Jlyon99
Tuned and Synch'ed
draidt said:
Thanks. Such a small thing, with such an expensive (if not under warranty) result. Perhaps checking those connections and adding some protective oil/grease during dealer setup would be a good idea.
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Griso - Blowing main 30amp Fuse
- Thread starter steve6
- Start date
Thanks. Such a small thing, with such an expensive (if not under warranty) result. Perhaps checking those connections and adding some protective oil/grease during dealer setup would be a good idea.
Chicago Mark
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Where is the ECU on the Griso?
Mark
Mark
Jlyon99
Tuned and Synch'ed
Chicago Mark said:
Not buried under the tank or seat like you'd expect, but in front of the tank behind a little piece of plastic :huh:
Chicago Mark
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Thank you !
I'll check my ECU connections out tomorrow to ensure they're still good after likely getting wet recently.Maybe add some vaseline or dielectric grease if needed.
Thanks Again,
Mark
I'll check my ECU connections out tomorrow to ensure they're still good after likely getting wet recently.Maybe add some vaseline or dielectric grease if needed.
Thanks Again,
Mark
mattm said:
I can't see how a partially charged battery could cause this problem, the alternator would be more than capable of charging it on a reasonable run without blowing the fuse, I think sometimes they will tell you anything when they can't diagnose an intermitent problem, I was convined mine was an alternator probem, but this is reasonable easy to check that it is operating with the correct output with the bike running. You should be able to get the alternator checked without going to the cost of repalcing it just to try. Once you know that the alternator is ok it really only leaves a short in the loom / dash or a problem with the ecu as it was in my case. Hope you find the problem soon
mattm
Just got it firing!
Honestly, I cannot connect the dots of a low battery causing my blown fuses either, but I defer to the experience of vet riders on this one. And, from my 22+ years of work experience, electricity and electronics can behave in very illogical ways. I rode her back from the MG tech (1 hr and 15 min) in 84ºF sunny weather with my eye on the voltage meter and all looked good. I bought a battery tender for when she's dormant, dielectric grease to treat all those important potentially water exposed connector bits, and will hand her over to my MG mechanic for a good once-over when I'm back in RI.
So for now, I'm going to ride as much as possible before May 25, then make the 600 mi trip to Maine for a weekend of camping with friends, then 250 mi back down to Rhode Island. When it's all over, I'll write about how things went.
So for now, I'm going to ride as much as possible before May 25, then make the 600 mi trip to Maine for a weekend of camping with friends, then 250 mi back down to Rhode Island. When it's all over, I'll write about how things went.
mattm
Just got it firing!
I blew another 30 amp fuse this morning on my way to work. Luckily, having the dash set to volts meter, I noticed the sudden drop and was able to get back to where I was staying.
At this point, based on so many post responses and my mechanic in RI, I'm leaning towards it being a connection problem. Specifically, I think a hard turn to the right is when it happens. I told the service manager to pass on to the tech to check all the connections, but I cannot confirm that they did - the tech was not there when I picked it up...
I'll post an update after a thorough going over...
At this point, based on so many post responses and my mechanic in RI, I'm leaning towards it being a connection problem. Specifically, I think a hard turn to the right is when it happens. I told the service manager to pass on to the tech to check all the connections, but I cannot confirm that they did - the tech was not there when I picked it up...
I'll post an update after a thorough going over...
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
The 30A fuse on the right hand side blew last night on my 8V SE. Assume that is the one from the battery to the voltage regulator.
The only thing out of the ordinary is that I had put it on a Ctek battery tender the night before for the first time. Was fine on the trip into work but would not turn over when I went out to go home.
The question I have is whether this is can be a one off or is it time to take it to a dealer?
The only thing out of the ordinary is that I had put it on a Ctek battery tender the night before for the first time. Was fine on the trip into work but would not turn over when I went out to go home.
The question I have is whether this is can be a one off or is it time to take it to a dealer?
I have a CTEK charger too (XS800). I use it to charge all my bikes with battery in situ EXCEPT the G8VSE.
I am skeptical towards Italian electronics and went through the trouble to remove the battery from the Griso for charging. Lately, I got tired of doing that and very tempted to install a pigtail to the battery terminals so that I can charge it in situ.
gvw, please share with us if you found any relation between the blown fuse and the battery tender. Thanks
I am skeptical towards Italian electronics and went through the trouble to remove the battery from the Griso for charging. Lately, I got tired of doing that and very tempted to install a pigtail to the battery terminals so that I can charge it in situ.
gvw, please share with us if you found any relation between the blown fuse and the battery tender. Thanks
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Had the same fuse blow twice today. Once this morning when the bike would not start and the second time while riding on the way home - noticed because the headlight went out.
Would not have noticed if it was not dark as the speedo and dash stayed on. Replaced the 30A fuse and that fixed it. The fuse is the right hand side one looking to the front of the bike.
The 15A fuse A runs the lights and that was fine?? Any reason why the 30A fuse to the battery and voltage regulator would affect the headlight?
Would not have noticed if it was not dark as the speedo and dash stayed on. Replaced the 30A fuse and that fixed it. The fuse is the right hand side one looking to the front of the bike.
The 15A fuse A runs the lights and that was fine?? Any reason why the 30A fuse to the battery and voltage regulator would affect the headlight?
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Blew another fuse this morning, third one in two days - fourth in a week or so.
Takes out the tail light/brake light and headlight and the regulator. Voltage drops to 12.2v but the engine stays on. Turn signals work.
Found this wiring diagram which is a lot clearer than the service manual.
Would appreciate any ideas.
Takes out the tail light/brake light and headlight and the regulator. Voltage drops to 12.2v but the engine stays on. Turn signals work.
