V7C gearbox oil

[drbulloch]

How do you check and replace the gearbox oil, as it does not seem to mention it in the manual I have downloaded from here?

 

[rossw]

How do you check and replace the gearbox oil, as it does not seem to mention it in the manual I have downloaded from here?

The drain plug is just in front of the exhaust crossover. The inspection hole is on the right hand side just in front of the footpeg bracket. It is a fairly large and prominent (chrome plated on my bike) hexagon socket plug. Supposedly it is checked by filling to this hole when the bike is vertical, but that way it may or may not be properly filled and the result of not filling properly is wailing noises (more than usual) and gear tooth damage.

I put it on the side stand and measure in 1 litre plus a bit extra.

I'll try and put some photos up later.

 

[Holt]

The drain plug is hidden here

If you can pivot the crossover, you may even be able to screw the plug all the way out.... :blink: :mrgreen:
(The solution is spelled S-t-u-c-c-h-i )

Haven't got a pic of the filler, but you cannot miss the 10 mm hex plug on the right side of the gearbox.
Filling amount is 1 liter, and fill with the bike on the sidestand - no spill that way. You don't need to check the level, there's no way the oil can be consumed.
And as the right gear oil comes in 1 liter bottles ( at least in Europe. Don't know where you're located ), the filling amount wil be correct anyway.

 

[drbulloch]

Thank you, your reply is much appreciated.

 

[sign216]

The crossover is a problem, but you should be able to sneak the plug out. Getting it back in can be hard, but if you fiddle with it you'll find the magic angle that let's it line up.

Also, if my memory is right, the guard for the rear brake gets in the way of the horizontal check plug. It's a pain to remove, and at least one guy just cut a hole in the guard to clear his hex key. A good solution. I'll try to find a pic.

Joe

 

[robbie55]

Ha, I just did this on the weekend myself. Most went smoothly but getting that nut back in is real tricky. I find it you swear a lot out load and curse the poor design it becomes easier. :lol:

The hex bolt (filler hole) can be hard to remove too I noticed someone (perhaps on these forums) had cut the top of a hex key and used it with a 10mm spanner, this may make that part a bit easier. I used a metal pipe over the end of the hex for a bit more leverage.

 

[rossw]

Ha, I just did this on the weekend myself. Most went smoothly but getting that nut back in is real tricky. I find it you swear a lot out load and curse the poor design it becomes easier. :lol:

The hex bolt (filler hole) can be hard to remove too I noticed someone (perhaps on these forums) had cut the top of a hex key and used it with a 10mm spanner, this may make that part a bit easier. I used a metal pipe over the end of the hex for a bit more leverage.

I bought a set of hex key sockets at Maitland Markets. 1/2" drive fits my ratchet spanner and my torque wrench, which also allows me to check the tension on the frame bolts and stuff like that.

 

[sign216]

Another answer is to cut a hole in the shield for the brake, that is limiting access to the plug. One fellow did that, and I'm considering it as well.

 

[mudwasp]

Thanks! I was just wondering about this and had noticed the omission in the manual as well...

 

[icenian]

Another answer is to cut a hole in the shield for the brake, that is limiting access to the plug. One fellow did that, and I'm considering it as well.

Don't want to dissuade anyone from that course of action, but as an alternative, it's pretty easy to move that shield out of the way to get easy access to the plug.

It's held by two bolts. Loosen the rear one slightly, and remove the front one, and it will drop down out of the way. You want an Allen (hex) key for the bolt head and a 10mm (AFAIR) spanner for the nut.

 

[draidt]

Cut a piece off a 10 mm hex wrench with a Dremel tool and use a 10 mm wrench to get acess to the fill/check plug.

 

[oldmanjob]

Space available with Stucchi installed

 

[icenian]

At the risk of looking like a lazy git who couldn't be bothered to find the answer elsewhere on this forum...

What's the point of the stock crossover? Or rather, what's the point of it being so fat, rather than the Stucchi pipe?

 

[draidt]

At the risk of looking like a lazy git who couldn't be bothered to find the answer elsewhere on this forum...

What's the point of the stock crossover? Or rather, what's the point of it being so fat, rather than the Stucchi pipe?

I would venture to say it helps with the EPA noise certification, Stucchi gives it a more pleasing rumble without being obnoxious

 

[sign216]

In the parts diagram it's called an "expansion chamber." Expansion chambers are mainly used in 2 cycle engines, where they alter exhaust pulses to help the engine breath. 4 cycle engines also benefit from exhaust tuning.

Not sure why Guzzi shaped the crossover that way, but it's more expensive than a simple tube, so they must have done for a reason.

Joe

 

[icenian]

Could it be connected with the oxygen sensor? Whether or not it was what they intended, they have put the sensor in a location where there's a greater volume of gas than if it was in a normal pipe, so it must effectively be sampling more gas..?

[attempts to engage brain]

The engine shifts 375ml of gas per exhaust stroke, which is less than the volume of that crossover. So, the crossover contains gas from the last few exhaust strokes, and placing the sensor there means you are sampling the gas from several exhaust strokes.

If the sensor was in a place (like in a header pipe) where it is exposed to a small volume (75ml), it's sampling the gas from the last exhaust stroke.

So the big crossover should have the effect of smoothing out the readings from the sensor..?

Disclaimer: don't listen to me, I'm just a theoretical myrmecologist.

 

[oldmanjob]

Being that I am not a theoretical myrmecologist. :shock: But just a plain old seat of the pantsologist :lol: I can only give you the results of going with the Stucchi crossover along with the charcoal canister removal along with the sump extender and with just having the 6000 mile service by Steve at Moto-Nexus (Valves adjusted, and throttle bodies synced). It seems like a new bike :woohoo: Throttle response is much smoother and faster, the idol is right on the mark, and easy to start, plus my gas mileage has increased by close to 3+ miles per gallon. The bike runs a lot smoother when RPM's are over 4000. The more I ride this bike the more I am becoming one with it.

Bill

 

[rossw]

Being that I am not a theoretical myrmecologist. :shock: But just a plain old seat of the pantsologist :lol: I can only give you the results of going with the Stucchi crossover along with the charcoal canister removal along with the sump extender and with just having the 6000 mile service by Steve at Moto-Nexus (Valves adjusted, and throttle bodies synced). It seems like a new bike :woohoo: Throttle response is much smoother and faster, the idol is right on the mark, and easy to start, plus my gas mileage has increased by close to 3+ miles per gallon. The bike runs a lot smoother when RPM's are over 4000. The more I ride this bike the more I am becoming one with it.

Bill

I suspect the valve clearance adjustment and TB balance would have done most of that.

 

[oldmanjob]

Before the valve adjustment and the TB sync, with the new cross over and charcoal can removed, there was a mark improvement as the throttle response was much smoother and faster, and I gained gas mileage. The valve adjustment and the TB sync just improved what was the first step, the removal.

Bill