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service time

R

Roblatt

High Miler
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
603
Location
Nar Nar Goon, Victoria, Australia
I thought I'd share what 70,000km plugs look like on my B11. I have changed them.



Here is the alt belt with the same km's. It looks fine, not cracks, but I'm thinking change it. Thoughts?



edit: Also, I've had a stripped gearbox drain plug for the last 50,000km (no probs with plumbers tape and finger tight). I've found that using 2 crush washers gives me a good snug fit. Before I fill it with oil and find it leaks all over my rear wheel, just wandering if anyone has experience with 2 crush nuts leaking or not. If no-one has tried it, I will report back. If someone has tried it, I'd love to know if it works before I fill her up.

cheers

Robert
 
I'd probably keep running the plugs and belt. Plug electrodes looked OK, and they are the business end. If the belt has no cracks I don't see a reason to change it.

I would put a helicoil in the drain plug hole though. Grease on the drill and tap to trap filings.
 
I've been using NGK high mileage Iridium inner and outer plugs.

I'd change the belt think, the recommended interval is 30k miles. Check the owners manual. There's a thread on alternate brands that you might be able to pick up at the local auto parts store and avoid the waiting.

I've used solid steel TimeSerts on stripped M6 holes, they've work flawlessly. They make the size for the plug. But the install kit is much more expensive than helicoils.
 
Hi Rob, Re the sump plug Gimme a call I have a very relaxed relationship with a local small engineering shop and may well be able to borrow an appropriate inserting set for a W/End.
Alternately I have put the next size up fill level/drain plug(10x1.5mm) in the T3(over the counter sizes from A/barn or Scheap or something) so might be able to do similar, :idea: :idea: I'll go and have a look at mine on the Griso to get a bit of an idea. Hmmmmm not a lot of extra alloy to work with and its a 10x1mm thread (says the manual)so could try a 12x1mm replacement plug......which dont seem to exist!!! Or if it is not 10x1mm but 10x1.25 (or 1.5) there seems to be a few o/size plugs for imperial sizes so maybe for metric too ;)
 
Thanks all for the advice. I've been away from the computer for a few days so apologies for the delay.

I was trying to avoid a proper fix, but as fate would have it, I've pulled the swing arm to grease the bearings (bugger of a job) so while it's apart I'll do it properly and do as John suggests. Kim, thanks for the offer but I should be 'right now that I have easy access.

Now I have new questions. The left bearing race is pitted and needs to be replaced. The bearing appears fine, do I need to replace it too or just the race? (The dish like thing the bearing sits in)

Also, if I need to replace the bearing, should I do both, given the right side is fine?
Are the bearings and races available from most bearing shops or are the Guzzi specific?

Finally, while its all apart, do I need to pull apart the uni joints and grease them too?

Many thanks to all, your learned advice and experience is much appreciated.

Robert
 
Bearing and race should be replaced as a set, and they are normally sold that way. The only source for the bearing is Guzzi as far as I know. That is because of the seal on the outer side. If the other bearing is good, use it. The u-joint is not serviceable, just run it. Be sure to grease the shock linkage as well.
 
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