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Forked by Norge: Can't Remove Stanchions

Bill Hagan

Bill Hagan

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
1,708
Location
Above Pott's Camp along Braddock's route, Virginia
In the course of trying to remove the forks on my Norge, I find myself stymied by an unexpected obstacle.

When it came time for the stanchions to "fall out" ... well, they didn't.


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Tried gently prying the triple-tree "splits apart. Tried (again gently) tapping assembly with rubber hammer.

Nada.

Hmmmmmm. :wondering:

Then looked up top.

Mine are 1200 Sport forks, and are different than stock Norge ones.


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Anyone know if the answer is to remove that small PH screw at side, then back off that large (26mm?) top piece?

If so, will have to get the right-sized, thin-walled socket. I have nothing like that, as my sets are too small or too large. Need a Goldilocks sized one. ;)

Grazie.

Bill
 
Bill, don't touch the caps. It sound like you might just need some lubrication. ;)
I nearly always remember pulling the bolt-on bars to do the job, as one of the three (one hidden) bolts may be an additional/secondary pinch bolt.
If that doesn't do it, hose down both upper and lower fork tubes/triples with something better then WD40, and tap down gently from the top. Might be best to remove the clip on bars to get some spray onto the top triple, and a very large socket around the nut or perimeter to tap on.
p.s. Is the bed in the photo the "dog house?" Not too shabby if so.
 
Did you get it yet? 2 top handlebar bolts, 1 underneath the triple plate, then loosen pinch bolts.

I loosen all three handle bar bolts,
 
I had a similar problem years ago on my Cali. I wrapped a towel around each side of the tree and soqkd them in boiling water, lefy a few minutes and forks could be bumped out with some gentle taps
 
As I know everyone's been on tenterhooks over my shocking situation, I wanted to bring you up to date.

The BLUF is I am celebrating victory :cheers: ... while, as is the usual case in battles, mourning my missing and dead. :(

Thanks to all here -- and some off-line emails -- I broke the code on pulling the bars and risers off where I had started on the left side.

There was - à la the hidden 4 bolts under the Tonti sumps -- a secret fastener below.

Once all fasteners were removed, it became clear to me (at last) that the top of the shock was indeed filling that opening and I could tap it through ... after a liberal dousing of lubricant and some appropriate and imaginative cursing.


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It was then clear sailing down and out.


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Unfortunately, in my enthusiasm to repeat that success, I rounded out the large hex head on the right side. More and even more colorful cursing ensued. :swear:

Certain that I was boinked, I nonetheless tried -- after all other fasteners were out and lubricant on and in -- to remove the right-hand stanchion.


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Another victory!

Uhm.

Not so fast.

Study the next two pix.

Not enough clearance to get the shock by the wheel lock. :banghead:

What to do?


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So, I called Kathi to help me hold the Norge steady while I would beat it into submission a few inches over at the front.

Kathi looks at me and asks -- innocently, I hope -- why I did not simply raise the scissors jack under the sump?

Hmmmmmm.

My mind raced to find a way not to let her know she was smarter than I had been.

In, however, a rare burst of candor (I will no doubt later regret), I admitted that she was right, indeed brilliant. :inlove:


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I then posed for a triumphant photo with my favorite tools ...


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And, in answer to Oz1200Guzzi's question about "why" and "what next," topped off the day by adjusting the valves.


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While it's nekkid and on the lift, I'll also fiddle with that crank-position sensor, R&R plugs (which look pretty nasty after 5K), R&R oil & filter, tidy up some wiring, "weld" weak points on the cladding, and do some general cleaning, etc. I will also R&R the front rotors, and, if time at my tortoise-like pace, the rear.

When I go to Atlanta on Monday to help out with Mom, I'll take those forks to Kent Soignier at http://gmdatl.com to see what should/needs to be done.

So, there, I knew you'd want to know. ;)

Ciao from Cross Junction,

Bill
 
I did fork seals on a Breva 1100 yesterday. I like to take each stanchion out individually, i.e. remove one and replace it before removing the other.

Helps keep the triple tree alignment undisturbed, IMHO. However, I may be completely wrong.
 
Bill, I thought after getting the fork tubes out you would have quoted that great Roman General Veni vidi vici
 
Hammers - there is an unique hammer for each application - I only have 5 so I need to buy more.
 
Just an update of sorts. Appreciate the feedback.

I found myself in Fairmount, Georgia, yesterday.

Fairmount is a nice place, tho urbanites likely see it as BFE: east of Redbud, south of Ranger, and west of Talking Rock. But, best of all, for those (of us) who love the rural south of America, it’s an hour north (and away from) the Atlanta metroblob.


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Fairmount is also home to a world-class mistletoe hosting tree!


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After successfully (albeit with more drama than desirable) removing the forks, I drove to Atlanta for our monthly eldercare duty and dropped the stanchions off at G.M.D. COMPUTRACK Atlanta, http://gmdatl.com, a place recommended to me by a Norgester friend.

As that latter fellow is a bachelor Delta pilot, I have to be careful lest — as does he — I view money as a mere administrative inconvenience!

So, there I wuz:


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Yes. That’s a Stelvio out front. And, I just missed Porter, another Guzzista who'd been there earlier that same morning.

What a great shop. Not fancy, but just the right sort of place.

Kent and co-owner-wife Tracey welcomed me and Kent gave me a super tour of their operation, all while patiently explaining the nuances of suspensions. Seeing my eyes glaze over several times, he patiently repeated himself until some spark of understanding (faked at least once I am embarrassed to add) showed on my face.


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That gizmo is made in Australia. May not look especially impressive, but Kent was very pleased and proud to have it in his shop. Said it was a stupendous tool to find near-invisible but critical alignment errors.


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Anyway, he took my forks and my “measurements,” etc., and said he’d see what needed to be done.

I’ll pick them up when next in Atlanta in February. Can't wait to see how they work. Uhm ... assuming, that is, I can reinstall 'em.

Bill
 
Bill, just reverse what ya dun already - all will be golden, I promise you!
 
Hey Bill, sorry I missed you, had I known your ETA I would have loafered around the area until your arrival.

I was also impressed with Kent's willingness to explain all the details to a luddite like myself.

If you are doing the spring and emulator upgrade you will be really pleased. I did the same to my Triumph Scrambler and the results were remarkable.
 
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