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Front Wheel Bearing Query for 1100 Breva

T

Tinkerfreak

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
49
Location
Caledon, Ontario
I have my front end disassembled for suspension work and decided to take a look at the wheel bearings and found one to be slightly graunchy so I was going to pop them out and have a look to see if replacement is required but I have come across what appears to be some form of external seal retainer/housing and was wondering if the seal and bearing can be removed through this unit or do I have to remove it in order to remove the bearing and if so will the brake discs have to be removed in order to expedite the retainer removal. Any assistance with this will be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 
I haven't done one yet, but if a circlip is there, it must be removed. I believe it is used to retain the seal on that side. Removing the rotors is a good idea as it minimizes the risk of damage. Once you remove the bearing, it is junk. Good thing is the parts manual (available in the download section) gives you the sizes of the bearings and seals. Once you get a seal and bearing out it should become evident how to replace the second. My guess is they come out from each side, but again I haven't done one yet. If one wheel bearing is bad, replace both.
 
Hi Tinkerfreak, how did you get on with the bearings? I have a small amount of play in mine, it was recently picked up as an advisory on the MOT so I thought it's time to get them changed.

The parts manual shows the circlip you mention, with that removed is it easy enough to whack em out or do you need to do one particular side first? Any tips from your experience would be helpful.

Cheers,
Iain
 
Iain

Sorry for the delayed response but I have been some what absent lately from the forum, got the beast back together and was busy riding.

The bearing change was a piece of piss. I did not drift them out as I could not seem to get a real good edge with the drifts that I had, even my two good quality Snap-On units failed to bite. I have a bearing removal kit that worked the charm. The Bearings are 6005-2RS qty 2. You should also replace the Seals which are 30X47X7 qty 2. Both the Bearings and Seals should be readily available from a local Bearing specialist.

When you do get the Bearings make sure you take them and clean out all of the grease that is provided as you do not know what type it is or what its intended purpose is, then repack with a good quality Wheel Bearing specific grease. If you have never done it before there are a couple of good videos on youtube.

Don't be afraid to take a run at it as it is a fairly simple task, a little trick I was taught as an apprentice was that after you have the Bearings repacked and the Bearings re-assembled place them in a zip lock bag and stick them in the freezer for a couple of hours which minimizes the amount of pounding you will have to do in order to reinstall the Bearings in the Wheel. The one video I watched on youtube went through the entire process except for the freezer thing, give it a watch and then have a go at it.

Make sure you have everything in place prior to starting, that means tools and parts required along with the Wheel Bearing grease.

If you have any concerns throw them up on the forum and I am sure the mechanically inclined types will chime in and by the way ignore my first post in this thread, I was tired after a long night and a little delusional.

Cheers
 
Tinkerfreak,

Good advice, but I thought those were sealed bearings. Anyway, when replacing bearings I also use the freezer technique, but I also use an electric heat gun to warm up where they will go. It makes installation even easier.
 
Yes John, they are sealed but with patience and a little gentle persuasion they can easily be removed without damage and be cleaned. The last batch I bought were not to bad for grease quantity but as I am never sure which kind of grease has been loaded I never take the chance. I once bought a set of Bearings for my 2001 Suzuki DRZ400 and was going to just pop them in without repacking but could just not convince myself it was a good idea so when I got the Bearing Seals off I was flabergasted to find almost zero grease and these were SKF Bearings so I was a little put off by there product. I have never had an issue with the Seals popping off after re-installation but I know of a chap that repacked the Bearing so it was completely full almost to the point where it was difficult to get the Seals to reseat and shortly there after he kacked a Bearing because all of the grease had been expelled and the subsequent water crossings didn't help, so I always open them up, repack and reseal. It takes me maybe an hour(provided I do not walk past the beer fridge) but I feel it's well worth the effort for the peace of mind.

I also use a heat gun but I find if it is a real sunny warm/hot day outside I just leave the wheel in the sun and let mother nature do the job. If I am doing it during a winter maintenance session I will use the heat gun for sure but be careful and do not concentrate the heat in one spot or you could potentially discolour the paint. The Bearing housing does not need to be glowing red(slight exageration) just warm to the touch.

Cheers
 
Thanks for the replies and advice. I've ordered the bearings and seals from heere, quality products at good prices!
http://bearingsbikepartsseals.co.uk

I had planned to use the freezer on the bearings and heat on the wheel, as you say, it helps them ease in, but what I need is a tip for the removal of the old ones. I don't have a removal tool.

Thanks
 
I've been checking out the youtube videos, lets hope the spacer will move enough so I don't need to buy the tool.

BTW, I checked out the price of parts on here and they're astronomical! :eek:
http://www.apriliagenuineparts.co.uk/

£44.43 for a pair of bearings and £18.73 for the seals.

Thanks for the help, they should be here in the next day or two.
 
I had a spare hour this afternoon so I had a go at getting the bearings out. The seals popped out easy enough and the circlip also.

The internal diameter of the spacer was almost the same as the bearing and wouldn’t tap to the side, so there was no room to get a purchase and knock it out. What there was at one end of the spacer was two small cut aways, I guessed there’d be a special Guzzi tool for this so I’d need to improvise.

I cut a nail and used two small lengths to insert into the holes as pins and secured them with a bit of bluetac whilst I turned the wheel over. An 18mm socket on a long extension was a nice fit down the middle and a few firm clouts dropped the bearing and spacer.

The new parts should be with me tomorrow.

I’ve put the pins on the spacer to show what I mean.
 

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