• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

T3 linked brakes splitter issue

D

Dave Bonsall

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 9, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Sussex, England
I’m overhauling the linked brakes on my 77 T3 and I’m questioning the way the various brake lines connect to the splitter. As taken apart, and been that way for 30 years, the connections were in the following order:-
Top: front caliper
Middle: brake light switch
Lower: master cylinder
Bottom (in line with body of splitter): rear caliper.
My thought is that the front caliper and master cylinder are the wrong way round? The top port has a very restricted opening (3mm?) which matches the outlet in the m/c. See photo.
Any thoughts please?
50E37457 144F 4535 B491 653FDDB1D12C
 
The top small hole will give more power to the front brake than the rear., which I think comes out of the bottom (the 4th hole in your picture). Hydraulics are fascinating.
 
Looked at my LM3, top is front(hard line), center is switch, bottom is master, under bottom(strait down) is rear brake
You want a new one? I would consider one from a CalVin, same thing w/a bleeder on top. Made for newer calipers so may act different or not.
 
Thank guys that’s really useful. Hydraulics fascinating but baffling!
A bleed nipple would be handy but I’m hoping my simple pressurised bleeding kit will do the job. A project for the holidays!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top