, I'll start you off, others will have to fill in the details when they get out of bed! 
All the posts about the rear shock, is there a problem? No, but the bike's handling is vastly improved by an aftermarket shock - In Aus there was a heavier spring option and I think it is now standard, lots of inmates complain about the Norge centre stand scraping, 2up the OEM shock is quite inadequate especially with luggage or if you are a hard punter in the twisties you will probably be knocking at Todd's door ASAP for a replacement, but it is not a "a problem", of course that depends on your defenition of problem.
Do all the fairing pieces have to come off to take the tank off? No Idea, don't own a Norge.
Some of my research came across talk of resetting the tps to 4.7 and having the throttle bodies sync'd. These comments were from an owner of a 2007 Norge, are these issues valid for 2008 also? Yes absolutely, a good service by a knowledgeable mechanic with access to an Axone or VDSTS software to set the TPS and sync the TB's is essential and will prevent lotsa haor tearing. Emphasis is on "knowledgeable" - not all have the knowledge when it comes to the later Guzzi's.
Once the first service is done I'd probably do my own fluid changes but it seems 10w-60 oil is not readily available just anywhere, so what do most of you do? Motorex 10W60 is readily available - I use Penrite Sin10 but is is an Aussie oil not readily available everywhere OS.
Where are the drain and fill for the transmission? By transmission I am assuming you mean the gear box on the motor not the CARC - if so fill is on the side just above the gear lever and drain is underneath, have a gander in the owners manual for a pic.
I assume the transmission is seperate from the motor oil Yes.
Happy Norging!
All the posts about the rear shock, is there a problem? No, but the bike's handling is vastly improved by an aftermarket shock - In Aus there was a heavier spring option and I think it is now standard, lots of inmates complain about the Norge centre stand scraping, 2up the OEM shock is quite inadequate especially with luggage or if you are a hard punter in the twisties you will probably be knocking at Todd's door ASAP for a replacement, but it is not a "a problem", of course that depends on your defenition of problem.
Do all the fairing pieces have to come off to take the tank off? No Idea, don't own a Norge.
Some of my research came across talk of resetting the tps to 4.7 and having the throttle bodies sync'd. These comments were from an owner of a 2007 Norge, are these issues valid for 2008 also? Yes absolutely, a good service by a knowledgeable mechanic with access to an Axone or VDSTS software to set the TPS and sync the TB's is essential and will prevent lotsa haor tearing. Emphasis is on "knowledgeable" - not all have the knowledge when it comes to the later Guzzi's.
Once the first service is done I'd probably do my own fluid changes but it seems 10w-60 oil is not readily available just anywhere, so what do most of you do? Motorex 10W60 is readily available - I use Penrite Sin10 but is is an Aussie oil not readily available everywhere OS.
Where are the drain and fill for the transmission? By transmission I am assuming you mean the gear box on the motor not the CARC - if so fill is on the side just above the gear lever and drain is underneath, have a gander in the owners manual for a pic.
I assume the transmission is seperate from the motor oil Yes.
Happy Norging!
guzzibob
GT Reference
No, you do not have to take the side fairing pieces off to remove the Norge tank.
Like Mike says, the Norge rear shock as it comes is pretty freeway soft. How you feel about it depends on whether you have the early or late spring, & any '08, most '07's will have the late spring, how much you weigh, whether or not you ride 2 up, where & how hard you ride. As a rule of thumb, if you weigh much over 170 or carry a passenger, unless you are a very tame rider living in the land of few corners, you will likely want to upgrade. Plenty of posts about the details of it all. Also like Mike says, Motorex very available at many mail order places, if not locally. A complete non-issue, really.
Like Mike says, the Norge rear shock as it comes is pretty freeway soft. How you feel about it depends on whether you have the early or late spring, & any '08, most '07's will have the late spring, how much you weigh, whether or not you ride 2 up, where & how hard you ride. As a rule of thumb, if you weigh much over 170 or carry a passenger, unless you are a very tame rider living in the land of few corners, you will likely want to upgrade. Plenty of posts about the details of it all. Also like Mike says, Motorex very available at many mail order places, if not locally. A complete non-issue, really.
