2007 Breva 750 electrical problems

[Loki610]

please help! I'm not electrically inclined and this stuff really frustrates me!

So I bought a used 2007 breva 750 for a steal of a deal ($1000) with only 9000km on it, little did I know the stator and regulator was fried!
I got that replaced and everything seemed to be fine, I last rode it 7 days ago. I get home last night from work and I notice the oil light and N light are flashing as well as the right side signals are on steady not blinking. I go get the key and try to start it and the battery is dead. I hook up my battery tender overnight on 2a and still nothing, no power. Brought home a proper charger from work today, checked battery voltage and it was 4.3 volts, hooked up charger and the right side signal lights come on again. Unplugged a harness under the seat and the lights went out. Let the battery charge, reconnected harness and tried to start bike, relays clicking as soon as key is turned (bad relay?). I've pulled the 4 small L5A relays as well as the square Helle 12v thing and I'll try to order replacements.
Once all the relays were removed I reconnected the harness to try the lights, headlight worked, left signals worked properly, but the right side still stayed on without blinking.
Does this sound like a relay issue? Or do I have a different issue such as a short somewhere?

 

[kiwi dave]

Both right hand side signals going (but not blinking), or only one?

 

[scottmastrocinque]

The high resolution version of this file is in DOWNLOADS, as well as the repair manual. To get access to them both, click your profile and upgrade your membership. For a few dollars, you will have some invaluable tools and help support the site as well.

As to your problem, my very first inclination is to ask you about the battery itself. Was it a new battery you bought and installed or the one that was in the bike when you bought it? A defective battery can cause all of the symptoms you are listing.

If the stator and regulator were fried, then the battery was fried too. The fact that it gave you different readings of 4.3v and 0v tells me that it is almost certainly sulfated and toast.

I suggest you stop trying to do anything with the bike with that battery, and replace it, then see if all of your problems don't vanish.

Good Luck!

 

[Loki610]

Both right hand side signals going (but not blinking), or only one?

Both

It was a new battery I got in September when I bought the bike, stator and regulator were already fried and I rode the bike on battery power alone before I discovered that so it got drained pretty good once already!
I'll go to town today and get a new battery, see if that helps.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

please help! I'm not electrically inclined and this stuff really frustrates me!

.... I've pulled the 4 small L5A relays as well as the square Helle 12v thing and I'll try to order replacements.
Once all the relays were removed I reconnected the harness to try the lights, headlight worked, left signals worked properly, but the right side still stayed on without blinking.

Does this sound like a relay issue? Or do I have a different issue such as a short somewhere?

Please STOP pulling apart connectors and yanking out relays. You are going to create an impossible situation for sure.

I hope you can put everything back exactly the way it was. I am going to strongly caution you that when working with problems of this nature, precise and detailed notes need to be taken of every thing you do and what the net result of that thing was. Photos are outstanding supplements as well but again, there is no way around WRITING down what you did, date, time, exact action, exact result.

You only change or try ONE THING AT A TIME, otherwise you will have so many variables in play, God couldn't figure it out!

First thing though, a fresh, new, fully charged battery.

 

[Loki610]

Ok I just put in a brand new motobatt and the dash lights are no longer flashing with the ignition off, bike starts and runs fine. Except those damn right side signals are still in an always on position! Even with the key out they stay on, which explains my dead battery. Must be a short or something somewhere.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

Okay, we're making progress.

I presume that you have since disconnected the negative cable from the battery to avoid draining the battery dead. Yes? Good.

Now, by convention, right and left sides of the motorcycle are defined as when you are sitting upon the motorcycle in the normal riding position.

Are we still talking about both right hand turn signals?

 

[scottmastrocinque]

There should be two wire connectors under the headlight tightly secured with zip ties. Both the right & left front signals wires are stressed from turning the handle bar. Check there for a break and short first. Clean them and re-secure with zip ties.

 

[Loki610]

Okay, we're making progress.

I presume that you have since disconnected the negative cable from the battery to avoid draining the battery dead. Yes? Good.

Now, by convention, right and left sides of the motorcycle are defined as when you are sitting upon the motorcycle in the normal riding position.

Are we still talking about both right hand turn signals?

Yes and yes

 

[Loki610]

There should be two wire connectors under the headlight tightly secured with zip ties. Both the right & left front signals wires are stressed from turning the handle bar. Check there for a break and short first. Clean them and re-secure with zip ties.

