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Turn-Signal Switch Problem

Bill Hagan

Bill Hagan

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
1,709
Location
Above Pott's Camp along Braddock's route, Virginia
Notice to John Zibell: Do NOT tell me to search, cuz I did! :laugh:

Seriously, need help with the turn-signal switch on my -- beloved but aging ... that's Kathi's description of me, but it seemed apt here, too :blush: -- 1998 HDM EV. It has 93K and is my daily commuter, tho Kathi and I took it to the mountains last weekend for old-times' sake, and it was a champ. The HDM is the perfect livery for fall, too. But, I digress.

This is, I think, a mechanical, not electrical, issue, at least in the sense that the problem is the teeny-tiny (#$%^&* :evil: ) screw that keeps the L/R and cancel switch in place and pivoting inside of the switch housing ... also, of course, home to the low- and high-beam switch, bright-flasher switches, and cable to "choke."

I have become adept of late at removing said housing, locating the AWOL fastener, and replacing it into its hole thru the t/s switch. I wish I did not have to do that every few days and presume that there must originally have been a lock of some kind to keep the *&^%$ screw in place semi-permanently. OTOH, if so, cannot imagine how one can get a nut or lockwasher into the #@$%^& crevice that said nut would go.

Anybody know? Any work-arounds? Replacing entire unit easier? Obtainable at an "unstupid" price.

Thanks.

Bill
 
Bill,

Easiest thing to do is replace the complete assembly. The price of the assembly will save you three times as much in frustration. :mrgreen:
 
john zibell said:
Bill,

Easiest thing to do is replace the complete assembly. The price of the assembly will save you three times as much in frustration. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Thanks, John ... I think.

So, I call Todd at MPH. The part is "LH control lights device" MG part # 30738060.

The cost? $193+. :woohoo:

As I told Todd, as I have gotten almost NASCAR-pit-crew fast in taking the sucker apart, I may just sidle up to another EV at the next rally and do a swap. :p

Seriously, not sure I can't figure out a fix or just keep doing the take-down for tha kind of money. Even with a "better brand," that's a lot of beer. ;)

Thanks, anyway, John.

Bill

P.S. If anyone does know if someone makes itty-bitty nylock nuts or knows another way to fix the sucker, please chime in.
 
If you want to try the cheap route, pack the back side with JB weld, then put the screw into the goo. When the goo sets, you have a molded nut. When that fails, get the new switch.
 
Bill,

I'm not familiar with that exact model. In fact none of my bikes are from the 90's. :D Old fart, old bikes.

Most of the switchgear I have has a small grub screw that stops it rotating on the bar. Can't you drill a small hole in the bar and use a grub screw to fit in and locate it.

Thread lock will stop the screw from moving.

I don't know if what I'm suggesting will work as I'm having trouble picturing your issue. If it is helpful then it should work. If I've misread the issue just ignore me.

Cheers

Rod
 
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