2012+ NTX Lighting Relay Logic

[canuck1969]

These relays do not fit in my 2011 or later.
This is, what my11 + needs:
http://rb-aa.bosch.com/boaarocs/pag...age=popup&prod_id=131&ccat_id=30&ukey=DA_A_01

Steve

Yup, those are the ones..

Todd, I checked with Dan and he does not carry relays for the Stelvio. Either 4 or 5 pin. We are stuck with the stock or a cross referenced one. Dan did tell me that for the 4 pin relay, the Mitsuba RC-2208, LI L5A (Stock) or Beck Arnley 203-0156 will work. For the 5 pin, the bosch are a good replacement or as Leafman said, the Tyco.

Leafman, I didn't forget that you still owed me one..

I saw that post on the light and a great step forward as a warning to impending doom. I choose to go the plug and play way. Installed a monitoring light for the power in general for the bike. They also make a dash mounted version.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-B...-indicator-warning-alarm-bike-G-/200826330214

Add: Just found the Honda Part number for the 4 pin Relay. It is the Mituba RC-2208. The part number is 38501-GN2-014. Depending on where you get it, looks to be about $25. My MG dealer wants $43

 

[Kaiserkudo]

Just curious if its possible to replace these relays without removing that front fairing panel that covers them?

 

[canuck1969]

On a 2012, not likely. Takes some effort to get them off the connector. Not sure about the pre 2012 model.

 

[Kaiserkudo]

Ah ok. Reason I ask is I got the bike back from the shop and the side panel was really loose and the top allen bolt holding the plastic 'wing' deflector was totally stripped out (rounded hole).it was fine before the bike went in. Ive fixed the loose panel by adding an extra washer to the bolt under the fairing, but the stripped allen bolt Im gonna have to replace. They're saying they didnt touch it and were able to diagnose the relays and replace two without taking any panels off. i dont believe them, but its my word against theirs.

Taking it to a different place as Ive just discovered its got about 4 recalls yet to be done, mainly minor stuff.

 

[AlanNZ]

The top Allen screw on one of my wind deflectors was rounded also. I drilled the head off to remove.
It sounds to me like your dealer is not coming clean on removal. I always remove as much bodywork as I can before I take my bike to the dealer. That way they can get at things quickly and they won't lose bits like stepped washers that go through the plastic and special screws etc.
Alan NZ

 

[canuck1969]

I would love to see that being done. They must have hands of a 2 year old to get in there have them show you again how they did it

Ah ok. Reason I ask is I got the bike back from the shop and the side panel was really loose and the top allen bolt holding the plastic 'wing' deflector was totally stripped out (rounded hole).it was fine before the bike went in. Ive fixed the loose panel by adding an extra washer to the bolt under the fairing, but the stripped allen bolt Im gonna have to replace. They're saying they didnt touch it and were able to diagnose the relays and replace two without taking any panels off. i dont believe them, but its my word against theirs.

Taking it to a different place as Ive just discovered its got about 4 recalls yet to be done, mainly minor stuff.

When you say the allen bolt holding the wing, are you talking about the bolt that attaches the wing to the panel, or the bolt holding the wing to the tank. If it is the one that holds it to the panel, there is a rubber grommet with a threaded insert in the pane for that one. Is the rubber grommet gone.

 

[Kaiserkudo]

Grommet was still there but panel still had about 1cm of back and forth slack/ wiggle at the fastener.
The ruined bolt is holding the wing to the tank/dash. The one that causes major headaches if the nut insert starts to spin.

 

[dufourg]

Good evening guys, After my first run of the year, I have lost both headlights and the generator on my Stelvio NTX 2012. Look like I will have to get this relay from my dealer. The bike has 12440 KM on it.

 

[canuck1969]

Good evening guys, After my first run of the year, I have lost both headlights and the generator on my Stelvio NTX 2012. Look like I will have to get this relay from my dealer. The bike has 12440 KM on it.

May just be the 30 amp fuse. It is located behind the triangular panel on the right side of the bike just below the seat. You most likely have a short in the aux light. Just turn them off for now and check and replace the fuse. If the fuse is not burnt then perhaps start looking at the relay but I would start at the fuse. Make sure you check the one behind the triangular panel, not below the seat.

