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Removing Rusty Studs

WCGuzzi

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 10, 2009
Messages
29
All four exhaust studs on my (new to me) '81 G5 heads are rusted and cannot be easily removed, as is the only remaining stud on the inlet side (if these were studs in the first place, as I found two sizes of bolts and a helicoil when removing the Carbs. Most of the bolts I removed seemed smalled diameter than the remaining, rusted, inlet stud). In any event, liquid wrench and time didn't help much, and I'm concerned about damage to the heads by forcing them out.

I would plan to remove the studs by cutting them off close to the head, drill out as much of the bolt as I can without undue risk, the use an easyout. I presume this is fairly standard practice?

Going back, I guess I could have a shop drill them out a bit and install helicoils to get back to the normal diamter, or stay with smaller bolts. Your thoughts are most welcome....
 
Before cutting them I might try using heat on the whole area then use a vise-grip on the stud - try spaying the stud with something like WD-40 to cool it down and maybe it comes loose... if not you can still cut them.
 
WCGuzzi: Uncle's method is very effective, I've removed a great no. of steel studs of varyind diameters over the years from magnesium helicopter gearbox cases. Make sure you get the surrounding metal good and warm and you'll probably be amazed how easily they will come for you. FBC
 
I've used these stud extractors:
http://www.teng.co.uk/product-details.asp?prod_id=729

Great bit of kit that grips the stud firmer than any locking wrench, and it bites tighter the more force you apply. Pity you have to buy one for every size of stud (and they're not exactly cheap!). I guess there are cheaper versions available but I wouldn't like to guess what their quality is like.
 
Thansk uncle and frozen - Tried this technique last evening, limiting temp to a propane torch. Plenty of liquid wrench from earlier dousings. Het 'em up pretty good, applied the Vise Grips, nada. Added liquid wrench, hoping it would be drawn into seam with differential cooling, and moved on to the next. repeated three times. I'll try once more this evening before cutting. A reliable BMW Airhead guy said to watch out as this is a common way to strip threads (though they don't use studs for exhaust outlet).

Thanks
 
I am going to assume that you gave the stud a good blow or 2 right on the end of the bolt before and after heating ?
 
Thanks for the ideas. Dumb - I had not tapped it with a hammer - will do this tomorrow evening and go through the heating cycle again before I resort to drilling. Also try to get my hands on a stud extractor from the refinery tool room....
 
Penetrant, heat, tap, penetrant, stud extractor, done. Thanks
 
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