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100 Mile Impressions / Questions

I own a single TB 2015 and weigh 235. just because it can doesn't mean you should.

Maybe you live in the mountains or somewhere with excessive heat, but around here 3k is seriously fine, not even remotely lugging it under most conditions.

Just cause it might be for you doesn't mean it is for everyone.
 
Maybe you live in the mountains or somewhere with excessive heat, but around here 3k is seriously fine, not even remotely lugging it under most conditions.

Just cause it might be for you doesn't mean it is for everyone.

Alright, RPM flame war success! :devil: (kidding, good points all)

Now, onto another question about fueling (BTW we are at 200 miles now, fully inspected, camping trip this weekend to Western MA)

Anyone else notice that the V7II is surge-happy around 4K? Feels like the TPS is just on the cusp with my pace of city riding ... 1 degree can be the difference between smooth and jerk-city ("all I need is this throttle ... and this tire ... and this seat")

I'm thinking that the GT DIY mapper is the way to go once the money comes in ... anyone have experience with this issue? Todd's reflash on a V7II?

Also ... gas mileage to be different during break-in? Maybe all my rev climbing, etc has gotten the better of me ... a full tank got me about 160 miles before fuel light came on.

Thanks everyone!
 
160 is pretty good milage.

There's a whole thread dedicated to testimonies regarding the GTRX map tool. It's the best way to go.
 
160 is pretty good milage.

There's a whole thread dedicated to testimonies regarding the GTRX map tool. It's the best way to go.

Mileage depends on how much fuel he put in after that. My low fuel light comes on at exactly 4 gallons used so that's normally 200-220 miles.

As for the "best way to go" that might be because this website actively deletes alternate suggestions.
 
Mileage depends on how much fuel he put in after that. My low fuel light comes on at exactly 4 gallons used so that's normally 200-220 miles.

As for the "best way to go" that might be because this website actively deletes alternate suggestions.

Yep, store and forum breeds that... I personally haven't really zone across the issue yet, and I could tune at home with a little help but Todd offers a service that is quantifiably (words?) Cheaper than learning how to tune ecu from scratch.

The alternative seems to involve a dyno and a mentor and a power commander or similar set up... Could easily be 1000 before I even learn to tune efi

Unless anyone has a quicker idea
 
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2016 V7ii, GTRx re-flashed, with open aftermarket mufflers, air filter, and fast riding in twisties with some WOT, my fuel light came on at 240km. Rode to 280km before gas stop. Lots in the tank still..
 
First 120mi. Impressions. First 40-50 mi. It shook like a dog shiting peach pits ! Keeping between 2.5&4k rpm . It smoothed out some in the next 50mi. & is getting smoother . suspension is punishing . Brakes aren't seated yet & I don't expect them to be as I hardly use them (all they do is sloe you down). Trans. & controls are fine . paint on my stone shows the price point strategy ,a minor issue as its getting painted this winter . I bought this as a lighter easier to maneuver bike to my BMW1200r ,so the suspension comparison is not valid. That said 100-600 mi. Isn't really time to form accurate impressions as things aren't even close to broken in,maybe tires. This is not my first Guzzi but you can't compare a 1980 vehicle to a 2016 of any kind bike,car ,aircraft etc. IHMO 25k is an adequate & thurogh period (BMW ECU's re-map @ this mi. ) that said consider this with the few grain of salt it's worth ! Why am I doing this ? I'm going riding sunny&45deg. Warming to 60 see ya!!
 
Mileage depends on how much fuel he put in after that. My low fuel light comes on at exactly 4 gallons used so that's normally 200-220 miles.

As for the "best way to go" that might be because this website actively deletes alternate suggestions.
That may be true, but for me there was no V7ii alternative one year ago...and that looks to be the case presently.
 
First 120mi. Impressions. First 40-50 mi. It shook like a dog shiting peach pits ! Keeping between 2.5&4k rpm . It smoothed out some in the next 50mi. & is getting smoother . suspension is punishing . Brakes aren't seated yet & I don't expect them to be as I hardly use them (all they do is sloe you down). Trans. & controls are fine . paint on my stone shows the price point strategy ,a minor issue as its getting painted this winter . I bought this as a lighter easier to maneuver bike to my BMW1200r ,so the suspension comparison is not valid. That said 100-600 mi. Isn't really time to form accurate impressions as things aren't even close to broken in,maybe tires. This is not my first Guzzi but you can't compare a 1980 vehicle to a 2016 of any kind bike,car ,aircraft etc. IHMO 25k is an adequate & thurogh period (BMW ECU's re-map @ this mi. ) that said consider this with the few grain of salt it's worth ! Why am I doing this ? I'm going riding sunny&45deg. Warming to 60 see ya!!


put some duct tape over that tach and go ride it like it's meant to be ridden. keep ridding it that low of an RPM and it might just fall apart.
 
