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Showa inverted fork oil change

Phang

Phang

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 16, 2009
Messages
388
Location
Singapore
My 2009 G8VSE odometer is approaching 10,000km (6250miles) and it is about time for the first fork oil change. This will be my first inverted fork oil change though I am experience in the right-side-up fork oil change.

I have got all the necessary tools ready and went through the service manual as well as topics related to the inverted fork oil change in the internet.

All seems well except the part to preset the rebound damping adjuster during reassembly. Here is an interesting piece of information I found in Traxxion website.

All Cartridge Forks:
You must preset the rebound adjuster before you reinstall the fork cap. This will prevent you from having different adjustment ranges on each fork. Back the rebound screw all of the way out. If it does not stop on a "click" turn it back in until it is in one. Turn the screw in three full turns. Pull the damping rod up out of the fork (conventional forks) and install compressor tool kit (inverted forks). Back the jam nut as far down the damping rod as it will go. This will allow you to fully thread the fork cap onto the damping rod. Thread the cap on until it stops turning. Then thread the jam nut up to meet the fork cap and tighten securely. At this point, check to see that the rebound adjuster is "seated". Do this by trying to turn the rebound screw in further. DO NOT FORCE THE REBOUND ADJUSTER INTO A CLICK!!! IT IS A SMALL WEAK NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY, AND YOU WILL DAMAGE IT!!! LIGHT FINGERTIP PRESSURE ON THE SCREWDRIVER IS ALL THAT IS REQUIRED. It should not move clockwise when tested from this point. It should back out if turned counterclockwise. If it will not fall into the last click easily, then loosen the cap and try again. If you back it up one click and turn it back in, it should stop in the last click. NOTE: Not all forks have adjusters that click. If yours do not, then a "click" is considered 1/4 of a turn. Most revalved racing forks should work properly at about 4-6 clicks from full hard, but consult your owner's manual for your specific application if you have stock fork valving.
WARNING!!!:Failure to back the rebound screw out from "full in" or "full hard" position can cause the fork to respond slowly and seem to "lock up". The motorcycle will be dangerous to ride and a crash can occur!!!
Click to expand...

My G8VSE fork rebound damping adjuster will make 2 ¼ turns from fully back out to fully seated, does it means I need to turn in the adjuster 2 ¼ turn from the fully back out position before I screw in the fork cap to the damping rod until it lightly seated then tighten it with the lock nut on the rod?

Phang
 
No idea, I've yet to do mine and I'm up to 40,000km! I'll probably take 'em out and send 'em to one of the suspension specialists and pick their brains as to ways to improve them, (Although I think the Showa is a super fork I think its valving could be improved as mine is backed out to almost 'Fully Soft' and I think the oil is pretty light.) I'm always happy to pay someone with a lot more experience than me for advice when it comes to suspension as it is, IMHO, one of the most important aspects of the machine. I'll spend money on handling and braking L-O-N-G before I start paying for stuff to improve power. There are some very good and experienced people out there and a few hundred dollars worth of time is a very cheap investment.

Pete
 
Hi Pete, it is nice to hear from you again :)

Doing the maintenance myself is (a big) part of the fun owning a Guzzi. No, I am not going to pay someone to steal away the fun from me.

Having said that, I will leave it to the professional for anything beyond an oil/ oil seals change.

Phang
 
Phang, I'd think a fork oil change would be a bit pre-mature according to the manual, but to each his own. A good practice is to "zero out" (minimum setting) all of the adjusters, and the manual will tell you the rest. Take some pictures and post them here for a hands-on how-to for everyone.
 
Hi Todd,

20,000km is about right in my book but the G8V manual suggested an initial change at 10,000km and every 20,000km thereafter. As for the fork seals, I wouldn’t touch them unless they are leaking.

I will post photos along the way, please feel free to comment folks :mrgreen:

Phang

grisoforkoilchange1.jpg
 
Phang said:
20,000km is about right in my book but the G8V manual suggested an initial change at 10,000km and every 20,000km thereafter. As for the fork seals, I wouldn’t touch them unless they are leaking.

