2012 GT 1200 Norge tail light working but not brake light, connection ok as is fuse but neither hand brake or foot brake light it up? Suggestions
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Anyone looked inside the light unit?
As 12 volts are supplied for both the tail light and brake light there must be some power supply chip inside in order to provide the different voltages to the LEDs.
Very few LEDs will run on a variable voltage of between 12 and 14 volts and still keep a constant illumination. There must be some sort of voltage regulator in there.I thought it was just a series resistor. There is no huge currents involved here.
Very few LEDs will run on a variable voltage of between 12 and 14 volts and still keep a constant illumination. There must be some sort of voltage regulator in there.
I discovered a similar problem yesterday. I left work a little later than usual - I don't ride in the dark much this time of year. A guy pulled up next to me at a traffic light and said "You have no tail light." "OK, thanks," I said, "I'll check it out." He was right.
2008 Norge.
Tail light does not work.
Brake lights work.
Turn signals work.
License plate light works.
Tail light and front parking lights work with the ignition switch in the Park position.
Looking at the wiring diagram it appears to me it must be a bad contact in the ignition switch. Any other ideas? Anyone seen this before?
2008 Norge.
Tail light does not work.
Brake lights work.
Turn signals work.
License plate light works.
Tail light and front parking lights work with the ignition switch in the Park position.
Looking at the wiring diagram it appears to me it must be a bad contact in the ignition switch. Any other ideas? Anyone seen this before?
Kiwi Dave, my understanding of ohms law is that if you add a series resistor to an LED with a constant supply voltage you reduce the voltage across the LED. It becomes a potential divider. You will also reduce the current flowing as the total circuit resistance will have increased.
Those LEDs with the series resistor are made to give the max allowed voltage across the LED. Reduce that voltage and the LED dims.
I made up an LED tail light using several banks of 5 in series. It worked fine, but I had a problem if the battery volts dropped, and the indicator was flashing, as tested for our MOT. The LEDs dimmed as the indicator flashed (dropping the voltage).
Agree. It has to be internal to the ignition switch. You could try contact cleaner or lots of wiggling to see it you can clear it. Hope that the switch itself can be separated from the lock mechanism.
Can you confirm that the front park lights are defunct when the ignition switch is in the run position?
You might be able to do a bodge by stealing power for the taillight from the license plate circuit. However, there may be unexpected consequences.