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What did I do?

mg_sparky

mg_sparky

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Messages
26
Location
San Diego, CA
Ok looking for some suggestions on where to look next.

I'm working on completing the 25,000 mile service on my 08 Norge (I've completed all the previous services). the Norge ran well prior to the service.

The last two items on my service list are throttle body balance and CO trim. I assembled everything and the Norge won't idle. I connected the VDTS and Manometer. The right hand cylinder appears to be running well the left hand cylinder has significantly less vacuum and the vacuum is erratic, so I suspect the issue is either gas or air on the left side. Visual inception of the fuel line is good. Air path appears clear. I'll probably pull the air box again just to check.

Thoughts/advice appreciated.
 
Presumably it was running properly before you started the service. Is the left spark plug connected properly?
Check for a vacuum leak at your manometer. See if it will idle with Manometer disconnected.
 
Rafael said:
Presumably it was running properly before you started the service. Is the left spark plug connected properly?
Check for a vacuum leak at your manometer. See if it will idle with Manometer disconnected.
Click to expand...

1. It was running properly prior to the service.
2. The plug has a little oil build up but has a good strong spark.
3. No vacuum leak at the manometer. no idle with the manometer out and everything connected correctly.
 
I'm a little surprised about about the slightly oiled spark plug with only 25k miles. Have you emptied out the air box condensate collection tube?

Does it fail to idle both with a hot and cold engine?

If it idles when the engine is hot and not when cold, I would do a stepper motor test (VDST function) and make sure the collection tube is empty.

I'm wondering if you inadvertanly loosened a screw to allow a vacuum leak somewhere like the rubber manifold draw band but that doesn't make sense since you hadn't started balancing the TBs yet.

Have you read about the sacred screw?
 
Rafeal,

1. The air box was cleaned when the air filter was replaced, also drained the collection tube.
2. It fails to idle with both hot and cold engine.
3. The airbox was off to replace the inner plugs. I immediately suspected that a manifold boot wasn't seated properly but have checked it multiple times with an inspection mirror and it appears to be correctly seated and sealed.
4. the sacred screw hasn't been touched (OEM anti-tamper still intact).

I've never done a stepper motor test. I'll do one ... because I haven't and I need to read up on the stepper motor and the testing with the VDTS anyway.

My next step is to pull the air box and double check all the connections including the inner plug seating. Appreciate the help keep your thoughts coming. I'll let you know what I find.
 
John, Good Call. I've got zero compression on the LH Cylinder so the head needs to come off. That's inconvenient.
 
Zero compression would indicate a valve is still open, otherwise your bike would be blowing more smoke than a Kwaka triple.

Double check your tappett clearances first, making sure the piston is at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
Remove outer plug and look inside. Both tappetts should have free play, if not rotate 360 degrees and check again.
If you still have no free play then you've stuffed up.
Watch the inlet rocker as you bring the piston up towards TDC, the inlet valve should have just closed about 30-40 degrees after BDC (bottom dead centre).
 
Sparky,

Definitely reset the clearances first, it is worth a shot. Do not remove the head unless you have a rotational torque gauge to put it back on.
 
John,

The inlet valve is defiantly not closing I can visually see that the valve stem isn't traveling as far as the other three valves (I suspect it's bent). I attempted to reset it 3 or 4 times with the same results.

I've got what I need to remove the head. My concern is that I may have punched a hole in the piston. Unlikely but I won't know until I look.

I made a bone head mistake (I didn't get the nickname of Sparky with out cause) I'm just torqued off that my timing is so poor I really need the bike running this weekend and next week. Well it's not getting fixed chatting about it. I'll let you know how things progress as I can.
 
Sparky, have you backed off the L/H inlet tappett adjuster so it has big clearance. Or is that adjuster screwed in further than the other three. Make sure the valve is able to travel upwards unrestricted.

If the valve is bent, HOW DID IT HAPPEN?
Did you have a big over rev? A bang or clatter?
Or did you adjust left side tappetts with right side piston on TDC? But that doesn't make sense otherwise you would have 5mm tappett clearance. :?
 
Survey says inlet valve bent!

How did it happen? clearly I was not paying attention during the adjustment. I'm guessing I was TDC on the non-firing cycle or maybe I wasn't even near TDC.

Luckily the piston is in good condition and Norge heads are relatively easy to remove. This is an expensive school but I'm getting fairly proficient at taking the Norge apart.

I'll be up and running as soon as the parts come in.

Thank you everyone for walking through this with me.
 

Attachments

  • Bent Valve.jpg
    Bent Valve.jpg
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Be sure to check the guide as well. If damaged, (probably is) you may be able to have a K line inserted to take care of any problem.
 
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