I will post photos along the way, please feel free to comment folks :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Phang--So how did the forks oil change go? Any pointers? Never did the 10km service and I'm over the 20km mark now and am inclined to go the Roper route (wait at least until 40km :eek:hmy:) .
 
I am convinced by the guys above so I skipped the 10,000km fork oil change as recommended by Guzzi manual.

I’ll probably do it at the 20,000km mark. My odometer reading is 15,000km now, it will take about 6~8 months before it hits 20,000km.

Pete's bike should be 50,000km by now, probably he has something to share with us :mrgreen:

Phang
 
I'm no expert, but I believe all of MG's service intervals are grossly conservative and influenced by their honorable dedication to dealers to generate service tickets. I won't be changing my CARC/gearbox lube for a waaaay long time (I swapped it out with the synthetic Redline 'Pepto Bismol' looking stuff at 1000km).
 
Guzzi stated AGIP FORK 7.5W in the Griso manual, viscosity is 31.0 cST@40ºC according to the chart from peterverdone.

I bought a more readily available Swedish cod liver oil in 23 and 40 cST@40ºC, planning to blend them near to the viscosity of Italian olive oil that Guzzi filled in my Griso’s forks.

Will a 50:50 blend gives (23+40)/2=31.5 ? :mrgreen:

Phang

PDSCN6726.jpg
 
Phang said:
grisoforkoilchange1.jpg
Click to expand...
I guess Guzzi (as well as other manufacturers) recommends a fork oil change after the first few thousand miles because the fork, just like the engine + trans, goes through a break-in period during which tiny metal particles may end up in the oil, which may ruin the seals and whatnot in the long run...

Question is, what is the chance of this really happening? Do any of the savy tech dudes here know of premature fork issues/failures in bikes in which the fork oil hadn't been changed in 50,000 miles or so?

I'm asking because my G8VSE has just clocked 15,000 mi and I'm trying to figure out how long I can safely wait before my first fork oil change is "really" due.
 
Zero issues on forks, especially Showa (Honda owned). There are teflon-coated bushings, and 90%+ of contamination comes from the road surfaces collecting on the tubes, not from the internals.
 
Hi Greyo, I share the same thought as you do on this matter.

When I changed the fork oil of my other bike at 10,000km (bought new, Japanese, right side up forks), oil from one of the fork legs was grey-o colour with lots of fine silvery dust suspending in it. Subsequent oil change at 20,000km gave a more normal looking darken oil from both legs.

I am not sure running oil with fine metal particles in the forks will shorten its life but it sure feels good to pour out the dirty stuffs.
 
19K miles on my 09...
I ain't worry about the oil in the fork until I reach 25K miles.
 
I changed my oil at 24,000 mi, way over due in my opinion. I'd planned to do it during my first winter, around 12,000 but never got to it. My experience with off road bikes is that a lot of contamination will be picked up early, so I think the 6,000 mi recomendation is good, I'm was just too lazy. As it turns out, the hard parts were removing the forks and grinding a wrench down to fit the nut on the damper rod. Here're my steps:

1. Back out the damping adjuster, taking care to note how many turns out. Do the same with the preload nut.
2. Loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts and then loosen the fork top before removing the fork tube from the bike
3. Carefully unscrew the top (the fork tube is off the bike). Be careful because there's some spring preload and the top will pop off at the end.
4. Fit a couple narrow end wrenches on the nut and locknut under the cap and loosen the locknut, just enough to break it loose. I had to grind the sides of a wrench to get it to fit. I don't remember what size it is.
5. Unscrew the cap, remove the spring and wipe off. Oil will get everywhere at this point, it's just part of the charm.
6. Dump the old oil out. I think theres a spring seat in there that will come out, be sure to catch it. Pump the fork tube several times while upside down to get the oil out.
7. I mixed 5w and 10w fork oil 50/50, add the prescibed amount. It's quanity, not level. Add about 3/4, pump the fork till it feels and sounds bled, you'll be able to tell. Then add the rest.
8. Replace the spring seat, spring, and screw on the cap. Be sure to snug up the cap after the tube is on the bike, before the top clamp is tightened
9. Reset the damping and preload to previous values
10. Clean the oil off your hands before opening the beer, it's too hard to hold onto therwise.
 
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