robertllr
Tuned and Synch'ed
According to Gutsibits ... (here)
http://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheSh...Nevada+750+(2004-2013)&Cat=CAA&CatName=Cables ...
The clutch cable for the 2013 V7-R , part number 883940, has 145 mm of free length.
I'm not sure where this free length is measured from, but here is a pic of the free length of my cable...
You can just barely see that the calipers are opened to 145 mm. You can also see a good 10 mm of extra inner cable length.
Now either (a)the specs are wrong, (b) I'm measuring from the wrong place, or (c) I've got 10 mm of stretch in my cable.
I should also point out that the handlebar adjuster was run out all the way, (the bike has only about 2000) miles on it) and clutch engagement/disengagement was taking place with the clutch lever end barely 3/4 inch from the grip.
On top of that, the clutch pull is the stiffest I have every encountered in any bike (by a country parsec) that I've owned or ridden--including what I always felt (until now) was a bear trap on my 1968 Triumph Bonneville.
I am amazed and dismayed that the engineers have a metal ferule on this cable that forces it into a 90 degree bend--right at the bars. The cable is then forced to follow the most tortuous route to get to the clutch actuating arm. The stiction in my removed and unloaded cable is very high; In use and under tension, it must be an order of magnitude worse.
Heavy clutch actuation was a common complaint from testers--and now I can see why.
What the pics don't show are several kinks as well as cuts in the outer sheathing where the cable was forced past the headlight ears, between the forks, over the river and through the woods.
Then, when the poor thing finally gets to the arm...THERE IS NO ADJUSTER AT THAT END!!!!
I have wrenched and owned dozens of bikes and I have never seen--till now--a set up without an adjuster at the lower end of the clutch cable. I'm pretty sure the only reason I could get the cable off in the first place is because either its' stretched or (heaven forbid!) my clutch is already wearing out.
So I'm thinking the only way I'll ever get a new cable in is by applying forward pressure to the clutch arm, thereby disengaging the clutch and creating enough slack to slip the cable end into the fork.
So, any help here? How do Guzzistis change their clutch cables?
P.S.: While the parts book shows an adjusting screw between the arm and the clutch rod, (a) I don't' think that will give me any more cable slack; and (b) How the blazes does one get to it???
http://www.gutsibits.co.uk/pr/TheSh...Nevada+750+(2004-2013)&Cat=CAA&CatName=Cables ...
The clutch cable for the 2013 V7-R , part number 883940, has 145 mm of free length.
I'm not sure where this free length is measured from, but here is a pic of the free length of my cable...
You can just barely see that the calipers are opened to 145 mm. You can also see a good 10 mm of extra inner cable length.
Now either (a)the specs are wrong, (b) I'm measuring from the wrong place, or (c) I've got 10 mm of stretch in my cable.
I should also point out that the handlebar adjuster was run out all the way, (the bike has only about 2000) miles on it) and clutch engagement/disengagement was taking place with the clutch lever end barely 3/4 inch from the grip.
On top of that, the clutch pull is the stiffest I have every encountered in any bike (by a country parsec) that I've owned or ridden--including what I always felt (until now) was a bear trap on my 1968 Triumph Bonneville.
I am amazed and dismayed that the engineers have a metal ferule on this cable that forces it into a 90 degree bend--right at the bars. The cable is then forced to follow the most tortuous route to get to the clutch actuating arm. The stiction in my removed and unloaded cable is very high; In use and under tension, it must be an order of magnitude worse.
Heavy clutch actuation was a common complaint from testers--and now I can see why.
What the pics don't show are several kinks as well as cuts in the outer sheathing where the cable was forced past the headlight ears, between the forks, over the river and through the woods.
Then, when the poor thing finally gets to the arm...THERE IS NO ADJUSTER AT THAT END!!!!
I have wrenched and owned dozens of bikes and I have never seen--till now--a set up without an adjuster at the lower end of the clutch cable. I'm pretty sure the only reason I could get the cable off in the first place is because either its' stretched or (heaven forbid!) my clutch is already wearing out.
So I'm thinking the only way I'll ever get a new cable in is by applying forward pressure to the clutch arm, thereby disengaging the clutch and creating enough slack to slip the cable end into the fork.
So, any help here? How do Guzzistis change their clutch cables?
P.S.: While the parts book shows an adjusting screw between the arm and the clutch rod, (a) I don't' think that will give me any more cable slack; and (b) How the blazes does one get to it???