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Norge & broken oil-pump

No matter what kind of vehicle you're riding or driving all an oil pressure light tells you is that you have just trashed your engine. Gauges provide very useful information and one can watch trends. I would like to install both oil temp and pressure gauges as my warranty is out in 2 months. Any info on pick-up points would be helpful. I would install either an electric or direct pressure gauge.
 
phordman.........GF @ MI says the only realistic oil spigots are the existing OEM switch location and a banjo connector
near the alternator. I'm going to research some sending units and see if space between the tank & OEM spigot is
sufficient to use a splitter for the aftermarket sensor. As far as temp goes, perhaps one of those temp dipsticks would work.

BB
 
You want oil temperature or cylinder/head temperature? I know someone who fitted sensors on the latter, to try get a finger behind his (big) pinging problem, and I suppose I could get details from him how he fitted the sensors.
 
Below's the 1st spread from the french version of the article. The french version talks about slightly less than 45k km, not 50k. The pump that broke was of the trochoidal type, so if I understand Pete's remark above correctly, this potentially affects all newer 1200cc 2V blocks, not the pre-2007 ones (?).

Apart from the oil pump, some harsh words about the bolt holding the gearbox's sump, which apparently was rusted in the block. Oil consumption (just a bit too much to span revision intervals without topping up) due to insufficient sealing of the cylinder heads, so they suggest getting the engine nicely warm before being to heavy on the throttle.
And a bent centre stand at 17k km, exchanged under warranty ... wonder if I could try to get mine changed for free after all (I'm amazed it's only about 82€, though, was expecting much more!)
 
RJVB wrote:
Below's the 1st spread from the french version of the article. The french version talks about slightly less than 45k km, not 50k. The pump that broke was of the trochoidal type, so if I understand Pete's remark above correctly, this potentially affects all newer 1200cc 2V blocks, not the pre-2007 ones (?).

Apart from the oil pump, some harsh words about the bolt holding the gearbox's sump, which apparently was rusted in the block. Oil consumption (just a bit too much to span revision intervals without topping up) due to insufficient sealing of the cylinder heads, so they suggest getting the engine nicely warm before being to heavy on the throttle.
And a bent centre stand at 17k km, exchanged under warranty ... wonder if I could try to get mine changed for free after all (I'm amazed it's only about 82€, though, was expecting much more!)
Click to expand...

I got to wonder what kind of treatment this bike got ???
I have used not one drop of oil, nada, zip,nil. Rusted gearbox drain bolt ??? WTF they take a salt water bath with it ?????
 
It wasn't the drain bolt. It's the bolt and fixes the lower part of the engine to the frame, and that goes through special (quote) 'orifices' in the gearbox sump. According to the authors, Guzzi has some nice warnings on a decal next to the bolt, but doesn't heed them themselves.

As to the bike's treatment: long-haul trips, including one from Brussels to Sardegna under a continuous downpour. There's pic on another page that shows her under a nice layer of snow. I have no idea how exposed the area in question is, maybe road salt got in there?
 
Brutto Bestia wrote:
phordman.........GF @ MI says the only realistic oil spigots are the existing OEM switch location and a banjo connector
near the alternator. I'm going to research some sending units and see if space between the tank & OEM spigot is
sufficient to use a splitter for the aftermarket sensor. As far as temp goes, perhaps one of those temp dipsticks would work.

BB
Click to expand...

Brutto: If you find the info on the splitter I would sure like to know about it. Given the occasional problems with oil pumps that is my priority. Oil temperature on air cooled aircraft engines is typically picked up at the inlet to the cooler and I think that could be done with some creative plumbing on the cooler inlet hose. Stevens Woodburn, of WV, has installed head temp gauges on his Norge and if I decide to go that route he has the info. He had pinging problems so installed the head temps to get a handle on the problem. To my knowledge I've never had any pinging problems. Course I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear out of the other. That coupled with an open exhaust I doubt I'd ever know if it was spark knocking. The good news is that if I should have a pump failure I'm sure Bill Hagan would lend me a bike from his vast stable until mine is repaired. Thanks in advance Bill.
 
phordman wrote:
Brutto Bestia wrote:
phordman.........GF @ MI says the only realistic oil spigots are the existing OEM switch location and a banjo connector
near the alternator. I'm going to research some sending units and see if space between the tank & OEM spigot is
sufficient to use a splitter for the aftermarket sensor. As far as temp goes, perhaps one of those temp dipsticks would work.

BB
Click to expand...

Brutto: If you find the info on the splitter I would sure like to know about it. Given the occasional problems with oil pumps that is my priority. Oil temperature on air cooled aircraft engines is typically picked up at the inlet to the cooler and I think that could be done with some creative plumbing on the cooler inlet hose. Stevens Woodburn, of WV, has installed head temp gauges on his Norge and if I decide to go that route he has the info. He had pinging problems so installed the head temps to get a handle on the problem. To my knowledge I've never had any pinging problems. Course I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear out of the other. That coupled with an open exhaust I doubt I'd ever know if it was spark knocking. The good news is that if I should have a pump failure I'm sure Bill Hagan would lend me a bike from his vast stable until mine is repaired. Thanks in advance Bill.
Click to expand...


I had head temperature gauges on my T5

VDO Gauge

installation is a simple washer sending unit goes between the spark plug hole and the spark plug.

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-130.pdf

Help me diagnose an intermitant coil failure on one side.
 
phordman wrote:


****

The good news is that if I should have a pump failure I'm sure Bill Hagan would lend me a bike from his vast stable until mine is repaired. Thanks in advance Bill.[/quote]

Actually, I happen to have, in addition to my satisfactory (but hardly vast!) stable of Norge and EV just now, another red Norge. Jay Hines is having his driveway torn up and is storing his here for a bit. Kinda confusing, actually, in the a.m. :p

IMGP0850.jpg




BTW, the Norge is running great; glad the o/p adventure is in the past. Nada a flicker from the red light(s), etc.
 
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