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Grabby Clutch on 1000SP

I'm sure you're right about inspecting the innerts of the gearbox. I'm not sure if those bearings were replaced during the rebuild because I don't trust the invoice to be 100% accurate. I've never opened one before. I couldn't find Pete's gearbox write up on Greg's site. Can you post a direct link? -thanks
 
Thanks John, I'll probably regret it, but I'll leave the gear box alone this time round except input seal/o-rings and hub of course. I'm not ready to develop the 2nd half of my brain (more than 1/2 brain(?)required for job per Roper) by cracking open the gear box. Don't have all the trans shop tools, plus I can only take redoing work I paid big bucks for in metered doses.

I was visiting a friend at his work, helicopter hanger/shop, COOL. He showed me some of his MG projects and low and behold, he showed me a used Sureflex friction plate, You guessed it - splines nearly worn away and friction material looks a week old.

How is it that Sureflex is still in business? How it it that retailers still stock them? I just learned about how crappy they are on this thread.

Back when I bought my Eldo in '81 I had to do a clutch job soon after getting it. I can't remember the brand of friction plates I used but I did get them at a dealer. A couple of years later, as I started the bike and let the clutch lever out. I heard a horrendous grinding noise and got little forward motion. Oh shit! But before I got a chance to fix it, a Ferrari mechanic friend offered me his T-3 for next to nothing. I took it and left the Eldo in storage since. I know, I know. I bet if I open her up I'll find Surflex plates! Friction plate spline are the weak link in the whole drive line. Has to be it. SUREFLEX :angry:
 
Moving at a snails pace here. I had the pressure plate and ring gear resurface took off about 7 thou total. Does any body think I need to shim up the clutch springs? Apparently some .5mm 6 speed (V11 version) gearbox shims fit. I'm using new springs.

thanks!
 
thanks Peter & John, clutch is in and ready to go. But when I proceeded to replace the pair conical clutch push rod seals I realized I didn't know how to get them out! So, my question is: Do I have to take the rear gearbox cover to replace them? At this point have removed the throw-out bearing but am hesitant to pull the rod out and use a hook to pull the seals out.

Another question: When I removed the old clutch hub I found that the o-ring that sits in the inner groove the of hub was missing. Fortunately it didn't leak. I installed the new o-ring but now find that the splines can't be lined up to slide on the hub. Any suggestions on a technique before I go a screw it up?

Hammer for brains, :( :lol: :lol:
 
Pull the push rod out from the back. It should bring the cone shaped seals with it. For the two o-rings on the input shaft. Place the thicker one down against the input bearing first, Then place the thinner one on top of it. It will sit slightly above and closer to the shaft. Then install the hub gear. The two o-rings act together to seal the hub gear.
 
Agreed, the cone seals will come out with the rod, remember their alignment so the new ones go on the correct way. As John says you should have two o-rings so have another look to see if the original, skinny one is squashed up against the bearing. The hub splines are a very close fit and the it needs to be aligned spot on. Unless you've forgotten to say your prayers and be good to the elderly it will slide on without the need for force (or tapping it with your brain)
 
Boy! nothing is normal with this bike, but this time it's not bad news. I pushed the push rod thru to the rear - no seals came out, so I peeked in with a flashlight and could see the seal. So I tried to reinstall the push rod from the front and twisted one of the seals - didn't force it but used a small hook to pull out the seal. Turns out there are 6 o-rings on the rod! I looked it up in Guzziology and found that that is MI's recommended seal. I thinks I'll reinstall these o-rings since they are in good shape and no leaks had occurred. Supposedly it's a rare size, size was not provided in Guzziology, making it nearly impossible to find. Compared it to o-rings on the self and it appears that the removed o-rings are 5.5 ID, 9.5mm OD, 1.5mm W, but can'be sure.

As for the hub seal, thanks, makes sense, I'll get it in soon.
 
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