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Griso problems... is it the starter motor?

There's a low-voltage cut-off on the Norge, I guess on the Griso too, but if that gets tripped, the dash dies after the click, for a couple of secs, as Pete asked. And the cut-off is lower than the voltage you give when cranking .... unless the cut-off is specified in terms of the voltage shown on the dash! On mine, the dash shows about 0.5V less than what I measure across the terminals, so you still *might* simple need to try a new battery.

Forgive my innocence, but just hooking up a 12V car battery and starting, can that cause damage?
 
RJVB wrote:
Forgive my innocence, but just hooking up a 12V car battery and starting, can that cause damage?
Click to expand...

Yes it can. You can draw more amperage than the wiring can take. The main cables on a bike aren't heavy enough to carry the current from a large battery. Therefore if you are going to jump from a car or car battery, attach the positive cable directly to the starter (where the battery cable connects) and the ground to the engine or chassis. That will minimize the risk of frying cables.
 
Hmm, so you'd fry the wires, not (necessarily) the ECU, as I've heard said.

So a regulated booster (or power supply) with the appropriate amperage limit ought to be OK.

The original battery is rated 18Ah — but that only means it can deliver 18A in (for) an hour ... what's it peak?
 
The 18AH AGM batteries usually supply about 250Amps max, but that should be more than enough for the starter.

The starter motor, assuming the windings are not shorted, will only draw what it needs, regardless of the size of the 12 volt battery. Ohms law will always apply.
In thse circumstances I would certainly try a small car battery as an alternative. Just be careful not to short anything out when connecting it. I would actually use a set of jump leads, to connect it across the bike battery. If the starter still won't run, then it must be the starter or a fault in the wiring.
 
The 18AH AGM batteries usually supply about 250Amps max, but that should be more than enough for the starter.
Click to expand...

Ive only got a 14AH AGM battery... whats the max Amps of this battery... and any ideas what amps or watts the starter needs?

Im still waiting for the dealer to pick the Griso up....
 
Hi,cant you get dealer or other guzzi rider to lend you their battery so you can check it out? im lucky my guzzi dealer just up the rd from me and lots of guzzi riders near by.
 
Afraid im in the opposite situation.. havent even seen one other Guzzi on the road, let alone know anyone with one! Plus my dealer is about an hour and a half ride away...
 
More important that the cahrging is allowing the electrolyte to soak into the mats in the cells. DO NOT simply add acid and then install the battery in the bike and ride. It has to be left for several hours, overnight is prefferable.

Pete
 
I think it should fit... it is only slightly larger (1mm or so) and though the original Yuasa fits pretty snug there is a tiny bit of wiggle room with the rubber boot it sits in.
 
I had the same exact problem. The battery was fully charged, but the bike behaved as if it was not.

I had the dealer pick it up for warranty repair, and when it got to the dealer it started right up. Go figure.
 
pete roper wrote:
When it goes click and dies does the dashboard switch off as well and then re-energise after about 4 seconds?

Pete
Click to expand...

- last few months I have to keep my hand on the throttle for the first couple of minutes when starting the bike.

- last week Saturday it did'nt start up at all one the way back home after a short trip.:angry: :angry: :angry:

- this week I checked all connections and cleaned terminals ,charged the battery ect.......

For a few days it seemed to be OK but to day at the start dashboard switched off for a few second every time I try to start the engine. Just like Pete discribed.
Does this probably mean a bad battery then???:huh:
 
Having to keep your hand on the throttle has nothing to do with the battery. My Norge also often requires that when the engine is cold and temps under about 5ºC - it's to prevent stalling because the idling revs fall under about 800tpm.

The other things indeed indicate a bad battery, or a dying one.
 
Not sure it's its main role, but if so, it *should*, indeed. As it ought to on any of the modern Guzzis.
But any engine will stall if it falls under a certain amount of revs...
 
RJVB wrote:
Having to keep your hand on the throttle has nothing to do with the battery. My Norge also often requires that when the engine is cold and temps under about 5ºC - it's to prevent stalling because the idling revs fall under about 800tpm.

The other things indeed indicate a bad battery, or a dying one.
Click to expand...

Thank you........ I think you're right conserning the battery.

But what is excalty the reason that the dashboard goes black for a few seconds?
 
RJVB wrote:
Not sure it's its main role, but if so, it *should*, indeed. As it ought to on any of the modern Guzzis.
But any engine will stall if it falls under a certain amount of revs...
Click to expand...

Is it possible to rejust the where engine will stall (< 800tpm) . I mean this will happen every wintertime so what is the use of the steppermotor then ..its takes a lot of energy of the battery by faulty starts.
 
The stepper motor is indeed there to adjust the air/fuel mixture at idle (and very low?) revs. Some have taken it out of the circuit, in order to be able to adjust idle speed like that was done in the past. It'll probably void your warranty, though.

Just take the habit of holding the throttle (and the clutch!) until you see/hear the idling revs go up and become more regular. I've asked many times how to correct this issue here, but never got a reply, so I presume it's just one of those things that constitute the bike's character ;)
(Btw, if you just ride away immediately, you'll probably never notice the issue!)
 
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