Upgrade path for 1200 Sport

[Mal]

Hi everyone. You might be able to help me out here.

Basically I don’t have the funds to buy everything at once and even if I did I can’t get more that ~$500 at a time past the other half :lol:

I keep my bikes for a long time and use them everyday till they get unreliable (8 years and 75,000 km on my Triumpie from new) I’d like to think I’ll get at least 10 years and 100,000km from my Sport. Also I always feel a relaxed engine rather than “increased HP” will put less stress on the other components, which is why I like my 2V and I don’t want the stage 1 kit with increased compression etc.

I’m in no rush for upgrades. Engine reliability and correct running, not performance or emissions/noise compliance, is my “goal” Also my bike runs REALLY well (or I would not have brought her) No issues with stepper motors etc and no real need to change her.

I tend to cruise at 4,000RPM on the highway for long trips. I tend not to have to ride in stop start traffic or at 60km/h or slower for very long. I do like to play in the twisties at lower revs 3,000~6,000 and some excursions to the rev limiter for fun from traffic lights.

But there are always new toys to play with so possible upgrade path over (perhaps a long) time.

GT-RX exhaust

I have already removed the airbox snorkel and I would like to eventually go to an aftermarket exhaust. (I do like Agostini’s but the GT-Rx one does look super cool and the idea of a custom made exhaust appeals to me ) and I can add the exhaust o.k. to my stock bike.

If I’m going to get the exhaust, I might as well get the airbox lid too as long as there is NO CHANCE of water getting in. We get very heavy monsoonal rain here so I don’t want any chance of her breathing in water. While the stock ECU will run the Exhaust modification, the Air box lid needs an ECU upgrade. So the next step is the

GT-Rx ECU with the airbox lid.

So that’s cool, benefiting from getting the ECU timing tweaks and a correct fuel map to suit those mods. But fuel is a bit different her in Aus and because I travel I use all sorts of different fuel RON’s so…..

PC-V and Autotune
To customise the ECU fuel map to my bike

Somewhere along the lines I’ll also need the VDSDS so I can diagnose any computer errors over the life of the bike.

My issues.

OEM exhaust is currently cracked, a warranty replacement is coming….. but it’s taking a really long time so I would really like to do the exhaust 1st.

But the PC-V order is coming up soon. While I would like to do that last, or perhaps after the exhaust, we are unlikely (I my opinion) to get enough people for another custom batch after this one. I don’t want to be unable to buy the PC-V a year later Same issue with the airbox lid, while I need an ECU upgrade (or perhaps PC-V) to run it, is it likely to be available in a year or so?

Thanks for any suggestions (except for buy them all at once. I just don’t have that sort of cash)

 

[GrahamNZ]

If it runs well, leave it stock is my advice.

If you want to spend money I'd go for the best tyres as No1 and better suspension as No 2. Only when you find that full throttle isn't having the desired effect is it time for more performance.

 

[Mal]

Fair call.

I love sticky tires, use to ride quite soft bridgestones but was told the Sport would not like them. Finally decided to do what everyone else was doing and get some Road2's They are like a gluestick really happy Should have changed years ago. Almost went with the softer Power 2CT but I'm scraping footpegs at will and feeling secure with the Road2

My '01 RS Triumph 955 was a bit renound for bad suspension so perhaps I'm just use that, or just not pushing the Sport enough but she feels good to me suspension wise.

#3 would be more rider training as people are just better riders than me. (It's rarely the bike causing the difference.) I tend to do training with new machines and ever few years. Will be doing another one in a month. I'm usually told I ride quite smooth.

The only handling issues I've been able to get are front lockups under Really hard braking over Very bumpy roads and everything does that. Also since I've been taught to use both brakes I'm still having a bit of trouble with "unexpected" road hazards. I automatically squeeze a bit more, lighten the rear, lock it, and she goes a bit out of shape. The rear brakes on the old Trumpie were quite wooden and you could basically use the leaver as a footpeg! I'm getting better with practice. But seriously considering modifying braking technique to just using a dab of rear and instant release.