After 45+years of fixing other peoples screw-ups I have a certain but skeptical respect for engineers .I started In 1969 @ AMC/jeep &over the next decade or 2 saw service depts. GM , Toyota,Nissan & Mopar franchises . During the last part of my working life was @ a municipal facility of a med. Sized city . For recreation I was active in NASCAR,SCCA & NHRA events usually in prep or pit crew levels! As a m/c enthusiast I've covered over 300,000k mi between a number of different brands. That said I'll be relatively conservative w/"topo gigo" for the first few mi. Then work up to its potential as I am now retired and working my goal of a half a million mi. As this isn't my first Guzzi (earlier sp1000) I think I'll keep the tpe off the tach fee now .Oh @ 400+mi. I'm slowly raising rev ceiling & as temps increase suspension is a bit more compliant (first wk. & 250 mi. Temps were in mid 30's) god I love spring more each year. But wouldn't miss ice racing either, its a good warm-up for Daytona flat track. See ya on the road or @ rally
 
Yo,jpv7 I couldn't agree w/you more . I looked for about 2 yrs and rode many different bikes . I know its considered a "nich bike" I think it fills a number of rolls ,as is evidenced by this forum . back road scratchers & serious sporting types, tour & sport tourers ,and commuter types and every thing in between! My boy racer days are behind me but I can still get the undivided ATTN. Of law enforcement if I choose . looking forward to a long friendship w/"topo GIGO" . If you remember the Ed Sullivan show you'll understand ,you younger folks can google "topo GIGO"
 
put some duct tape over that tach and go ride it like it's meant to be ridden. keep ridding it that low of an RPM and it might just fall apart.
Reminds me of my old friend Al Gillen, who owned Williamsville Ducati in upstate New York...he sold Ducati, Moto Guzzi, KTM, Husqvarna. He was an old school guy, a little rough around the edges. A straight shooter, he told you exactly what he thought..I loved the guy (he has since passed).
I was fairly new to bikes, and had just bought a 1997 Ducatti Supersport 900 from him. I asked about the proper break-in procedure, and he looked up from what he was doing and said "Run the shit out of it, and bring it back if it breaks". Now I didn't go out and run it to redline, but I didn't baby it either. it was fine. Did the same with my V7ii, and it seems ok too.
 
the 3 miles on every new bike is from when they take it from the assembly line onto their test circuit. they are not driving it conservatively.
in addition most new products with engines are hooked up to a computer and run through all running scenarios including red line. once into fourth gear the engine is lugging at your RPM's. the best ring seating will be from normal ridding. variety.
 
A 900 as Duc is a great bike its racing heritage is evident in that its so service friendly. Clutches &timing belts can easily be serviced between track sessions ,not to mention tire & chassis settings a true race bike w/lights . I haven't been lugging Lil topo GIGO any low rpm running was done w/low or no load ,running on level ground or coasting downhill.What goes down must also come up.first couple hundred miles.easy throttle used &short duty cycles. And just being me I had my trusty infrared thermometer w/me to monitor cyl. head temps. Your not the first person to call me anal ! Today's 100 miler included short highway section a variable speeds &loads & some twisty stuff, it loves to rail corners (who doesn't). Head temps after 7mi. @ 75-80 held consistent ,air temps in the low 40s. A few trips into the 6k area under med. Load @a few 3.5-5.5 k runs under heavier loads have me @ 550mi. Oil consumption has been nil . right after the first service a cyl. Leak down test will be done along w/a mech.oil pressure test.to establish a base line of conditions. That way along w/used oil annasis a wear profile can be plotted & a preventive maint. Schedule established . This system has worked in racing & fleet operations that I've been involved with . if you know of a better sys. I'm always trying to improve & learn .
 
Oops I almost forgot ,those short term factory flogs didn't catch the rash of thrust bearing failures.we can't be all things to all people. I just swing for the fences ,&do the best we can .
 
Oops I almost forgot ,those short term factory flogs didn't catch the rash of thrust bearing failures.we can't be all things to all people. I just swing for the fences ,&do the best we can .

Well not for nothing but with your experience I think you would see how that's almost a straw man argument.

I mean, flogging a new bike to ensure the rings seat has little to do with whether or not that load would reveal a weakness in the crankshaft thrust bearing (or lack thereof that would cause the shaft to start wearing into the block).

Certainly success at seating the new rings would not change the situation at the crank no more than a lack of a problem at the crank would cause a problem with the rings.

So they are basically completely irrelevant to each other.
 
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