• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Rear brake non existent since pad change

Chris2jze

Chris2jze

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jan 13, 2017
Messages
22
Location
Manchester UK
Hi All,

I have just spent 30 mins changing the front and rear pads for something that I hope will give me a little more bite.

The fronts went well and took less than 20min to do both sides. The rear however has taken a little longer but only due to the pin being a little bugger to remove. Anyway after it was all done and back together I seem to have little to no rear brake pressure being applied even at the fullest extent of the lever.

I have read some issues with air getting in the system after pushing the pistons back in so have just tried to bleed the caliper the old fashioned way.. pump the pedal a few times hold down, crack off the nipple, Catch the fluid, 're tighten nipple then let lever go and go again. After many attempts of doing this I cannot get the rear brake to firm up. Indeed the fluid seems to only trickle out of the caliper when the nipple is cracked and even after all this with the brake lever fully depressed I can still feel the play in the caliper on the carrier so it's applying little to no pressure.

Am I doing something wrong or has something broke while getting the new pads in. Any help would be great.

Thanks.
 
Do you have ABS on the Sport?
I had to do my Norge rear as the pedal went to the floor after a period of not being used.
Make sure there is adequate fluid in the reservoir and watch the fluid level. Tube on the bleed nipple into bottle. Put pressure on lever, open bleed, press lever down to stop, close nipple, release lever. Repeat.
 
Hi guys. Thanks for your replies.

Yes I did read those threads from the search but I don't have an ABS model and it doesn't really say what to do to sort the issue. I understand it can take air in when pushing the pistons back into the caliper but I don't understand why bleeding the way I have has not restored pressure in the rear system. Sorry if I'm being silly here. I did search first and read those threads. How does back bleeding with a syringe work? Thanks again.
 
I have read on here that back bleeding has worked.

Traditional bleeding does not always work because of the way calipers are mounted & routing on the brake lines.
Too many places for air to get trapped.
I have tried using the vacuum systems but they usually don't work well.

Can't remember what year the GM cars came out with a master cylinder that mounted at an angle.
Only way to bleed the system was to raise the back of the car so the master cylinder sat level.
 
Doesn't apply to Guzzi's was just using it as an example.

Might try leaving the bleeders open over night & doing a "gravity bleed".
I'm pretty sure that I have read on this forum that pressure bleeding (reverse bleeding) from the caliper seems to work the best.
If you try this leave the cap off the master cylinder & cover the bike with plastic & cloth because fluid is going to come out.
Brake fluid eats paint.
 
Many thanks, so by this you mean pressurising the caliper nipple and pushing fluid out the master cylinder?
 
Chris2jze said:
Many thanks, so by this you mean pressurising the caliper nipple and pushing fluid out the master cylinder?
Click to expand...
That's the way to reverse fill yes, using a big syringe. But it's normally mostly needed when trying to bleed the linked brakes on the older models. Never had problems bleeding the Norge. I did both brakes yesterday to replace the old brake fluid. Did the clutch too with no issues.
 
Check to be sure the pads are in position correctly. Easy for them to slip out on installation, hence they wouldn't work properly and can destroy things fast if not.
 
Hi All,

In the end after trying to bleed the system numerous times I pushed the caliper firmly towards the disk while pumping the rear brake, sliding it across. At first I could feel the pulsing of the pistons through my hand but it still was not firming up. Then all of a sudden it firmed up. It must have been the seal on the piston like others have said and I just got it in the sweet spot to re seal and hey presto firm rear brake!

Thanks for all the advise!
 
Something similar happened to me this past weekend. While taking a mountain ride my brake pedal went to the floorboard with no stopping action. Pulling over, I checked the rear master and calipers for leaks. All appeared good. Thinking it was a failed seal within the master cylinder a new unit was installed yesterday. Bleeding from the master down - no joy; Reverse bleeding from the calipers and splitter up- no joy. Very frustrating indeed. I will now give your happy accidental solution a try: pulling off the calipers and messing with the pistons. Otherwise I am down to taking the calipers apart and rebuilding. The bike only has 16,000 miles. Damn the luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top