Oh No - Not Tires

[9mary7]

The zip tie method of containing the tyre sidewall and tube is a fantastic method of placing the tyre off and on the rim.

FWIW....I have used the ZipTie method several times but found it "cumbersome" with the stiffer sidewall tires, to the point that this Alabama humidity makes it unworkable. Now if I was in BFE that may be my only choice after plugs and micro compressor.
My NoMar was bought during a clearance sale and yes, most of my riding buddies end up at my place when it's time to re-shoe. We motorcyclists have a great life!!

 

[scottmastrocinque]

FWIW....I have used the ZipTie method several times but found it "cumbersome" with the stiffer sidewall tires, to the point that this Alabama humidity makes it unworkable.

Sunshine is your best friend in softening those stiff sidewalls.

 

[William H.]

Speaking of stiff sidewalls, this frigging rear Bridgestone gave me and my son a run for our money, ( and here I thought the old ME888 was stiff back when I installed it ). My new Constand tire changer was working the edge of its limits on that width of a tire but it got it. Now I'll see how well it works on the front tire. FYI
I add 1.25oz of weights to balance the Bridgestone but that was after I re-broke down the tire and rotated it 180degrees on the rim.

 

[Vagrant]

First, think about safety. I use a small portable space heater with the tire leaned up against it. Then make a tent over it with something and drink a beer while it heats up but don't leave it alone. Fire, melted tire etc.

 

[countryguz]

I decided on my new tires and put on Avocado Kodachrome AKA AVON COBRA CHROME. My niece was unable to pronounce the brand name. I have used all the other brands and wanted to try something new with long life so as not to go thru the tire removal process too often. I took off the left paneer with protector and the left exhaust. Took off the right paneer and exhaust. I took off the rear protector. I used a Black Widow Pro scissor jack to lift each end and removed and replaced the tires. I have jigger rigged wood and jacks before but this time I wanted the scissor jacks and they worked superbly.

After putting the machine back together I went for 250 mile ride and these tires made the world of difference from the 11 year old Dunlops. They are quieter, softer and grip the road when cornering on a hill when you get a bit of uplift on the bike. The Michelins would be a close second to them. I took the bike on the same route as I took my 2003 CA EV1100 on Wednesday and big difference in the road grab. The EV1100 has the michelins and being lighter it handled differently than a 725 pound bike so it was good to have the comparison. I am able to adjust the compression and rebound on the EV1100 for comparison as well.

 

[OR-Coast-Bikenut]

So personal preferences and differences aside, what tires are folks recommending?? The Exedras? Jeez, too much drama for a tire thread.

 

[William H.]

So personal preferences and differences aside, what tires are folks recommending?? The Exedras? Jeez, too much drama for a tire thread.

There are 27 pages here of recommendations and all of them are personal preference.
The 777's seem to be recommended the most but they don't come in the 200/60. My son runs the 777's on his Honda and he likes them a lot but I decided to stay with the stock 200/60. I myself did not get good mileage out of my Metzeler 888's so I went with the Bridgestones this time. Now with as little time as I have put on the new tires I can report the my Cali leans into a curve/turn a lot faster but that may change when they wear in some.

 

[scottmastrocinque]

So personal preferences and differences aside, what tires are folks recommending?? The Exedras? Jeez, too much drama for a tire thread.

All tire and oil threads ALWAYS devolve into hot messes.

This is why they are frowned upon here.

One person loves a particular tire or oil and 3 others hate it. Never changes.

Asking other people their opinion on tires is like asking their opinion on toilet paper or toothpaste.

It’s truly useless quite honestly.

 

[William H.]

I myself have gleaned some good info from this thread, before reading here I always assumed Shinko's were third rate tires. Going to the 185/65 will be my next tire change if these Bridgestones don't work out. Arm & Hammer ( Peroxicare!! ) is my toothpaste of choice though I don't get as many brushings out of tube like I did with my last tube of Crest

 

[scottmastrocinque]

...I always assumed Shinko's were third rate tires...

Ha! Nothing could be further from the truth. Excellent tires. I love them very much and so did my customers.

But remember, chocolate, vanilla, strawberry...

Somebody will chime in how they hate them... it's inevitable.

 

[Frank Ferrante]

Just put a set of Michelin Commander III Touring on my 2016 Eldorado. So far so good.

 

[Dee Cee]

Hi all, I am new on here and am the proud owner of a Cali 1400 SE for about 8 months.

I have read all of the threads in this tyre debate and found it very informative and at times entertaining. While we are all looking to improve the handling of our bikes tyres can be a very big step in the process.

Now to throw this out in the ring, can some one explain why MG torque the steering head bearings down to 60nm and then back them off to 50nm and left set at that. I have just done mine because I found the bike to be heavy in the steering at low speed and when I stripped the bike down to just the top and bottom triple clamps the steering head was tight and jerky to say the least. When I removed them I was a little surprised to find balls and not rollers as these are heavy machines, but they were well greased and looked okay but no doubt they would have flat spots and dents in them. I have done quite a few steering head bearing changes over the years on various bikes I have owned and always have been very happy with the way the bike feels after this, especially if the old ones were crook.

So I purchased some new ones and fitted them and set the preload as I have with any other bike I have done, which is load them up somewhat, move the steering head back and forth quite a few times to help seat them then back them off until I can feel movement then tighten until movement is gone and then about a quarter to half a turn of turn of preload which is nowhere near 50nm. I procrastinated about this move as it flies in the face of the manual but the proof is in the riding. MUCH better at low speed and I was nervous about what it would be like at normal highway speeds etc and if MG were using heavily torque stem bearings as a type of steering damper but the bike steered beautifully and I have a worn out Dunlop OEM on the back and a half worn one on the front so tyres are next.

There are some learned people on here and I am very interested to hear what they think about this.

I have test rode and hired some big Indians and Harleys and I found them to be a little less of a handful at low speed than my 1400 was, especially the Indian Challenger, they are phenomenal at low speed for such a heavy machine and I have had two older Calis and never found them to be so heavy in the steering at low speeds like my 1400 was until I did my bearings as stated above.

Thanks all for reading.