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tank removal

AllanK said:
Alex,
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.
I have a VII and getting the fuel line off is usually no problem.
The Norge is a real problem until I tried your idea. Worked great and unassisted.
Had to lift the tank fairly high to access the lugs but when I did it came off like a dream.
Free Beer in Australia when you arrive and catch up with me.
Happy New Year, Allan
Click to expand...

:)
glad it really helps!
btw, all Guzzista are granted to be beer-supplied in Kiev or other parts of Ukraine :) I'm missing an understanding company here a bit, my S12 is a kinda only post-1990 MG in the 46 million people big country here..
they had some dozen in a road police, but w/o service the bikes now RIP as I understand.

the good thing - the bike is unstealable :), as it is definitely the only one S12 here (had to enter the model to the database during registration)
 
two days ago, I came up with the exact same process -- gently pushing the teeth down past the ring on the red plastic connect, and sliding the gray ring of the disconnect off. Then there was a thunderstorm and I moved the bike inside without changing the inner plugs (my first-time goal). Next morning (yesterday) I pull the bike out happy the fairing was already off, and while trying to move the tank to a good position to use this tooth-pushing technique, I must have caught the fuel pipe somewhere because I heard a 'SNAP' and I now have that snapped-off red plastic piece sticking unhappily out of my fuel-pump assembly.

So "yes" I absolutely agree that pushing down the teeth gently from the inside before pulling off the disconnect is an excellent technique. But don't rush to get there, or you'll be like me, listening to guy at a Guzzi dealer telling you that you'll have to replace the whole fuel pump for that little red plastic piece while you think about how quickly you can get out of there, and what alternatives you have.

Sadly, the fix will likely mean improving the stock disconnect, and the 'this actually works' technique will be useless in my life. Until my next, new Guzzi, of course...
 
Re: tank removal / valve adjust on 8V

Just got a new 2012 Norge 8V. Love the bike and will be doing the first service in a couple of weeks. Can anyone tell me if it is nessessary to remove the tank to adjust the valve clearances?

Thanks
Walter
 
Re: tank removal / valve adjust on 8V

romanowski said:
Just got a new 2012 Norge 8V. Love the bike and will be doing the first service in a couple of weeks. Can anyone tell me if it is nessessary to remove the tank to adjust the valve clearances?

Thanks
Walter
Click to expand...

Here for only a few moments, so pardon the cryptic (and probably not especially helpful) response.

No need to remove tank. The panels on side of tank come off easily, giving easy access to valve covers.

Do look up the various tricks to pulling plugs without damaging connectors VERY important.

Gotta run.

Bill
 
Thanks Bill - good to know I don't need to remove the tank. Now that Bill has brought up the issue of removing the plugs, can anyone help me out here? How hard can it be to remove plug connectors?

Walter
 
The detailed instructions were extremely helpful for removing the tank.
I did not start up the bike an thus had a little fuel to catch.
Some of it didn't get caught and spilled on the inner parts of the bike.
That special connection is a puzzler, until you know how it is supposed to work.
Next time I will have an empty tank and the right socket for that pesky inner spark plug.
What is with those STUPID hose clamps. I replaced a couple with real clamps, and I plan on replacing the rest of them next time I remove the tank.
 
Ha. I've just removed mine again for general maintenance. Every time I look at that red elbow I have visions of it breaking.

What are the repercussions if I leave that connector assembly in place, and install another, easier to use and sturdier, connector in line further down the fuel line? Will it affect fuel pressure or have any other side effects?

Just thinking is all.
 
Roblatt said:
Ha. I've just removed mine again for general maintenance. Every time I look at that red elbow I have visions of it breaking.

What are the repercussions if I leave that connector assembly in place, and install another, easier to use and sturdier, connector in line further down the fuel line? Will it affect fuel pressure or have any other side effects?

Just thinking is all.
Click to expand...

Installing a second connector shouldn't be a problem. In fact, I've thought about using one of these http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html
 
Roblatt said:
thank you gents.

I 'll have a think about both options. I also read that if you use petroleum jelly on the red elbow, it makes removal easy.

again thanks

Robert
Click to expand...

For what it is worth, petroleum jelly will not harm certain plastics, polyethylene for example, but it will attack rubber. Not sure what the fuel line is made of but just a heads up...
 
Hard to answer...so many types.

However, for applications like this, my CHEAP & EFFECTIVE solution is a dab of vegetable oil rubbed on with the thumb and forefinger. Won't harm plastic or rubber. :D
 
Hey Rob, I've heard olive oil is good for preventing web foot syndrome especially if alternated with liberal doses of fermented grape juice ;)
Hope your staying dry and let us know if you come across a reasonable priced metal Q/connect locally. I am squellching up to BJ Bearings later so will ask there. :)
 
Anyone happen to know what the inside diameter is for the fuel line. I have been toying with installing a quick disconnect as a preventative measure. My recent spring maintenance ran into a bit of a snag when trying to get the connector off of the fuel pump and do not want to push my luck.

Cheers
 
Kym,

I've put it all together now so I'm not going to worry until next time I tickle her G spot. But let me know if you do come across anything.

We have water views here so property price must've gone up, although it' isn't too bad since the rain has stopped. I heard your piece of paradise is a lot worse.

When the weather improves we'll try to get a few of us together for a ride. FYI, olive oil is a great moisturizer if ingested. I would have baby skin if it wasn't for the reds.

cheers

Robert
 
Now one more poor soul was successful in using the "Push the Teeth" method. . A couple of clarifications from one of my "Eureka" moments. The four teeth "latch" on to a sort of circular rib on the red pipe. You are on your way when you can see the teeth behind that rib after attempting to push them over the rib. A jeweler's blade screw driver worked best. In my case, the gas line sort of fell off the red pipe after I successfully moved the last tooth. Some of the teeth are easier to see and work than others. Disconnect the drain pipes before you start. It's a lot easier that way. I have to do this again next week, so I will try to include photos of the procedure..Thanks.
 
I have come into this discussion rather late, however, I would add my two cents worth.
The use of WD40 to lubricate may compromize some of the plastics and rubbers involved in this connector.
I successfully used a product called Selleys DryGlide to assist disconnection of the grrrr connector.
This is a Teflon lubricant in an evaporating carrier fluid. It does not harm plastics or rubber.
I would imagine it would be available in other countries albiet under a different name.

P.S. I used the jeweller's screwdriver approach as well as the teflon spray to be able to release that pesky grrrr.... connector.
Cheers
Brian :) :D
 
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