Found this wiring diagram which is a lot clearer than the service manual.
Would appreciate any ideas.
Attachments
contractor20
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Bad Earth Bad Earth Bad Earth Bad Earth Bad
OR
Short Short Short Short
OR
Bad Connection Bad Connection Bad Connection
:whistle: :whistle:
OR
Short Short Short Short
OR
Bad Connection Bad Connection Bad Connection
:whistle: :whistle:
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Is terminal now, cannot replace a fuse without it blowing so spending some $$ on a bike chauffeur home to the workshop. All the Honda riders at my work are having a field day with me at the moment...
Hi gvw,
Disconnect all plugs and sockets to isolate different parts of the circuit, replace the fuse , hopefully it wont blow. If it does it could be the alternator or starter/solenoid as they are hard wired, then connect each plug one at a time in a logical fashion untill the fuse blows, then investigate that part of the circuit. Another way to test without blowing fuses is to use a multimeter. Set it to the resistance range and check each wire to earth looking for a very low resistance, you can do that with the battery disconnected. Blow up and print off the wiring diagram you have and and check of each circuit as you test it. Good luck. A constantly blowing fuse is easier to find than an intermittent fault.
cheers Kevin
Disconnect all plugs and sockets to isolate different parts of the circuit, replace the fuse , hopefully it wont blow. If it does it could be the alternator or starter/solenoid as they are hard wired, then connect each plug one at a time in a logical fashion untill the fuse blows, then investigate that part of the circuit. Another way to test without blowing fuses is to use a multimeter. Set it to the resistance range and check each wire to earth looking for a very low resistance, you can do that with the battery disconnected. Blow up and print off the wiring diagram you have and and check of each circuit as you test it. Good luck. A constantly blowing fuse is easier to find than an intermittent fault.
cheers Kevin
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Thanks Kevin,
Appreciate the pointers, I have a big electrical learning curve ahead of me this weekend.
Starting with replacing the relays and the headlight bulb (??) as some guzzi mechanics from Victoria advised that they have been the source of problems in the past. Might get lucky.
Will be getting help with anything past that until I can troubleshoot myself.
gvw
Appreciate the pointers, I have a big electrical learning curve ahead of me this weekend.
Starting with replacing the relays and the headlight bulb (??) as some guzzi mechanics from Victoria advised that they have been the source of problems in the past. Might get lucky.
Will be getting help with anything past that until I can troubleshoot myself.
gvw
Brian UK
GT Reference
The starter solenoid is not hard wired, it is fed via the start relay.
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Update.
Switched the relays around and replaced the headlight bulb and was still dead shorting.
Disconnected everything and put fuse back in. Reconnected one by one, fuse did not blow once and starts fine. Back to an intermittent fault.
Am loathe to ride it to work because when the fuse does go, I lose headlight and brakelights but the engine still runs and that is no good anytime but especially when commuting before sunup and after sundown. Could stop and put a fuse in but another dead short means a long wait and another night time tow ($$$).
Ordered a new relay (light logic relay is a guess as to why the lights go out) and will put in a new licence plate bulb (read that was the problem for someone somewhere).
Other than that, my option is to ride it on a Saturday morning to the dealer (did not buy from them) and hope it blows again on the way so they have something to sort out.
Will persevere - but will also join the RACQ so I can get cheaper tows.
Switched the relays around and replaced the headlight bulb and was still dead shorting.
Disconnected everything and put fuse back in. Reconnected one by one, fuse did not blow once and starts fine. Back to an intermittent fault.
Am loathe to ride it to work because when the fuse does go, I lose headlight and brakelights but the engine still runs and that is no good anytime but especially when commuting before sunup and after sundown. Could stop and put a fuse in but another dead short means a long wait and another night time tow ($$$).
Ordered a new relay (light logic relay is a guess as to why the lights go out) and will put in a new licence plate bulb (read that was the problem for someone somewhere).
Other than that, my option is to ride it on a Saturday morning to the dealer (did not buy from them) and hope it blows again on the way so they have something to sort out.
Will persevere - but will also join the RACQ so I can get cheaper tows.
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Finally getting somewhere.
Bike is back together and no longer blowing fuses but the voltage when it is running is only 12.8v to 13.1v and going higher occasionally. Before the dead short, it would show between 13.8 and 14.1v when running.
Having the alternator removed and tested next week and will see what they report.
Bike is back together and no longer blowing fuses but the voltage when it is running is only 12.8v to 13.1v and going higher occasionally. Before the dead short, it would show between 13.8 and 14.1v when running.
Having the alternator removed and tested next week and will see what they report.
gvw
Tuned and Synch'ed
Back on the road again. Alternator and battery tested fine?? There was nothing that jumped out as causing the issue.
Every connection was taken apart and cleaned so unless it happens again, maybe it was a bad earth as per Pete's post 2 on this thread.
When running, the dash voltage is now in the high 12V and low 13V range. I am sure it used to high 13V and low 14V. Is that normal or is there still something amiss?
Every connection was taken apart and cleaned so unless it happens again, maybe it was a bad earth as per Pete's post 2 on this thread.
When running, the dash voltage is now in the high 12V and low 13V range. I am sure it used to high 13V and low 14V. Is that normal or is there still something amiss?
kiwi dave
GT Reference
gvw said:
The voltage you are reading now is more normal compared to what you were getting. I would be skeptical of your battery (or the battery connections), despite it getting checked out OK.
To help the diagnostics further, exactly which 30A is continuously blowing? Perhaps the one on the RHS as you describe is not the same RHS as the one in the circuit diagram. Can you identify it by the color code of the wires, i.e. the Red/Wht one or the Grn/Red one?