Really thinking about the engine today coming to and from work and about all I would really want is to change under 3500 rpm. If you give her full throttle, going uphill, she will sometimes go tap tap tap tap tap tap tap until she gets above 4,000 rpm or so. Seems like the timing might change around there, perhaps valve noise / pushrods. Don't know. Hopefully it is not pinging. As long as it's not hurting the ending it's not an issue, the bike pulls hard and just goes. Getting use to using 5th below 110km/h on the highway but we do have one fun road with ~60km/h corners. 1st feels a bit revvy if trying to have a go and 3rd a touch too quick for public road blind corners. (edited the rpm and gears after tonights ride)

Still I would enjoy fiddling with maps etc on my computer. I would probably never get a dyno done on my bike as I don't like to use the engine that hard + air cooled running flat out seems like a mean thing to do to an engine. :dry: But having the VDSTS would give me some computer fun too.

 

[beemer]

My 1200 runs really sweet with the Stage one kit. It consists of a full system plus new ECU, you can aslo fit K&N filter pods. Rode in quite heavy rain yesterday here in Melbourne and K&N pods were dry.
When My exhaust cracked I asked MG if it was possible to pay the difference and they agreed. Cost difference was less than than the cost of an upgraded muffler.

Beemer

 

[rturo]

"Really thinking about the engine today coming to and from work and about all I would really want is to change around 3500 rpm. If you give her full throttle, going uphill, she will go tap tap tap tap tap tap tap until she gets above 4,000 rpm or so. Seems like the timing might change around there, perhaps valve noise / pushrods. Don't know. Hopefully it is not pinging. As long as it's not hurting the ending it's not an issue, the bike pulls hard and just goes."


Mal

If you read the PCV/ECU upgrade threads you will see that its at 30% throttle where the change from closed to open loop (or is it open to closed :shock: ) takes place and where a lot of the problems/dissatisfaction with the fueling occurs.

Like you I originally found changing aroung 4000 rpm feels natural when not in a rush but I now think this is were you are just entering "better" fuelling and by changing up you are moving back into the "sour"spot (is that the opposite of the sweet spot) - I even measured 30% throttle travel on the grip and cut a notch and found that you can actually see what you feel is confirmed in pretty much any gear on the road...Of course the fuelling in the higher rev ranges is too rich ...which is where the PCV / Autotune comes into its own, above 30% throttle it was enough to convince me to get the PCV and if i ever sort a second sensor fitting I'll be adding an Autotune (seems great value considering what it does and includes the necessary O2 sensor)

I've started reving her more before changing up even when just pottering about.



Art
B1100

 

[Mal]

Thanks Art. OEM bikes oftem seem to feel a but sour around where the ride by niose level test is performed. Thanks for the info.

Hi Beemer. The Stage one kit is very cool. I was actually offered it instead since my exhaust was taking so long. But I don't want high set exhaust, air box removed etc. I would like a rear rack (the dream is panniers that don't leak) because of all the time my replacement exhaust is taking. Left 2 messages in the last few days. Starting to get a bit annoyed, even my patience eventually runs out (Looks like mine ends after about 6 mts)

 

[GTM®]

Mal, the most critical thing in my opinion is to get the fueling sorted, as the bike is fueled critically lean (closed loop), then horribly rich (open loop). That said, our muffler with the db-killer in, will give slightly more sound without effecting OEM fueling/running, and it's actually slightly better in the top of the revs.

The time is now to get on board for the custom PC-V order, only $180 needed to put your name on one.

Happy to answer any other questions here or direct e-mail; Todd at GuzziTech.com

 

[kiwi dave]

I would like a rear rack (the dream is panniers that don't leak)

Highly recommend the Hepco & Becker 30 litre bags. They don't leak, and in my opinion far superior to the Aprilia Futura versions that Guzzi supplies.

Tell the suppliers it's for a Breva 1100, otherwise they might say they're not available.