I'll check those tomorrow, due to current thunderstorm working electrical on the driveway probably not a good idea lol. At a quick glance they looked fine.

 

[kiwi dave]

There's a red wire from the instrument panel (pin 30) that feeds the front and rear right hand signals directly. I suggest you disconnect the connector to the instrument panel, and if the right signals are still on, then there's somehow some other reason the 12v is getting to the two right hand indicators.

If the indicators are not active with the instrument panel connector removed, it is the instrument panel itself that is somehow still feeding them when it shouldn't. To confirm this, you need to remove the red wire only out of the instrument panel connector (that same pin 30). If the indicators are not active with the red pin 30 wire disconnected, it has to be the instrument panel itself.

I hope this makes sense. It might start to get expensive after this confirmation.

 

[canuck1969]

Is it only the front indicators. If it is does not look like it could be the panel. The panel feeds both the front and rear at the same time. At least according to the drawing.

When you do turn the signals on when the bike is running do they flash.

 

[Loki610]

Is it only the front indicators. If it is does not look like it could be the panel. The panel feeds both the front and rear at the same time. At least according to the drawing.

When you do turn the signals on when the bike is running do they flash.

Both signals on the right stay on steady when the bike is running, no flashing when activated.

 

[canuck1969]

OK, the right hand side signals have one common wire between the front and back that gets power from the instrument panel. They both have separate grounds that may terminate back at the instrument panel but hard to say as the drawing does is not clear on that. It shows a chassis ground but I have found that for some of those, instead of showing it running back to the panel, it just shows the line ending at a ground.

The simplest thing to do at this point (without a meter) is to pull the connectors from the instrument panel as Kiwi Dave suggested. Only issue is I am not sure if the ground also goes back to the panel. If it does, then if the lights go out you don't know if it is a short other than the panel, or because you pulled the ground out.

If you can pull just the signal wire from the dash plug then do that but it is not always that easy to do.

If you can't then you will need to pull the dash connector and add a jumper from the signal light ground wire (at the signal connector) to a chassis ground. If the lights don't come on, then you know it is the panel (because you removed the +ve feed). If the lights come on, then you know the short is somewhere else other than the panel.

 

[canuck1969]

Looking at this again, make sure pin 29 and 30 wires on the back of the dash are not touching each other somehow or bridging over. 30 is the right signal output and 29 is the power supply for the dash. If they are somehow touching, it would cause your issue as the lights would get a constant power supply even with the key off. 29 is a un-switched power source directly from the battery. Would be a red (30) and red/white (29) wire. Give them a good wiggle and see if the lights go out or at least flicker a bit.

Can't see it being an internal fault with the dash as it did not even get the signal to fire. Even if the internal signal was stuck in the on position, it would not work with the key off. There would be no power since that side of the panel is on switched power (pin 4) through the key switch.

 

[Loki610]

OK, the right hand side signals have one common wire between the front and back that gets power from the instrument panel. They both have separate grounds that may terminate back at the instrument panel but hard to say as the drawing does is not clear on that. It shows a chassis ground but I have found that for some of those, instead of showing it running back to the panel, it just shows the line ending at a ground.

The simplest thing to do at this point (without a meter) is to pull the connectors from the instrument panel as Kiwi Dave suggested. Only issue is I am not sure if the ground also goes back to the panel. If it does, then if the lights go out you don't know if it is a short other than the panel, or because you pulled the ground out.

If you can pull just the signal wire from the dash plug then do that but it is not always that easy to do.

If you can't then you will need to pull the dash connector and add a jumper from the signal light ground wire (at the signal connector) to a chassis ground. If the lights don't come on, then you know it is the panel (because you removed the +ve feed). If the lights come on, then you know the short is somewhere else other than the panel.

Ok I've got the connecter off at the back of the dash, is there an easy way to remove that wire without wrecking the connector? Using a wire to go from the red to the ground the lights do not come on.

 

[Loki610]

Picture

 

[canuck1969]

No, no easy way to get the wire out. There is usually a tab. Don't try to hard or you will break the connector and then you will have bigger issues.


Look at my last post. The wire right next to the red one is a live wire with constant power. Put the plug back in and give them a wiggle. Do the lights flicker or go out?

Do you have access to a volt meter?

 

[Loki610]

Nothing happens from the wiggle, just stays on solid. Yes I have a volt meter.

 

[Loki610]

According to the sticker on the back of my dash it's been taken off a Nevada