• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Wheel offset and spoke torque specs?

Nedmac briskov

Fired up and twisty
Joined
Nov 30, 2019
Messages
24
Location
United States
A while back I hit a log in the road at about 70mph. Which dented my front rim, and threw my rear wheel out of true. Gonna have to adjust my spokes. anyone know where I can find the wheel offset and spoke torque specs on a 19’-20’ v85tt?
 
Spokes are set up on a truing stand. More an art than a science. I suggest taking or sending the wheel to a shop that specializes in wheel repair. There are several in the US. Also yu might consider this an oppertune time to change to cast wheels.
 
I am able to do the repairs myself, it’d just be nice to know the specs. You can usually get away without the torque specs and go by feel and sound. But particularly the wheel offset would be good to know.

And I’m sticking with spokes because had my wheels been cast, they would have been damaged to an unrideable point. I still daily ride on my my current set as the damage is minimal.
 
If your rim is dented it needs to be replaced. I've built dozens of spoked wheels and never used a torque wrench. There are too many variables that affect spoke preload using the torque spec method.

If you're close to Katy, Texas I can lace up and true a new front rim for you.

Jason
 
If your rim is dented it needs to be replaced. I've built dozens of spoked wheels and never used a torque wrench. There are too many variables that affect spoke preload using the torque spec method.

If you're close to Katy, Texas I can lace up and true a new front rim for you.

Jason
If you were to lace up a new rim for me, where would you obtain the specs for wheel offset?
 
You would need to measure one at your local dealer.
Front wheel seems to be centered------36 spokes & nipples all same pt #
Rear is offset, 18 of 2 sizes, one 5mm longer than the other.
I would just lace them w/parts and make it work, it's not rocket science. Go to dealer & measure.
 
Last edited:
A torque spec on spokes if you could even find it, is useless in reality.

Hub offset is not on every spoke wheel.

What Moto Guzzi wheel are you trying to lace?

Do you really mean “runout”?

I build wheels and true wheels quite frequently.

You work a spoke, skip 2, then the next, skip 2…all the way around.

Some will be tighter than others as you bring the wheel into alignment and minimize lateral runout by setting spoke tensions either inboard or outboard sides.

Once you have that corrected for, you then compensate for vertical runout (hop) in an entirely different way.

If every spoke had a “torque value” and you set every spoke the same, and worked spokes in alternating (180 degree apart spokes) tightening the spokes to the same tension, then the wheel would be crooked as hell.

The tension on a given spoke is not the same across the spokes.

Wheelwright work is an art form and not a torque value.

If you don’t understand this, then I believe that you will never get a wheel true.

Sorry.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top