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Swingarm bearings.
- Thread starter GTM®
- Start date
I pushed bushing out a bit and greased needles. once both side edges had grease I pushed bushing out all the way for final greasing. needles stayed put
packed
I just hit 20,000km so, I’ll add that to the list of things to do / check…
White lithium in my opinion is not a good choice for packing the bearings. My preferred grease is Lucas Red N Tacky. It is rated NLGI GC-LB which is an excellent classification for this application.
I’m with John. White Lithium is a poor choice here.
Every mechanic has their favorites and in my case, I use Lucas Marine grease in applications like this where water intrusion is highly likely. It’s rated identical to Red and Tacky but is many times more water resistant.
I use it on my boat and motorcycles and I assure you, it will never wash out and it’s EP is rated for slower moving bearings whereas the Red is normally for faster spinning bearings.
In truth, either would be 100x better than White Lithium.
Every mechanic has their favorites and in my case, I use Lucas Marine grease in applications like this where water intrusion is highly likely. It’s rated identical to Red and Tacky but is many times more water resistant.
I use it on my boat and motorcycles and I assure you, it will never wash out and it’s EP is rated for slower moving bearings whereas the Red is normally for faster spinning bearings.
In truth, either would be 100x better than White Lithium.
You have to take all the needles out & wash all and same w/pin & outer race to remove the dirt otherwise you are greasing dirt. Just how I do it.
having trouble aligning pin to reattach swingarm. i have a jack in the back on the swingarm but i can’t seem to get the aligned to allow pin to screw in. what am i missing?
i will change to the waterproof grease next season. nobody really mentioned what they are using.
It is easier with the CARC off the swing arm. Then you can maneuver it by hand. Since you don't have the swing arm on yet why not just change the grease now and you won't have to touch it next year.
yes, I’m thinking about doing that. I’ll pick up some Lucas Marine grease on my way home from work. I do have to swing arm mounted. I have the pin through the first bearing on the shifter side, but I cannot seem to lineup the other side of the swing arm, and thread it in know matter how I move the swingarm. I did pull the pin back enough where I can get my finger in there to try to feel how off-center it is. if i cannot get it. i will unbolt carc
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Scott and John, my castle nut has been torqued to spec. now my paint marks are off. did they not torque it properly at factory? or did my sleeve rotate a bit. remember my castle nut/sleeve was hand tight.
Once removed and serviced the paint marks will never line up again. I think the paint marks are like a quality check at the factory that the items were torqued. As I stated earlier, any wear on the bearings will change the positions also every time the "pin" is torqued it will stretch a certain amount. As far as I'm concerned paint marks are useless. Perhaps on a new bike a visual check that something has come loose, but that is about all they are good for.
100% correct. I can personally attest to this as I witnessed it at the factory.
metal stretches, and it's a good thing it does, otherwise nothing with threads would ever stay tight
I'm in the middle of fitting a "new" old Perkins diesel into our old Willard (Long Beach) trawler (that's a boat, in case you are totally motorcycle focused
) It's a drawn out affair. By the end of November I should be ready to tackle the swing-arm bearings on my two carcs. This post has, thanks to all who have posted here, turned into the ultimate tutorial for exactly that. I thank you all
) It's a drawn out affair. By the end of November I should be ready to tackle the swing-arm bearings on my two carcs. This post has, thanks to all who have posted here, turned into the ultimate tutorial for exactly that. I thank you all
