• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Whistling Norge

Bill Hagan

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
1,710
Location
Above Pott's Camp along Braddock's route, Virginia
In another thread about servicing my Norge — https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/lament-of-an-untalented-but-happy-wrench.15887/ — I mentioned a low-pitched “whistle.”

It's still there. :blush:

Here are two brief vids:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/or816s3skumz5js/2016-04-04 13.08.04.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/smzhp104dw4rehn/2016-04-04 13.08.30.mp4?dl=0

Anyone care to speculate (or say with certainty! :party:) what that (maddening, and at traffic lights, a bit embarrassing :() sound might be?

Thanks.

Bill
 
Last edited:
My guess is you have a hose off or the inlets hoses not all the way on. It seems to be sucking air somewhere.
 
Open your gas cap and see if the noise goes away. Sounds like sucking air. Plugged vent or bad check valve in the vent line. Just my guess.
 
Bill, "whistle while you work" taken to the extreme? Just ignore me, I will eventually go away, might take a few years though...
 
I must admit I listened to the vid, and buggered if I can hear the whistle ( maybe too many k's without earplugs) . Anyway in the past 155,000k's I've had two whistles from my sport, being alternator belt sliping. & exhaust gasket leaking at head which was a result of studs being stripped .( nothing a hellicoil couldn't fix). Might be worth investigating.
 
Grazie to all -- well, except mebbe Tony! :happy: -- for the suggestions.

First noticed this strange sound on way back from national rally in New Hampshire last summer. Interesting, and quite possibly related -- a dealer up there said I had my emissions hoses improperly connected and that they corrected that.

Not so sure now. The dealer was very helpful in other ways to me back on the road, so I am not complaining, just noting. Interesting, too, that my tranny "fuel line" (WHY do they call it that in the parts list?) became a foot or so longer and was hooked into the emissions system! :rolleyes:

Anyway, I changed that out and think I have those hoses connected correctly now. But the sound is still there.

I also did not mention in my "lament" (https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/lament-of-an-untalented-but-happy-wrench.15887/) that I had R&R'd the alternator belt and swapped out the header-pipe studs, along with new gaskets. At this point, Tonym is thinking, "Yup; thought so." And, could be.

That said, I am pretty sure that the belt was installed properly WRT tension and I was especially careful in removing, putting in new, and reinstalling header pipes, studs, and gaskets. Still ... could be.

I will look into the possibility that a hose is not fully seated. I did try opening the gas-cap while running, but no change.

My present plan is to lift the tank enough to pull the two emission hoses at their source, then start 'er up. If the whistle is gone, that will have narrowed the search. If not, maybe I'll just learn how to whistle in harmony. :giggle:

Thanks, again, for the ideas. I'll post any victory.

Bill
 
Last edited:
Listening to it again, the whistles raise and lowers with the revs of the engine. Could be the belt, but in my experience, that usually sounds like a squeal (belt) or bells (bearing/tensioner).

Disconnect the vaccum lines from the 2 Throttle bodies that go to the canister. These are the lines that draw the air from the fuel vapor canister into the throttle bodies to burn. I am guessing something is not hooked up right and you are sucking air back through the check valve. That is the same sound you hear when the bike sits in hot weather and the tank vents through the valve.

If the sounds goes away, then it is time to get rid of the canister and just direct vent. You can just join the two TB together, or plug each one separately to get you going but recommend disconnecting the canister and direct vent to atmosphere.
 
Thanks again.

When I get home from Atlanta next week, I'll test as recommended, but suspect doing the total "evisceration" is in the near future. too.

The #$%^& oil-pressure sensor remains a maddening issue, but nothing duct tape -- over the red dash light! ;) -- can't fix for the short run, anyway. :clap:

Bill
 
Back
Top