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2007 Breva 750 electrical problems

Pull the dash connector again and see if there is any voltage on the red wire wire to ground on the battery. If there is that means the power is coming from somewhere other than the dash. If there is no power to ground that means the power is coming from pin 30 on the dash and there is an issue with the dash. There should not be any power there when the key is off. I am still assuming the ground for that circuit is at the dash so this will compensate for that.

I will have to look at a Nevada dash output I am assuming they are the same but I don't know at this time.
 
OK, this is going to get confusing now as the Nevada dash has two different pin out depending on the year and model. How many pins are on the dash/connector. One model has 26 and the other has 30. From the picture it looks like 30 but confirm that. That is good news if it does as it will be the same as the Breva dash (may even have been that from the factory). Just want to make sure before we start making assumptions in the pin out. Do the colours on the connector match the drawing that was posted (attached.)
 

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canuck1969 said:
Pull the dash connector again and see if there is any voltage on the red wire wire to ground on the battery. If there is that means the power is coming from somewhere other than the dash. If there is no power to ground that means the power is coming from pin 30 on the dash and there is an issue with the dash. There should not be any power there when the key is off. I am still assuming the ground for that circuit is at the dash so this will compensate for that.

I will have to look at a Nevada dash output I am assuming they are the same but I don't know at this time.
Click to expand...

I get nothing from the solid red wire, full battery voltage from the two red/white on the other side of the connector
 
canuck1969 said:
OK, this is going to get confusing now as the Nevada dash has two different pin out depending on the year and model. How many pins are on the dash/connector. One model has 26 and the other has 30. From the picture it looks like 30 but confirm that. That is good news if it does as it will be the same as the Breva dash (may even have been that from the factory). Just want to make sure before we start making assumptions in the pin out. Do the colours on the connector match the drawing that was posted (attached.)
Click to expand...
Yes it's a 30 pin, I'm not sure if I'm reading the colors right off that pdf, I don't know what color ar/n is
 

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Loki610 said:
Ok I've got the connecter off at the back of the dash, is there an easy way to remove that wire without wrecking the connector?
Click to expand...

Slipping a thin jeweller's screwdriver down the side of the connector can often release the catch that holds it in. Be gentle.


Loki610 said:
Using a wire to go from the red to the ground the lights do not come on.
Click to expand...

OK, I'm curious what you mean by this. Are you saying that when you short pin 30 of the connector to ground using a wire, the lights do not come on? What happens when you remove the wire? And then replace it? Do the lights come on and off with and without the wire?

I think it may be beneficial to check the ground wires at the tail light, that the ground (black) wire for the tail light and the indicators are all connected together, and are also connected to ground.
 
kiwi dave said:
Slipping a thin jeweller's screwdriver down the side of the connector can often release the catch that holds it in. Be gentle.




OK, I'm curious what you mean by this. Are you saying that when you short pin 30 of the connector to ground using a wire, the lights do not come on? What happens when you remove the wire? And then replace it? Do the lights come on and off with and without the wire?

I think it may be beneficial to check the ground wires at the tail light, that the ground (black) wire for the tail light and the indicators are all connected together, and are also connected to ground.
Click to expand...
That was from the unhooked harness, using a wire from pin 30 to a ground
 
Loki610 said:
I get nothing from the solid red wire, full battery voltage from the two red/white on the other side of the connector
Click to expand...

Ok. ThAt means that the power for the light is most likely coming from the actual dash. Those reading are correct.

Jumping the red wire to ground will not do anything. Good thing there was no power there as your u would have blown a fuse. That would have shorted the power to ground.

I suspect you have a short in the dash. Most likely corrosion but you u will need to verify that.

Check continuity on the actual dash between pin 30 and each of the two red/white wires. If you have continuity between 30 and one of those wires then the dash is an issue. Will be easier to do it with the connector plugged in if you can get the probe in the back of the connector.

If you can't get a probe on the back of the connector, then just check for continuity on the actual dash pins between pin 30 (red wire) and pin 29 or 27 (both of the red/white wires) on the dash pins.

Let me know what u find. If the short is there my first tool is always a screw driver handle. A few good wacks on the back of the dash by the connector may loosen something up. Highly technical I know. But u never know.

Also inspects the actual pins on the dash and just makes something is not bent.

If there is a short in the dash (which I suspect), only course of action is to replace, or take it apart. You may see something obvious in it like corrosion between circuits trails for those pins. That can be fixed by just cleaning it up.
 
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I'm coming from another angle. I suspect your indicators are getting fed from the tail light and perhaps the headlight not having a proper ground connection putting them effectively in series with the RH indicators. Because the wattage of the tail light and headlight are much higher than the indicators, most of the voltage is accumulated across the indicators.

For an experiment, try removing the tail light and the headlight bulbs. I'll bet the indicators stop glowing.
 
Dave, he checked the voltage on the right hand red signal wire removed from the dash and it was zero to ground (and the lights were off when it was disconnected, which makes sense since there is no power). The power has to be coming from the dash itself but he has to confirm that. The signal light is on without the key being on. All that power you are talking about is switched power either through a relay (which he removed and the light stayed on) or the ignition switch (which the light is still on when the switch is off). Unless I am missing something in the wiring logic??

If the right signal pin has continuity to the un-switched power pins in the dash then we know it is the dash.
 
I'm not sure about the function of the dashboard. Pin 50 supplies the electrickery for the RH indicators, but when the indicators are switched off, does the dashboard provide a ground or just a high impedance? I'm suspecting a ground.

Removing the tail light and headlight bulbs would confirm or deny my thinking.
 
kiwi dave said:
I'm not sure about the function of the dashboard. Pin 50 supplies the electrickery for the RH indicators, but when the indicators are switched off, does the dashboard provide a ground or just a high impedance? I'm suspecting a ground.

