small oil leak

[Donat Santowiak]

Not sure if anyone has experienced a small oil leak from the engine breather hose. There is a plastic Y connector just behind the starting motor with one hose from the bottom of engine and two hosed running up the air filter both. The leak seems to start somewhere up at the plastic Y connector.

To remove the staring motor do you have to undo all wires or just undo the two retaining bolts and pull it out?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Regards

 

[sib]

Been there, done that. '13 V7 Stone. I also thought the leak was coming from one of the hoses connected to the Y or to the check valve. Turns out it was coming from the fitting where the lower hose from the check valve screws into the crankcase. It was simply loose. Tightened it up and the leak went away. When oil leaks out of there at speed, it crawls up the hose, so you can't tell where it's coming from.

Make sure the thin gasket is under the fitting, and be careful tightening the fitting, it's very easy to overdo it and strip the threads in the soft aluminum crankcase.

 

[sign216]

Removing the starter is easy and straight forward, just a couple of bolts. As I recall a ratchet wrench with an extension and a "u-joint" flexible couple make it easier. Warning: disconnect the battery neg ground first!

 

[francod123]

Removing the starter is easy and straight forward, just a couple of bolts. As I recall a ratchet wrench with an extension and a "u-joint" flexible couple make it easier. Warning: disconnect the battery neg ground first!

Didn't realize anything could happen if you didn't disconnect the batter negative. I never did when removing my starter motor a number of times.

Yea I replaced a hose down there as well because it was kinking, but the replacement part I ordered and kept inquiring about with AF1, about how the part numbers were the same but the hose was slightly different (not as hard or stiff as the original). Apparently it had been "updated" perhaps. Not sure, still doesn't seem as good as the one that was on there but it's working.

 

[john zibell]

Didn't realize anything could happen if you didn't disconnect the batter negative. I never did when removing my starter motor a number of times.

If the battery cable attached to the solenoid makes contact, you will get one heck of a spark or arcing. I usually disconnect the cable at the starter using a 13mm socket, then slip a piece of hose over the cable so it can't make contact. That way the bikes electronics don't have to be reset (clock etc).

 

[sign216]

John I got that spark once, and the surprise knocked me on my butt. After that I always disconnect the battery, but covering the cable is the easy way to take care of it.

 

[Donat Santowiak]

Been there, done that. '13 V7 Stone. I also thought the leak was coming from one of the hoses connected to the Y or to the check valve. Turns out it was coming from the fitting where the lower hose from the check valve screws into the crankcase. It was simply loose. Tightened it up and the leak went away. When oil leaks out of there at speed, it crawls up the hose, so you can't tell where it's coming from.

Make sure the thin gasket is under the fitting, and be careful tightening the fitting, it's very easy to overdo it and strip the threads in the soft aluminum crankcase.

Thank you for such a prompt reply.
The breather hose out of the crankcase does not seem to have any oil at the screw in point and appears dry until where it starts bending upwards behind the starting motor. I assume the breather valve is same where behind the starting motor before it (or via another piece of hose) connects the Y junction?

I guess I will not know until the starting motor is removed.

Kind regards
Don

 

[Donat Santowiak]

Removing the starter is easy and straight forward, just a couple of bolts. As I recall a ratchet wrench with an extension and a "u-joint" flexible couple make it easier. Warning: disconnect the battery neg ground first!

Thank you for your reply.

It appears as though when the starting motor will be pulled back from the crankcase, the solenoid on top of the starting motor, will collide with part of the frame. Does it come out on a bit of an angle? (outwards?)


Kind regards
Don

 

[Donat Santowiak]

Removing the starter is easy and straight forward, just a couple of bolts. As I recall a ratchet wrench with an extension and a "u-joint" flexible couple make it easier. Warning: disconnect the battery neg ground first!

Thank you for the advice.

Kind regards
Don

 

[Donat Santowiak]

Didn't realize anything could happen if you didn't disconnect the batter negative. I never did when removing my starter motor a number of times.

Yea I replaced a hose down there as well because it was kinking, but the replacement part I ordered and kept inquiring about with AF1, about how the part numbers were the same but the hose was slightly different (not as hard or stiff as the original). Apparently it had been "updated" perhaps. Not sure, still doesn't seem as good as the one that was on there but it's working.

