leafman60
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I finally got those wheel bearings out and matched.
For the rear wheel-
They are double-row ball bearings - number 3203 -.
Dimensions are 17MM inside, 40MM outside, 17.5MM thick.
Cross reference is to :
SKF 3203 A 2RS1 or equivalent.
For the front wheel-
They are single-row ball bearings - number 6203 -.
Dimensions 17MM inside, 40 MM outside, 12 MM thick.
Cross reference is to:
SKF 6203-2RS1
The original bearings were not sealed but the above referenced bearings feature modern sealed construction that avoids problems with grease contaminating the brake shoes.
These are some very heavy-duty bearings for wheel application.
The originals also have a separate shield that taps into the wheel bore to help contain grease into the bearing shell. An fibrous grease absorber ring is also fitted in the wheel hub to catch errant grease and prevent it from contaminating the brake shoes.
The bearings are difficult to remove since they are thick and fit tightly. There is an inner sleeve between the two bearings on a wheel and there is no edge onto which a drift or puller tool can be affixed for removal by driving or pulling.
I had to use a friction tool - Motion Pro 08-0260, 08-0268 . This tool employs a collet insert that fits into the inner bore of the bearing. A wedge-ended driver rod is driven into the split collet to spread the collet into the bearing bore. The wedge driver is then struck with a hammer etc to drive the bearing out along with the collet that is wedged into the inner bearing bore.
This tool works great but I think it may damage a bearing so removed. Hence, once removed with the tool, I am not sure a bearing can be safely re-used.
Since I was replacing the old with new, sealed bearings, this was not relevant.
The new bearings can be gently tapped or pressed into the bores with a suitable mallet or press along with a properly-sized bearing driver or improvised socket.
The double row bearings aren't cheap if you use premium brands. My local bearing shop wanted $55 each for SKF's. I ordered a full set of SKF 3203's off ebay at about $35 each.
I've learned to always use Timken, SKF or some premium brand. I've had trouble with cheap bearings, especially in wheel bearing applications.
The stock bearings on my Civile have few miles on them but, at 40 years old, the grease had hardened and some of the balls seem to scratch. Besides, I like the idea of sealed bearings in applications where you don't want grease to contaminate your brake shoes.
More pictures coming.
Original 3203 bearing with separate grease shield
Motion Pro bearing tool, 08-0260, 08-0268 -driver and collet
Collet inserted in bearing
Driver fitted into collet split, placed on floor and driven to spread. The wheel lifted up and bearing driven out.
Driver, inner sleeve, bearing, bearing grease shield, collet.
For the rear wheel-
They are double-row ball bearings - number 3203 -.
Dimensions are 17MM inside, 40MM outside, 17.5MM thick.
Cross reference is to :
SKF 3203 A 2RS1 or equivalent.
For the front wheel-
They are single-row ball bearings - number 6203 -.
Dimensions 17MM inside, 40 MM outside, 12 MM thick.
Cross reference is to:
SKF 6203-2RS1
The original bearings were not sealed but the above referenced bearings feature modern sealed construction that avoids problems with grease contaminating the brake shoes.
These are some very heavy-duty bearings for wheel application.
The originals also have a separate shield that taps into the wheel bore to help contain grease into the bearing shell. An fibrous grease absorber ring is also fitted in the wheel hub to catch errant grease and prevent it from contaminating the brake shoes.
The bearings are difficult to remove since they are thick and fit tightly. There is an inner sleeve between the two bearings on a wheel and there is no edge onto which a drift or puller tool can be affixed for removal by driving or pulling.
I had to use a friction tool - Motion Pro 08-0260, 08-0268 . This tool employs a collet insert that fits into the inner bore of the bearing. A wedge-ended driver rod is driven into the split collet to spread the collet into the bearing bore. The wedge driver is then struck with a hammer etc to drive the bearing out along with the collet that is wedged into the inner bearing bore.
This tool works great but I think it may damage a bearing so removed. Hence, once removed with the tool, I am not sure a bearing can be safely re-used.
Since I was replacing the old with new, sealed bearings, this was not relevant.
The new bearings can be gently tapped or pressed into the bores with a suitable mallet or press along with a properly-sized bearing driver or improvised socket.
The double row bearings aren't cheap if you use premium brands. My local bearing shop wanted $55 each for SKF's. I ordered a full set of SKF 3203's off ebay at about $35 each.
I've learned to always use Timken, SKF or some premium brand. I've had trouble with cheap bearings, especially in wheel bearing applications.
The stock bearings on my Civile have few miles on them but, at 40 years old, the grease had hardened and some of the balls seem to scratch. Besides, I like the idea of sealed bearings in applications where you don't want grease to contaminate your brake shoes.
More pictures coming.
Original 3203 bearing with separate grease shield
Motion Pro bearing tool, 08-0260, 08-0268 -driver and collet
Collet inserted in bearing
Driver fitted into collet split, placed on floor and driven to spread. The wheel lifted up and bearing driven out.
Driver, inner sleeve, bearing, bearing grease shield, collet.