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Winterizing for Canada

Discussion in 'Canada & Alaska' started by Robert Kossick, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. Robert Kossick

    Robert Kossick Just got it firing!

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    Hey there, I got my first motorcycle (V7 III) this year and i'm preparing to put it to bed for the winter. I've read a ton of generic advice for winterizing motorcycles, but wanted to check about any specifics for Guzzis in Canadian winters.

    Any advice separating fact from fiction would be appreciated. I have a detached non-heated garage, so on the really cold days, it can get to about -22 in there.

    A bit of what i've read:
    - fill up tank, add fuel stabilizer.
    - oil change before winter and in the spring
    - put bike on center stand or on mats
    - bring battery indoors and put on tender
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  2. NavyDad

    NavyDad Just got it firing!

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    I add stabilizer and fresh gas, oil change if near due if not I don't change it. Bike on center stand if equipped, if not I don't really worry about it. Put battery on a good tender, not necessary to remove from the bike unless you have no power in the garage. Not a good idea to start the bike during the winter unless you can ride it long enough to get it thoroughly warmed up. Just starting and letting it idle for a bit may seem like a good idea, but it causes condensation in the engine and exhaust system. I live in Ohio so I do get the opportunity to get in a winter ride now and then. If you are in an area where you can't get that ride then do the above and don't start the bike.
     
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  3. Moto-Uno

    Moto-Uno Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    If you change oil before storage ( a good idea to rid it of any condensation , etc. ) I like to seal off the
    end of the mufflers to reduce the chances of condensation creeping up past the possibly open exhaust valve.
    Everything else is a good idea ( as NavyDad said ) don't start it during the winter and let it run . Peter
     
  4. Mayakovski

    Mayakovski High Miler GT Famiglia

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    If there are bugs and crawlies near by, then put a few dryer sheets on the ground around it to keep them away. Maye in the end of the pipes as well. That's what I do and never even a bug on the bike.
     
  5. Brett

    Brett Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    my two cents on oil. Change it at the end of the season, that way all the contaminants are out of the engine (that are trapped in the oil) and ready to ride for the following season.
     
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  6. DeadEye

    DeadEye Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    I was just thinking of asking this question !

    In the Honda I used to spray Fogging oil down the intake after shutting off the fuel and running the carbs dry.
    This leaves a thin coat of oil throughout.
    Top up the fuel add stabilizer and take the battery in and put it on the trickle charger ?

    No Carbs on the V7,.
    Can’t “Turn off the fuel”
    Not sure about the fogging oil gumming up the intake tract ? ( it’s quite light and the Honda would “run” on it )
    Same battery plan.
     
  7. Brett

    Brett Tuned and Synch'ed GT Contributor

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    This is the exact technique I use on all my carbureted engines and my fuel injected boat - although I top up the fuel, add the stabilizer then run until hot and fog. I am not sure why I do not fog my motorcycle engine. With Todd's air intake, it would be fairly easy.
     
  8. DeadEye

    DeadEye Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    We’re Canadian Eh !
    Is there any other way ;)
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  9. Skivo

    Skivo Just got it firing!

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    Definitely agree with this approach. Then the bike doesn't sit in old oil for 6 months (or more) and you're one step closer to being ready to ride come spring.

    On the topic of batteries/tenders. Ditto bringing indoors over the winter in your climate, but no need to trickle charge for 6+ months. Just charge it once a month and it'll be fine in the spring. I have buddies who trickle charge all winter and they end up replacing batteries more often. I suspect overcharging is the reason, but I don't know this conclusively. I've had the same battery in my bike since 2011 using the once-per-month charging technique. Next season may be its last season, but it has caused me no issues as of yet, after 9+ years of riding and winterizing each year.

    Covering the pipes is also a good idea to prevent moisture entering the exhaust and, potentially, a cylinder.

    I've often seen it suggested (in manuals an elsewhere) to put a bit of oil inside the cylinders for long-term storage. I do this for easy-to-reach plugs. You'll get some smoke during the first ride.
     
    Mayakovski likes this.
  10. Nordicnorm

    Nordicnorm Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    If your bike is fuel injected, you must ride it after adding stabilizer to the tank, to protect your injectors from getting contaminate over the winter. Just dumping it in the tank is not enough! Then run a good dose of injection cleaner in the spring.
    I say store it with fresh oil to keep the contaminants from combustion from harming the internals of your engine over the winter.
    Start and run is a no-no, unless you can get out and ride it.
    A nice coat of WD-40 all over will serve you well in unheated outside storage.
    I have seen condensation dripping off a previous bike in an outside shed, after a good cold soak, followed by mild weather and heavy west coast rain.
    There is trickle charging, and there is battery tenders. Trickle charging should be intermittent.
    Spring for a proper Battery Tender (3-stage charging; Bulk, Acceptance and Float), and leave it on all winter.
    You'll never miss a beat come spring.
    Enjoy the white stuff!
     
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  11. DeadEye

    DeadEye Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Ok, I put the stabilizer in went out did 30 miles at 42. Degrees and filed er up.
    Now how do I ( like the Honda ) crank it over without starting it to get the Fogging oil through ?
    The Honda will let you crank it with the kill Switch flipped, the V7 knows “Better”...
     
  12. Raven

    Raven High Miler GT Famiglia

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    You can disconnect the fuel pump.
     
  13. DeadEye

    DeadEye Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    When I was working on it Saturday, i got the tank out of the way to finish the SAS pump removal, I could see the fuel line connector and the power, but the connector was way forward.

    I had a 2x6 under the back and a 2x4 under the front holding it up.
    Rerouted the wiring for the grips while I was in there, the tank is Not wedged in place now.

    Disconnecting the spark plugs would be easier.
     
    Last edited: Oct 26, 2020
  14. Nordicnorm

    Nordicnorm Cruisin' Guzzisti GT Contributor

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    I think the idea is to disconnect the electrical power to the fuel pump, rather than disconnecting the fuel line from the pump/tank.
    A couple of revolutions will bleed off the pressure in the fuel line.
    Then you can fog the engine with the throttle wide open without injecting fuel while cranking the engine over.
     
  15. Raven

    Raven High Miler GT Famiglia

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    Yes, exactly.
     
  16. DeadEye

    DeadEye Cruisin' Guzzisti

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    Could I simply disconnect the injectors ? ( power / signal not fuel ;) )

    I haven’t looked at the cabling to see if it’s possible - but it might be more reachable that pulling the full fuel tank.
    It was closer to empty on the weekend when I had it up, precariously balanced on wood blocks...
     

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