• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Stock Airbox Configuration

Jlyon99

Jlyon99

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
62
Location
Oak Park, CA
I decided to investigate the stock airbox today, primarily to see what the enhanced sound was like with the air filter exposed. Yes, it does sound better - like a 68 Camaro roaring. Very surprising, actually, how much difference it makes - can almost forget about the pipe if you want a bigger sound (at least in my garage...).

When I took the thing apart, however, I was confused by the foam pieces I found on top of the filter (red arrows), which I can tell were in place on top of the filter in this way by the clean corners of the filter. Before I put all this back together (which takes some fumbling), do these foam pieces serve a purpose or can they be discarded? The filter seems to he held in place by the plastic cover.

Also, the inner plastic cover on the end of the filter (green arrow) seems to be there to deflect water from getting on the filter. Is having the filter open, as many have done, a concern if you'll be traveling in rain, or does the filter itself deflect water?

BTW, I'm considering removing the nozzle only (left side piece in photo), as this opens up enough storage place to place a emergency tire repair kit. Would this small change lean out the fuel mixture enough to justify Todd's ECU reflash?

Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0604b.JPG
    IMG_0604b.JPG
    159.2 KB · Views: 1,074
The foam and deflector in the lid are for sound and weather. I've yet to see a lid where the foam was still in place. The 1100 will barely run with the lid off without serious fuel modification. My static re-flash would be best as step/stage I, but I still recommend my full kit for ideal (real-time/dynamic) fueling. Contact me direct email for more info; Todd at GuzziTech.com
 
GT-Rx said:
The foam and deflector in the lid are for sound and weather. I've yet to see a lid where the foam was still in place. The 1100 will barely run with the lid off without serious fuel modification. My static re-flash would be best as step/stage I, but I still recommend my full kit for ideal (real-time/dynamic) fueling. Contact me direct email for more info; Todd at GuzziTech.com
Click to expand...

Welcome back Todd !!!!! :mrgreen:
 
Just to clarify, the two foam pieces are supposed to be glued to the spaces moulded inside the snorkel/nozzle.
I assume they are supposed to dampen the sound, or possibly the air pulses? Obviously I know this because mine came out too.

If you put your fingers in there, you will probably still feel the stickiness (no sniggering at the back).

David

Glad you are feeling better Todd
 
GT-Rx said:
The foam and deflector in the lid are for sound and weather. I've yet to see a lid where the foam was still in place. The 1100 will barely run with the lid off without serious fuel modification. My static re-flash would be best as step/stage I, but I still recommend my full kit for ideal (real-time/dynamic) fueling. Contact me direct email for more info; Todd at GuzziTech.com
Click to expand...

Thanks, Todd. Very glad to see you back.

I'll be removing at least the snorkel to gain some storage space. If this change requires a reflash to avoid excessively lean running, maybe I'll have a better running bike as a bonus! I'll email you to find out your schedule - no hurry since I know you're still on the mend.
 
Jlyon99 said:
Goodvibes said:
De-snorkeled BMC filter setup here, no negative runnability issues.
Click to expand...

With stock ecu??

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Yup, unmolested ECU. I think Pete did some drilling on his airbox cover to open it up but found that mod less than desireable.
 
I decided to remove the snorkel to see how it ran, and it runs fine. However, I also reset my TPS at the same time, which was previously off, so that correction had probably a much larger affect.

Anyway, I used the empty snorkel space to store a tire repair kit (4 CO2 bottles in the bottom bag, with a plug insertion tool on the top). I put some velcro on the inner fender and velcro straps around the kit, so the whole thing stays in place quite nicely. I also faced the pointy end of the tool into the air box, as I didn't want it to poke at the electrical connections behind.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0610.jpg
    IMG_0610.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 774
Ran my Bellagio around the car park with new pipes and open lid air box plus reflashed ECU, meaning O2 function disabled. It idled fine and pulled well in first gear, no farts, no hiccups.

