• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

WTB Norge

Paul Wilcox

Just got it firing!
Joined
Sep 19, 2021
Messages
2
Location
Redondo Beach, California
Hi MG Fans,

I'm looking to buy a 2012 or newer Norge. I would consider a 2011 IF it has been rollerized.

Food for thought: Would it be so horrible to buy an earlier 4V model? Would the performance difference be THAT noticeable (for an older, slower touring rider like myself)? Could some of the quirks of the older models be upgraded, such as re-positioning the low-slung gauges so you can actually see them??

Anyone?

Paul
 
If you want a 4V it has to be rollerized. Some people actually prefer the older 2V Norge. There is not a lot of difference in performance.
I have a 2012 and love it. (soon to be 62)
There's a beautiful 2015 with only 5,000 miles asking $7,300 USD in Calgary Alberta on kijiji.ca It would be a nice ride home.
 
Last edited:
If you want a 4V it has to be rollerized. Some people actually prefer the older 2V Norge. There is not a lot of difference in performance.
I have a 2012 and love it.
There's a beautiful 2015 with only 5,000 miles asking $7,300 USD in Calgary Alberta on kijiji.ca It would be a nice ride home.


Thanks for the feedback!

So... would a non-rollerized 2V tend to self-destruct? How costly/difficult is it to do the rollerization yourself?
 
IMG 20130809 102039 059 I am 72 and I have had a number of different motorcycles over the years. My absolute favorite? A 2007, 2 valve, Norge that I bought used. I got the bug for a new, not previously owned, motorcycle and sold the Norge. I replaced it with a new 2015 Stelvio. I replaced it a couple of years later with a new Eldorado. I liked the Stelvio and I like the Eldorado. I have liked other bikes in my past. But none have come up to my feelings for the '07 Norge. So much so that last week I bought a 2013, 4 valve, Norge from a friend of mine who has had it since new. I guess my point is that, if you can find a 2 valve Norge that is in good shape for a good price, you will probably be happy with it. It will be plenty fast, it will handle well, look good, and do what you want it to. They are great motorcycles.
 
There was no problem with the 2V engines.

Just the opposite. The 2 valve engines are nearly indestructible. Whatever one you buy, be sure to do the swing arm and shock linkage service. The factory never puts enough grease in the bearings.

First, I have a 2007 firstgen Norge with 85K on it. Just back from (another) ride from the top of Virginia to Tennessee and Georgia. It ran flawlessly. I have been fastidious about routine maintenance. Pic taken at Cherohala Skyway last week ...


i-3HjmhB9-L.jpg



Now ... as for indestructible or even virtually so.

I would NOT buy -- at least without a teardown -- an early Norge with a build date of before May 2007. Mine was November 2006 and one of the first brought into the USA.

Some in that range, including mine, suffered from shoddy oil pumps that led to fracture of the lobes and that led rapidly to seizure. That happened to me in 2008 at about 20K miles -- interestingly, also just on return, two-up, from the Cherohala. I shipped it to MPH in Houston for the under-warranty work that, as a practical matter led to an almost new engine.

Later, also under warranty, my CARC self-destructed when a ten-cent retainer parted within the innards and that led to a new CARC. "For Want of a Nail ...," etc.

Now the units affected by the oil-pump fiasco were few and all known to me were pre-May 2007. [I actually only know of issues arising in pre-March 2007 units; the May instance is, IMO, somewhat questionable]. The CARC issues were also few and similarly limited, but I do not know the range. But both were "exciting" events at the time. :swear:

So, I would have no hesitation in buying a firstgen Norge but only after due diligence in checking to see that any (can't remember what they were!) recalls were done AND not in that very early build-date range.

There is lots of detail about all of this on this forum. Search for details if interested. Think I have summarized all accurately.

Finally, in addition to JZ's comment on lube, I found it necessary to up-gun the rear shock for safe and comfortable operation when two-up at least. Bought that from Todd. The later models from 2008 on had stiffer springs, but, depending on your "fighting weight" and riding style, a new rear shock can't hurt.

Email or call me if need more.

Best,

Bill
404.8ZERO8.848SIX
wrhagan AT earthlink DOT net
 
Back
Top