• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

ECU error 44

Yes, I had just come to the same conclusion. But where is the ECU monitoring the voltage to trigger Error 44? Is it looking on pin 1? If so then why would it show the error when the button is pressed, when it should be putting an earth on pin 1 at that time?
The only other place it could be monitoring the voltage to the relay coil is on pin 17, and if for some reason the main injection relay opened when the button was pressed, you would get that error, but I can't see how that could possibly happen.
 
I don't think it could be monitoring pin 17 as this is the main feed for the ECU, and is effectively +12v.

So it has to be at pin 1, through the coil of the starter relay. It has to be +12v before the starter button is pressed, and dropping to 0v when it is. Perhaps there isn't +12v before the button is pressed, and it is reporting "Relay starter C.C. Vcc" error. Why it waits for the button to be pressed, I have no answer.
 
Well ignition on, we have 12.8v either side of the start relay coil, and nothing changes when the start button is pressed, still 12.8v on both pins. So there is no earth being put on the start relay by the ECU.
This would suggest to me a problem with pin 1 on the ECU? Or something else between the start relay and pin 1.
But the error only comes on when the button is pressed. So the ECU must be seeing 12v at pin 1 at the initial check.
Getting very confusing.

Am I right in thinking the start button puts 12v onto pin 27 of the ECU?

Also looking again at the diagram, pin 4 is the permanent 12v feed to the ECU via fuse E. Pin 17 only gets 12v when the ignition is on. However we know that 12.8v remains at the start relay when the button is pressed, so the supply at pin 17 must also be OK.
 
Last edited:
Well more information hot of the press. ECU connector all clean and bright, no problems, and continuity between pin 1 there, and pin 2 on the start relay is also 100%.
 
It is beginning to look like either a wire or ECU issue. If an ECU issue, I'd just add a start button to provide a ground to the starter relay. It may look a little odd, but the bike should start and run OK.
 
Another thing to add. As mentioned, when you push the starter button all it is doing is requesting that the starter motor run. The ECU is in control. On earlier CARC Guzzi's that is the end of the story, but on later versions they supposedly added an additional option. If you hold the starter button down it is supposed to run the starter whether the voltage is there or not. Mine does not have this feature, but I hear newer ones do. I don't know if yours is newer or older.
For testing, what if you disconnect the starter and test just the relays. You could wire up a light in place of the starter if you don't want to go by just the sound of the relay. Also, have you looked at your starter? I seem to recall some having issues with the starter getting sticky inside and requiring too much voltage / amperage to start. The plunger thingy (I forget the name off hand) was the offender I am thinking of.
 
John, I had come to that conclusion too, and have suggested it, thanks. The only drawback would be the ability to start the engine when in gear, so bike could lurch forward. But that used to be normal, so not the end of the world.
Bike is a 2008 model. the voltage is not dropping around the relays, and since the ECU is not providing an earth for the start relay, clearly that relay won't be working.
However, working with a test light between battery negative and putting it on the start relay pin 2 (the one which should be earthed by the ECU) the bike started, clearly that bulb was giving an adequate earth path for the relay.

I am now reasonably sure the fault is in the ECU.
 
That wire has been checked and is good.

The only other thing I thought of. On the Norge you just poke the start button and the ECU keeps the starter running until the engine starts. Not sure what tells it the engine has started, but once started if you press the button nothing happens. I would imagine it must be the signal from the crank position sensor.
 
Last edited:
On my 2007 Breva you just poke the button and the engine cranks for around 10sec max or until it starts, I believe once the engine get to 700 rpm the ECU stops the signal (earth) to the relay.
 
Well, just to show Guzzi have a sense of humour, the bike was left for a couple of days, turned ignition on, pressed button and it whirred into action. It was left running for some time, turned off, and tried again, service light came on the moment the start button was pressed.
 
Brian UK said:
Well, just to show Guzzi have a sense of humour, the bike was left for a couple of days, turned ignition on, pressed button and it whirred into action. It was left running for some time, turned off, and tried again, service light came on the moment the start button was pressed.
Click to expand...

Worst kind of fault, intermittent. Now you don't know if it is the ECU or a wiring/connector issue. Still possible to be a faulty component in the ECU.
 
Brian UK said:
Well, just to show Guzzi have a sense of humour, the bike was left for a couple of days, turned ignition on, pressed button and it whirred into action. It was left running for some time, turned off, and tried again, service light came on the moment the start button was pressed.
Click to expand...

Worst kind of fault, intermittent. Now you can't be sure it it is ECU or wiring/connector issue. Still possible to be the ECU, but at this point I think it is less likely.
 
Well if it was mine, at this point I would be rewiring the start button to just put an earth on the start relay.

I don't think any software would tell you what this fault was exactly if it was in the ECU.

I assume the ECU is looking for volts on pin 17, can't think where else it could be looking. Possible there is a dry joint between pin 17 and the ECU PCB, that would fit all that has happened so far.
 
Pin 17 is the main feed for the ECU, if there was a dry joint for this path, the ECU would be effectively dead.

What flavor of CARC bike is it Brian, and 2 or 8 valve?
 
Pin 17 is the switched feed to the ECU from fuse D (and the coils and injectors). Pin 4 is the permanent feed via fuse E.
It's a 2008 Norge. So 2 valve.
New battery fitted recently too.

We know 12.8 volts is getting to pin 1.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top