I was surprised to find that at some points in the rev range I needed 42% more fuel to get the A/F ratio where it should be.

Un-molested mapping was higher than 17:1 in places.

At 4325rpm I picked up 8rwhp and 10ft/lbs of torque with a PC-5, individual maps for each cylinder.
Torque peak dropped by 1500rpm but HP peak rose by 1000rpm.
 
ghezzi said:
It idled fine and pulled well in first gear, no farts, no hiccups.
I was surprised to find that at some points in the rev range I needed 42% more fuel to get the A/F ratio where it should be. Un-molested mapping was higher than 17:1 in places.
Click to expand...
Thanks for posting that.
One can stick their head in the sand for how it feels, or you can realize that there is modern science/solutions that are light years ahead of a jet kit when you modify the intake/exhaust. 10+ years of trying to get this point across, yet there are still deaf ears. Why risk damage to your motor?
 
GT-Rx said:
One can stick their head in the sand for how it feels, or you can realize that there is modern science/solutions that are light years ahead of a jet kit when you modify the intake/exhaust. 10+ years of trying to get this point across, yet there are still deaf ears. Why risk damage to your motor?
Click to expand...

Todd, I get why the closed loop would be set too lean by the factory map for emissions, but any idea why other sections of the map would be set overly rich?
 
Jlyon99 said:
Todd, I get why the closed loop would be set too lean by the factory map for emissions, but any idea why other sections of the map would be set overly rich?
Click to expand...
It's also quite lean in open loop from cruise on up to near wide open throttle. From what I've gathered, little R&D (money) is spent to "perfect" the fueling. Rich: How much time is really spent at wide open throttle? The factory must feel as rich is better then lean @WFO. My $.02.
 
hello everyone

been watching the posts about the removal of the air snorkel to fit a tyre repair kit (nice idea)
is it really ok to do this without altering fueling and ecu stuff.
Like can I just do it ??

BTW i'm so looking to get back out after the salts gone, that is if my 1100's mirrors don't just rust away before my eyes from this English winter.

Andy
 
Guzzilife said:
been watching the posts about the removal of the air snorkel to fit a tyre repair kit (nice idea)
is it really ok to do this without altering fueling and ecu stuff.
Like can I just do it ??
Click to expand...
An unscientific 'yes' based on my experience. I thought of putting stuff there as well, but was concerned it could move around and partially block the air filter opening that the snorkel used to mate to.
 
When my ECU was flashed by Todd and PCV and auto tune were installed on my 8v Griso the stock Air to Fuel Ratio was between 16.4 and 17.1 which explained why my cylinder heads were so hot idling around town, and then over 5k it got really rich..

Plus stock with the 68 map the throttle response was jerky and I thought it was the CARC but after Todds fueling mods and pipe.. the bike pulled perfectly smooth, and more importantly the heads run so much cooler in Arizona!!!

I definitely wouldn't open up the intake unless you plan on fixing the fueling.
 
Hi,

like several others wrote, don't alter your intake without changing your fuell mapping. :idea:
Changing your exhaust can allready be a cause you have to let your mapping be "adjusted".
On my Griso I have a Mistral High Rise exhaust in combination with a open sportairfilter from BMC.
"Mr. Dyno" from Holland, Ruud Frederiks in Goes, was a few hours playing with my Griso and mapping. B)
Result: 112 Hp :mrgreen: at the back wheel and more important, the dip in the torque curve between 3500-5000 Rpm is nearly gone.
Note: the dip went nearly away with changing to the BMC filter and open setup...
The exhaust db killer has to be removed for this magnificent HP result... :whistle:
My Griso is a beast now, but a beast whith a great driveabillety.
Here is a picture of my filter setup now.


Let springtime begin... we're (me+G12) ready!
Ad B
 

Attachments

  • BMC airfilter.jpg
    BMC airfilter.jpg
    170.3 KB · Views: 330
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top