• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

V7 lll 2021 750cc - Valve Adjustment question /Intake keeps getting off specs.

Beavis

Just got it firing!
Joined
Mar 28, 2023
Messages
24
Location
Portugal
I have noticed that the manual says to start with the left cylinder , but does that matter?
 
I have noticed that the manual says to start with the left cylinder , but does that matter?
Not really. I prefer to start with the right. Then you don't have to rotate the engine that much to do the left. So long as you do each side at TDC of the compression stroke the results are correct.
 
Many thx for your reply. Just trying to eliminate all the causes that is making my left cylinder intake valve lash going of adjustment. Already replaced the pushrod , spring washers,adjuster and adjust the valves 5/7. My exhaust keeps the lash spec , my intake don't . Only few km and already going noisy , like something clacking. Always opening the gap. I'm getting nuts with this.
 
My exhaust keeps the lash spec , my intake don't . Only few km and already going noisy , like something clacking. Always opening the gap. I'm getting nuts with this.
Is it still in warranty? Regardless, a compression and leak down test are in order, then I’d have the oil analyzed.
 
Is it still in warranty? Regardless, a compression and leak down test are in order, then I’d have the oil analyzed.
Unfortunately isn't under warranty.

Already did a compression test and both sides are good. Compared results with my 2019 , and exactly the same.
 
Unfortunately isn't under warranty.
Already did a compression test and both sides are good. Compared results with my 2019 , and exactly the same.
OK, have the oil analyzed. Assume it's running OK? I don't want to spark fear for you.
 
Ok. Back up the bus please…

Your comments give me significant pause.

What values are we talking about here?

Please, what are the numbers you are talking about?
 
No, what did you set it at, and then what did you read it at, and what was the mileage difference between the two readings.

This is the information I am looking to evaluate for you.
 
No, what did you set it at, and then what did you read it at, and what was the mileage difference between the two readings.

This is the information I am looking to evaluate for you.
Well after only 10/20 milles , and ticking noise coming strong from left side , parked the bike overnight , the exhaust keeps the gap. The intake open up to 0.18mm/0.07
 
Wait, you are not riding it 10-20 miles then opening the valve cover and reading the value on the engine warm or hot are you!

Those readings are only done on a stone cold engine.

Also, you are rotating the engine to line up TDC on the second cylinder, correct?

You do not set them on both sides with the crankshaft in the same place, you do know this I hope?

You have to set TDC (compression stroke) on one side then adjust the valves, then the engine must be rotated to put the opposite cylinder at TDC on compression stroke.

You know this and did this correctly?

Trying to rule out what is actually going on.
 
Wait, you are not riding it 10-20 miles then opening the valve cover and reading the value on the engine warm or hot are you!

Those readings are only done on a stone cold engine.
Looks like he parked overnight then checked. I'm thinking an improper heat treatment on the cam or follower allowing excessive wear. If he can get an oil analysis done it may detect which part is having excessive wear.
 
Wait, you are not riding it 10-20 miles then opening the valve cover and reading the value on the engine warm or hot are you!

Those readings are only done on a stone cold engine.

Also, you are rotating the engine to line up TDC on the second cylinder, correct?

You do not set them on both sides with the crankshaft in the same place, you do know this I hope?

You have to set TDC (compression stroke) on one side then adjust the valves, then the engine must be rotated to put the opposite cylinder at TDC on compression stroke.

You know this and did this correctly?

Trying to rule out what is actually going on.
Yes no worries. I put on TDC the side I'm working . Intake open/close then bring the piston up. Check if there's rockers play. And I adjust them. Rotate the engine 3/4 times , TDC again , and check the gap again.
And yes , i only work on it absolutely Cold .
 
Yes no worries. I put on TDC the side I'm working . Intake open/close then bring the piston up. Check if there's rockers play. And I adjust them. Rotate the engine 3/4 times , TDC again , and check the gap again.
And yes , i only work on it absolutely Cold .
Time for you to seek a dealer. This just isn't normal behavior and indicative of a metallurgy issue.
 
Sound doesn't matter. Clearance is getting larger so components are wearing excessivly. Get it examined by a dealer and replace the bad part(s).
 
Back
Top