Here is the cross reference as an option to the stock relay if that is the problem but more likely just the fuse.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/cross-referenced-part-numbers-for-my11-stelvio-ntx.13982/

 

[dufourg]

Yup, those are the ones..

Todd, I checked with Dan and he does not carry relays for the Stelvio. Either 4 or 5 pin. We are stuck with the stock or a cross referenced one. Dan did tell me that for the 4 pin relay, the Mitsuba RC-2208, LI L5A (Stock) or Beck Arnley 203-0156 will work. For the 5 pin, the bosch are a good replacement or as Leafman said, the Tyco.

Leafman, I didn't forget that you still owed me one..

I saw that post on the light and a great step forward as a warning to impending doom. I choose to go the plug and play way. Installed a monitoring light for the power in general for the bike. They also make a dash mounted version.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-B...-indicator-warning-alarm-bike-G-/200826330214

Add: Just found the Honda Part number for the 4 pin Relay. It is the Mituba RC-2208. The part number is 38501-GN2-014. Depending on where you get it, looks to be about $25. My MG dealer wants $43

May just be the 30 amp fuse. It is located behind the triangular panel on the right side of the bike just below the seat. You most likely have a short in the aux light. Just turn them off for now and check and replace the fuse. If the fuse is not burnt then perhaps start looking at the relay but I would start at the fuse. Make sure you check the one behind the triangular panel, not below the seat.

Here is the cross reference as an option to the stock relay if that is the problem but more likely just the fuse.

https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/cross-referenced-part-numbers-for-my11-stelvio-ntx.13982/

First thing that was done was to check all fuses including the ones behind the right hand side panel. They were all good!! Too bad. Were is this relay located? Is it a 4 or a 5 pin relay type?

 

[canuck1969]

First thing that was done was to check all fuses including the ones behind the right hand side panel. They were all good!! Too bad. Were is this relay located? Is it a 4 or a 5 pin relay type?

Behind the front right hand side panel. It is a 5 pin relay. You can swap the High beam and lighting logic relays to see if the problem follows. They are the same relay.

 

[AlanNZ]

I found the suspect relay by tapping with a screw driver. The lights worked when I did this so knew I was on the right track.
Alan NZ

 

[dufourg]

Tapping the relay didn't do anything in this case. Swapping them made everything work perfectly!!! I did it without removing the side cowl. A bit difficult but it can be done. I will order two relays anyway, just in case. When I swapped them, one relay cover (the most backward one) came off, So just in case, both relays will be replaced. I am thinking seriously about installing a battery charging/voltage indicator. Do you have any suggestions?

 

[AlanNZ]

I've got into the habit of riding with the volt meter displayed on the dash now and flicking back to other displays when required.
Alan NZ

 

[canuck1969]

Tapping the relay didn't do anything in this case. Swapping them made everything work perfectly!!! I did it without removing the side cowl. A bit difficult but it can be done. I will order two relays anyway, just in case. When I swapped them, one relay cover (the most backward one) came off, So just in case, both relays will be replaced. I am thinking seriously about installing a battery charging/voltage indicator. Do you have any suggestions?

Glad you found the problem....

I have one of these. Installed it between the front brake master cylinder and handlebars. They also have one that you can install in the dash. Simple and effective. Will also monitor your battery when the bike is off. Has different ranges for the lights when the bike is on or off.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LED-Motorcyc...214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ec22e9c66

This is the seller. Believe they are out of England.

http://www.ebay.ca/usr/gammatronixlimited?_trksid=p2047675.l2559

 

[sanddweller]

What the? Just browsing the forums - I read this post last night - then only less than 24 hours later my 12NTX exhibits relay problems. Turned off HB, and the LB doesn't illuminate! (interesting experience riding w/o lights on an unlit inter-urban street at night @90kmph). Fortunately a few flicks onto HB and off again, and LB lit up again. It's done this a couple of times since, testing tonight. I guess I'm looking for a new relay tomorrow

 

[canuck1969]

We aim to please..........

May want to do a little more digging. If it is the HB relay, you should have LB or HB. No real way to loose both with the HB relay. It is a 5 pin relay. Power is switch from the normally open (LB) or normally closed (HB) pins based on the bar switch. It gets a power feed from the lighting relay. When you flip the switch, the power goes from LB to HB through the HB relay. Unless it is stuck in between (possible I guess).