Thank you for the advice.

Kind regards
Don

 

[Donat Santowiak]

John I got that spark once, and surprise knocked me on my butt. After that I always disconnect the battery, but covering the cable is the easy way to take of it.

Thank you for the advice.

Kind regards
Don

 

[Mozz]

I just got back from a 2 hour ride and I was turning down some bolts to fill the hole from the mirrors I removed and after about 15 minutes I noticed a drop of oil on the floor. The hose going into the sump on mine was leaking as well. bike has only done 2500 klm.

 

[mwrenn]

I just got back from a 2 hour ride and I was turning down some bolts to fill the hole from the mirrors I removed and after about 15 minutes I noticed a drop of oil on the floor. The hose going into the sump on mine was leaking as well. bike has only done 2500 klm.

That is not a good hose that Guzzi uses on the breather return to the crankcase. I removed my hose from the case, it leaked out some oil, so I should have waited until I did an oil change. Anyway, I got a dremel tool and cut off the crimped on sleeve that holds the hose to the case fitting. after I cut the sleeve off, I slid the hose off the fitting, it was just like a barbed hose fitting. I put on a new piece of MIL H6000 hose, 5/16 inch I.D. no more leak.

 

[Donat Santowiak]

That is not a good hose that Guzzi uses on the breather return to the crankcase. I removed my hose from the case, it leaked out some oil, so I should have waited until I did an oil change. Anyway, I got a dremel tool and cut off the crimped on sleeve that holds the hose to the case fitting. after I cut the sleeve off, I slid the hose off the fitting, it was just like a barbed hose fitting. I put on a new piece of MIL H6000 hose, 5/16 inch I.D. no more leak.

My oil leak appears to be coming from the breather hoses "Y" junction that is located almost behind the starter motor. My thought is that the original hose crimps are not tight enough. The oil drips only after the bike has stood for a while after a ride. Not sure why this is so as the hoses in the breather circuit should have no pressure in them.
To date the amount of seepage has been very minute and after wiping the floor and the hose that connects the crankcase and the plastic non-return valve, there is no more seepage until the bike is parked after the next ride.
This winter I will pull the starter off cut the existing hose crimps (dremel?) off and replace them with screw type hose clamps. Just need to make sure that these new clamps (bigger) fit OK in the gap between the starter and the gearbox casing as the gap is tight.

 

[mwrenn]

My oil leak appears to be coming from the breather hoses "Y" junction that is located almost behind the starter motor. My thought is that the original hose crimps are not tight enough. The oil drips only after the bike has stood for a while after a ride. Not sure why this is so as the hoses in the breather circuit should have no pressure in them.
To date the amount of seepage has been very minute and after wiping the floor and the hose that connects the crankcase and the plastic non-return valve, there is no more seepage until the bike is parked after the next ride.
This winter I will pull the starter off cut the existing hose crimps (dremel?) off and replace them with screw type hose clamps. Just need to make sure that these new clamps (bigger) fit OK in the gap between the starter and the gearbox casing as the gap is tight.

When you have it apart take a good look at the factory hose. Mine was weather checked and cracked from the y junction to the case. My bike is an earlier Model though, hopefully Guzzi used some better hose on the later models...

 

[Donat Santowiak]

When you have it apart take a good look at the factory hose. Mine was weather checked and cracked from the y junction to the case. My bike is an earlier Model though, hopefully Guzzi used some better hose on the later models...

Thank you.
I will check all hoses. The one that runs from the bottom of the "Y" junction to the plastic breather valve is shielded by a woven sleeve. Not sure what the function of the sleeve is. Would it be heat shielding? (looks quite thin). Perhaps it offers a physical protection for the rubber hose as it is in a tight gap between the starter motor and the gearbox case? Maybe it does get hot in that spot and so the rubber breaks down with time/use. My bike has done 3700km.
For interest included a pic of my bike. Fitted different mirrors, adjustable levers since and waiting for Sato rearsets at the moment.

 

[mwrenn]

Beautiful bike! Thanks for the pic. My earlier model did not have any type of sleeve over the hose. Sounds like Guzzi addressed the issue with your bike.
Cheers!