Thanks for the replys. I did a quick look through the owners manual and didn't see that I will have to look more closely. As the oil goes, yes no problem finding it online, I was trying to find a retailer close to where I live and that seems to be proving a little more difficult. I may just have to start calling shops directly. I could always buy from the moto-guzzi dealer, I am just assuming they will be expensive could be wrong though.
Bob
Bob
I did a check again of the owners manual, anything to do with the gearbox is to be dealt with by Moto-Guzzi dealer so the manual says. I'll be getting a workshop manual for sure. RJVB what oil are you using. I used mobil 1 20w-50 synthetic in my buell for the ten years I owned it and never had any problems. I had actually bought 4 quarts to do an oil change and then bought the Norge so I returned them.
Bob
Bob
Cat City Rider
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Agip the recommended oil 10w 60w is now available. Thousand Oaks dealer now uses it. Got it in my last oil change about a month ago.
http://www.americanagip.com/index.php?m ... ducts_id=6
http://www.americanagip.com/index.php?m ... ducts_id=6
loftyjohn
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hi Gang
I believe the 10/60 oil is more suited for the later 4v engines which rev faster
Loftyjohn
I believe the 10/60 oil is more suited for the later 4v engines which rev faster
Loftyjohn
I haven't yet done my own oil changes, I just top up from time to time with whatever I can find that comes closest to 10W60.
My dealer started out by using the old 15W50 oil (IIRC this is even what the manuals called for initially). Now it's more like 10W50 or 10W55 (if that exists :S). According to him, the call for 10W60 is largely a deal with the "in-house" oil company: the Agip product which most certainly corresponds to what's actually needed. I've never bothered to check whether Agip carries 10W55 or 10W50 for instance, but it doesn't sound implausible
My bike never had problems starting on cold mornings with the 15W grade, and certainly not more on really cold mornings (like below -5ºC) than with the 10W grade I now have. For the hot grade, I think it can depend a bit on the climate you live in and the sort of riding you do. In a hot climate, and/or if you get into city traffic a lot, I'd try to go W60, indeed: the hot grade is probably more important anyway.
My dealer started out by using the old 15W50 oil (IIRC this is even what the manuals called for initially). Now it's more like 10W50 or 10W55 (if that exists :S). According to him, the call for 10W60 is largely a deal with the "in-house" oil company: the Agip product which most certainly corresponds to what's actually needed. I've never bothered to check whether Agip carries 10W55 or 10W50 for instance, but it doesn't sound implausible
My bike never had problems starting on cold mornings with the 15W grade, and certainly not more on really cold mornings (like below -5ºC) than with the 10W grade I now have. For the hot grade, I think it can depend a bit on the climate you live in and the sort of riding you do. In a hot climate, and/or if you get into city traffic a lot, I'd try to go W60, indeed: the hot grade is probably more important anyway.
Cat City Rider
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Personally, for me, the 60wt part is kinda important. In the summer months cuz I live out in the desert, and it can get a wee bit tepid. I have enjoyed 120 degree days but when it's that hot no one in their right mind would ride, with the possible exception of mad dogs and Englishmen. :laugh:
The norge maintenance manual is available here. https://www.guzzitech.com/MGGriso/Manual ... iceMan.pdf
The maintenance section shows where the transmission drain and fill plugs are located (on the right side of the transmission).
The maintenance section shows where the transmission drain and fill plugs are located (on the right side of the transmission).
Parts Manual can be gotten here,
Download and save the PDF from my network storage service;
http://buffalonas.com/Gootsie/Data/Norg ... Manusl.pdf
Download and save the PDF from my network storage service;
http://buffalonas.com/Gootsie/Data/Norg ... Manusl.pdf