Does not sound like the lighting relay as the bar switch does not change anything on that relay (ie, does not flip from open to closed). The lighting relay sends constant power to the HB relay where it then switch from LB to HB

You can swap the HB and LB relay to see if the problem goes away. Also, if it happens again, give the relays a quick hit with a screwdriver. If that works it may be the relay.

I am betting on the switch at this point. This has happened before. You can take the switch apart and give it a cleaning. May be corroded up. Worth a look.

 

[motoguzzi]

I have a 2012 8V Stelvio that I bought with 6,800 km on the clock, an 'as new' bike which I think was only ever ridden to Cafes in good weather, the only mark on it was where the cover was rubbing...
Despite pre buy inspections, all missed that Lo beam didn't work (Hi beam did work), so I realised on my 1st ride near sunset a week ago. Be aware that on my Stelvio, it's 2 x Lo beams OR 2 x Hi beams always on, the 2 small park lights are always lit. It is my 2nd 2012 Stelvio 8V, the 1st was crashed and written off.
I figured the 5 pin relay was a possible culprit but had no spare relay nor place to buy one (they are common and cheap from auto stores and Jaycar, about $10). Since Hi worked and Lo did not, I figured that if I could somehow divert the Hi beam 12V output from the relay to the Lo output, I might be lucky. Success, I cut the relay Hi beam output spade terminal about 3 mm short (bent it with toolbox pliers until it broke short) then I bent the shortened spade 90° down so that it contacted tight with the Lo output spade. This 'roadside fix' meant that the relay 12V output for Hi beam was diverted to the Lo beam wire, so when I turn on Hi beam at the handlebar switch I power up Lo beam. My 'missing' Lo beam then worked at the expense of Hi, which wasn't an issue. A day later I replaced the relay because that is a cheap and easy option, yet still no Lo beam.
So in my case the original and replacement relays were OK, so it is the handlebar switch that must be dodgy. The handlebar switch is for passing and for Hi ON or for Lo ON. The Lo position uses the 'NC' or Normally Closed relay output, so when the bike starts and 12V is sent to the relay, Lo beam comes on IF the handlebar switch is in the Lo position. If the handlebar switch is in the Hi position when the engine starts, Hi beam is on and Lo is off. It's one or the other, the relay is a 'changeover' or 'NC/NO' relay. I suppose that the logic design assumes that the handlebar switch is NORMALLY in the Lo position hence the relay coil is NOT NORMALLY energised (Hi beam).
The handlebar switch needs to switch Lo OFF when Hi is selected, and vice versa.
When I use the passing flash, I suppose that Lo stays on while I flash Hi for short duration (but I haven't confirmed that). I got a quote for the switch, I must look into it further but I it seems I must Buy the entire handlebar clamp + all wiring, cost quoted is AUD$233 new. I expect that the tragedy may be that if I buy the new one I will get the same switch that failed with hardly any use...the Lo/Hi on my 25 year old Le Mans Mk V is fine...it could also be that I got a dodgy OEM switch and could refurbi it. If you want more info or image(s), ask.

 

[nose2wind]

I've talked with some of you about my 09 Stelvio and a re-curing ECU-disconnect error. This is the one that cleared with use of the high beam switch and also cleared the ODO to zero. I have made a few test runs after changing the left hand switch assembly. I had the ECU-disconnect re-surface after leaving the bike for lunch. After trailering the bike home it occurred to me the bike had been sitting in the sun. The bike was in the garage so I decided to give it a go and the ECU error cleared and the bike started. I did this several times and decided to push the bike into the sun and left for several hours. Upon returning the ECU-disconnect had returned. I have pushed it back into the shade and will try again. Any comments?

 

[Kevin.NZ]

I have a Breva 1100 2006 and if the dash is exposed to direct sun when you turn on the ign and the dials do a sweep the speedo will stop anywhere on the dial and that then becomes the new zero Km/hr. You can get it back to zero by turning the ign on/off and it drops back 5k each time. Now I just leave my gloves on the dash to shield it or park in the shade .
Kevin