Suggestions For Convert Improvements/Updates?

[Dieself]

I am a new owner of a 1977 Convert. The speedometer shows 62,521 miles (title says not actual miles). I am looking for suggestions concerning improvements to make my convert the best it can be. Also looking for the most cost effective ways to achieve my ongoing goal. I will be doing the work myself. What I do know about the bike so far. It runs strong, starts easily, and feels stable at 75 to 80 mph : ) I also noticed; The night vision sucks, clutch does not release without bumping it (sticky plates or notched hub & plates?), oil leaks at vicinity of valve covers/heads (valve cover gaskets in the mail), the transmission howls (I'm going to try redline per a thread I saw by BigBikerRick). I think I will nickname this bike "Howling Monkey". Throttle pull would break a chicken's neck (springs? where to buy?). The back brake is weak - I will continue to bleed/flush it, however when hand pressing the brake lever it has a catch about half way through. I noticed the speedometer is about 3 or 4 mph slow around town. I haven't checked it's accuracy on the highway. I guess that just about covers it. I'm all ears and appreciative for suggestions and ideas.
Thanks, Dan

 

[scottmastrocinque]

By this time I’m almost positive the torque converter has been apart. The exterior case wear on the engine block versus the torque converter, also make me think this.

 

[Dieself]

By this time I’m almost positive the torque converter has been apart. The exterior case wear on the engine block versus the torque converter, also make me think this.

Hopefully that is a good thing. Here are pictures of the ring gear / flywheel. Am I correct that this is the all one piece heavy one?

 

[Nordicnorm]

The brakes are linked, so the rear may seem weak. One front balanced to the smaller rear disc through the magic of hydraulics. Front brake lever controls the other front disc. Try lubing or replacing clutch cable, and check adjustment on back of gear box.
What a beauty in all white!
Back in the 80's I owned a G5 (5 speed version of Convert). A friend had one of these. My first test ride took me down the drive way to the first stop light. Green light, feet up on the floorboards as I gassed it. Almost dumped it right there from the "lag" in the torque converter!
The dual points set-up is very stable if you are thinking electronic ign. My clutch hub started acting up at 55K miles, which made for a grabby clutch, but you are only shifting between low and high, so try the simpler options first.
All the Tontis had optimistic speedos, keeps you out of trouble, and you can't send your ticket to Mandello and complain....
If you take the time and effort, prepare to get hooked.
Happy New Year!

 

[john zibell]

For the headlight to function better, rig 2 each 30 amp relays that are supplied 12 volts to power your headlight directly from the battery on a fused line. Use the existing circuitry in the headlight shell to trigger the relays. You will need 2 relays, one in-line fuse, wire, one loop wire connector, bulk wire, and male and female spade connectors, and an extra headlight socket. Look at the schematic for the relays and it is easy to figure out the circuitry. Use male spade connectors to make your connections to the existing headlight socket of the bike harness.

 

[Amboman]

On my '76 Convert I switched to an LED headlight (and every other bulb on the bike as well) and have inexpensive LED driving lights mounted low on the crashbars. The Convert charging system sometimes has trouble keeping the battery charged due to the engine not always running at higher rpms. The LED headlight helps lessen the load considerably. I'd also recommend replacing the original electro-mechanical voltage regulator with a solid state one and adding a "bootstrap harness" from Greg Bender to the charging light circuit.

When I had my Convert almost completely apart, I replaced any worn parts in the clutch... and it still sticks. I pull the clutch in when I first start the engine and after a blip or two of throttle it will release. The only time you really need to use it is when starting and for shifting between ranges, so it's not worth tearing the whole bike apart to me. The late Mike Tiberio used to remove the clutch actuating parts (and shift pedal stuff too) from all of his Converts.

Howling transmission is not normal. My favorite gear oil for problem transmission is Royal Purple Gear Max (not to turn this into an oil thread).

Lube the cables and throttle - that'll help some. Teflon lined cables may help a bit more. VHB carbs rely on the heavy springs to seal the slides against the carb body, sometimes when lighter springs are used the engine speed doesn't drop down like it should. I installed a pair of vintage "Fin Q" grips with a wrist rest molded in and they help a lot.

If there's a "catch" about half way on the rear brake, then the master cylinder could be on it's way to failing. Might be time for a rebuild or replacement. If you still have the original rubber hoses (there's a date code printed on them) then I would recommend replacing them with stainless braided brake hoses.

3 to 4 mph error is normal.

If the fluid/transmission hoses haven't been replaced recently, then I'd recommend doing that. They're not under a lot of pressure, but a burst hose will not be fun.

 

[Dieself]

This is all good stuff. Thank you Amboman, John, and Nordicnorm. After flushing the linked brake system real good I have a much better response. I'll look into locating a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.
I agree about the clutch. I can live without it, it's not worth pulling everything apart.
Good idea to replace brake lines with stainless and to replace the hoses.
I believe that I have a deep sump as the dip stick (about 110 mm) only shows oil at the low level mark after dumping the oil and filling with 3 quarts. I'm thinking that if I do indeed have a deep sump that I might be able to use the larger oil filter. Does anyone know off hand? I have a 6.0 Guzziology book I will search through. Haynes manual will be here friday.
The u-joint boot looks fairly new so I'm hopeful about the u-joint. Eventually I will pull the joint for peace of mind. I had my G5 u-joint come apart on me at aprox 75 mph.
The Redline did quieten down the gear box, at least so far.

Dan

 

[Amboman]

I can't tell from your lead photo what sump your Convert has - perhaps a closer shot down low will. I have a sump spacer on mine.

 

[john zibell]

Along with what Amboman said about the sump, you will need an adapter to use the larger oil filter like the CARC bikes. I don't know if Todd sells them from the store but check there with an e-mail if needed. I know at one time Harper's Moto Guzzi sold them.

 

[Dieself]

Here is the sump.
ie an adaptor for larger filter

 

[Amboman]

If someone has installed a deep sump, there's a good chance it already has the larger filter.

The correct dipstick for the deep sump is ~ 140 mm long. I like the "finger twist" type so that I don't need to carry a 22 mm socket, extension and ratchet with me.

 

[Vagrant]

I know nothing about the the slush drive but is the clutch arm one spline off? On the pic the angle just looks wrong.

 

[john zibell]

I know nothing about the the slush drive but is the clutch arm one spline off? On the pic the angle just looks wrong.

There is no spline. Similar to the 5 speed but engagement system is different. It still pivots on a pin.

 

[Amboman]

Hopefully that is a good thing. Here are pictures of the ring gear / flywheel. Am I correct that this is the all one piece heavy one?

Now that I finally have a monitor that shows photos more clearly (old one died suddenly), yes, that appears to be the heavy machined flywheel.