Removing the tail light and headlight bulbs would confirm or deny my thinking.
Click to expand...

Agree. Worth a try to see what happens.

Not sure I follow on the resistance (impedance is AC current). I don't think the dash is that complicated. Looks like a solid state relay somewhere in the dash circuits providing the current to 30 when the switch is thrown to the right. The grounds look like general grounds and not switched.

Either way worth eliminating. I am still betting on an internal short between 30 and an Unswitched power in the dash. If it was a ground issue would not both sides be on as they share a common ground? I could be wrong.
 
canuck1969 said:
Ok. ThAt means that the power for the light is most likely coming from the actual dash. Those reading are correct.

Jumping the red wire to ground will not do anything. Good thing there was no power there as your u would have blown a fuse. That would have shorted the power to ground.

I suspect you have a short in the dash. Most likely corrosion but you u will need to verify that.

Check continuity on the actual dash between pin 30 and each of the two red/white wires. If you have continuity between 30 and one of those wires then the dash is an issue. Will be easier to do it with the connector plugged in if you can get the probe in the back of the connector.

If you can't get a probe on the back of the connector, then just check for continuity on the actual dash pins between pin 30 (red wire) and pin 29 or 27 (both of the red/white wires) on the dash pins.

Let me know what u find. If the short is there my first tool is always a screw driver handle. A few good wacks on the back of the dash by the connector may loosen something up. Highly technical I know. But u never know.

Also inspects the actual pins on the dash and just makes something is not bent.

If there is a short in the dash (which I suspect), only course of action is to replace, or take it apart. You may see something obvious in it like corrosion between circuits trails for those pins. That can be fixed by just cleaning it up.
Click to expand...

I can't get the probe in the back of the connector while it's plugged in, by checking the pins I get 17.3k ohm between both of the red/white and the solid red. Hitting the dash with a rubber mallet didn't seem to do anything either.

Now with the dash off I can get to the pins easier and I'm getting a reading of 30.7 between them and 19.6 between the two red/white
 
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kiwi dave said:
I'm not sure about the function of the dashboard. Pin 50 supplies the electrickery for the RH indicators, but when the indicators are switched off, does the dashboard provide a ground or just a high impedance? I'm suspecting a ground.

Removing the tail light and headlight bulbs would confirm or deny my thinking.
Click to expand...

With head and tail light removed still the same issue. As soon as I reconnect the battery the dash lights up, signals come on, then dash seems to power down but lights stay on.

Dash is now removed for easier testing. I can't seem to get the two halves to separate after taking out all the screws, is there some trick to it?
 
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Well damn.

Those resistances basically say there is no connection. And not a ground issue as Dave suggested.

At this point we know the power for the light is coming from the dash since u tested the red wire and there was no power when it was disconnected.

Problem now is that we are dealing with an unknown in the dash that we cannot test. There must be something in the dash that flips the power to the red wire when connected (making ground??)

Have on thing left to try. I wonder if the dash is making the ground for the lights and there is still a short in the line. Disconnect the dash and srun a jumper wire from the front and rear right hand signal lights to the ground at the battery. Ground should be the blue wire. Do one at a time. If the light come on with the key off then we know it is not the dash. If they don't then that only leaves the dash as the issue.
 
canuck1969 said:
Well damn.

Those resistances basically say there is no connection. And not a ground issue as Dave suggested.

At this point we know the power for the light is coming from the dash since u tested the red wire and there was no power when it was disconnected.

Problem now is that we are dealing with an unknown in the dash that we cannot test. There must be something in the dash that flips the power to the red wire when connected (making ground??)

Have on thing left to try. I wonder if the dash is making the ground for the lights and there is still a short in the line. Disconnect the dash and srun a jumper wire from the front and rear right hand signal lights to the ground at the battery. Ground should be the blue wire. Do one at a time. If the light come on with the key off then we know it is not the dash. If they don't then that only leaves the dash as the issue.
Click to expand...

Probably a stupid question but do you mean the blue wire in the harness? Or the - pole of the battery?
 
Loki610 said:
Probably a stupid question but do you mean the blue wire in the harness? Or the - pole of the battery?
Click to expand...

Sorry. Brain working faster than my fingers.

Run a wire from the ground wire at the actual signal lights to the -ve post of the battery. The ground wire at the lights should be blue.

Disconnect the dash connector when u do it.
 
canuck1969 said:
Sorry. Brain working faster than my fingers.

Run a wire from the ground wire at the actual signal lights to the -ve post of the battery. The ground wire at the lights should be blue.

Disconnect the dash connector when u do it.
Click to expand...

Nothing, no light
 
Ok. We have tested pretty much all the potential causes and it looks like the dash is the reason. There is no other possible reason I can see.

If it were my bike I would start to look for a used one on eBay. They are available from what I can see. Other option is u can send it out for repair. Only place I know of is in the Netherlands but by the time you get it back and the expense of doing it you can probably get one on the net.

Next thing I would do it take apart the dash and see if you can see something obvious inside. Most likely corrosion as that is common on some of these dashes. It may be something u can fix but no way to tell until u get it apart.

Sorry for the not so good news but you are not the first that has had to replace it. I have a brand new one for my Stelvio waiting for the stock on to fail. Got it under warranty as the stock one had some water in it. So far has not failed.
 
Is there any possibility it could be a problem with the controls on the handlebars? At this point I'm $2000 in repairs on this bike and only rode it 3 times. I can't afford to buy anymore parts at this time.
I guess I can always pull the lights out of the right side and use hand signals when turning right!
 
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