• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Transmission Questions.

pizza for you

pizza for you

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
176
Location
Ohio
Started to go through my 850 T transmission and seeing things that has raised some questions for me.
Picture below is my driven shaft as per parts book. My driven shaft has three shims and a washer, the parts book shows one shim and one washer. I'm thinking someone has been into this transmission after it left the factory. Shims outlined in yellow. Should I subtract two shims and go with one as the parts book shows ? Another set of pictures show how close the gear is to the bearing retainer bolt lock tabs on the driven shaft on the transmission cover. Is this normal ?
2022 09 02 15 03 31 100 0002 Photos 2022 09 02 15 04 17 100 0004 Photos 100 0003 2022 09 02 15 29 16 spare parts catalog tpdf Foxit Reader
 
One other thing I forgot to ask about are the bearing races. Should I install new ones with Lock tight or install them without Lock tight ? Bearing races .
 
Hi.

Most definitely that gearbox has been opened since it was made. I doubt there is one around that hasn't been opened yet.

If the gearbox was shifting normal, I would ignore the additional shims, and presume that they were added for alignment purposes of the shaft.

I bet those bolts that are used with the locking tabs, are not original as well.

I am not sure about this specific application but, a lot of those unusual interior bolts and screws on earlier motorcycles, have reduced heads on them, and when people replace them, the heads are significantly larger. I see this a lot on vintage Japanese motorcycles. I usually end up turning them down on my lathe or machining them on my mill, when the head size is too large on bolts and screws all the time. I can buy replacement bolts in high strength steel or even stainless steel at Lowes, for a fraction of the price of a OEM bolt, which often times is outrageously expensive or the dreaded, NLA (No longer available). After a bit of machining, they work perfectly for a fraction of the price.

About your locking tabs...the saving grace in this case is that the gear will not drift laterally unless there is a serious problem, so as long as they are that far apart, they shouldn't kiss under normal operation.

As to your bearing races. I'm not understanding your photo so much. I assume you are speaking about plain bearings then? I've never used any chemical on them, so I'd say no Loctite, however John Zibell, Charlie Mullendore (Amboman), or V700Steve are much better resources for this really early stuff. Hopefully they will chime in here or you can send them a private message asking their opinions.

Also, where in Ohio? My workshop and I are in Findlay, 40 miles south of Toledo.

Good Luck!
 
Last edited:
scottmastrocinque said:
Hi.

Most definitely that gearbox has been opened since it was made. I doubt there is one around that hasn't been opened yet.

If the gearbox was shifting normal, I would ignore the additional shims, and presume that they were added for alignment purposes of the shaft.

I bet those bolts that are used with the locking tabs, are not original as well.

I am not sure about this specific application but, a lot of those unusual interior bolts and screws on earlier motorcycles, have reduced heads on them, and when people replace them, the heads are significantly larger. I see this a lot on vintage Japanese motorcycles. I usually end up turning them down on my lathe or machining them on my mill, when the head size is too large on bolts and screws all the time. I can buy replacement bolts in high strength steel or even stainless steel at Lowes, for a fraction of the price of a OEM bolt, which often times is outrageously expensive or the dreaded, NLA (No longer available). After a bit of machining, they work perfectly for a fraction of the price.

About your locking tabs...the saving grace in this case is that the gear will not drift laterally unless there is a serious problem, so as long as they are that far apart, they shouldn't kiss under normal operation.

As to your bearing races. I'm not understanding your photo so much. I assume you are speaking about plain bearings then? I've never used any chemical on them, so I'd say no Loctite, however John Zibell, Charlie Mullendore (Amboman), or V700Steve are much better resources for this really early stuff. Hopefully they will chime in here or you can send them a private message asking their opinions.

Also, where in Ohio? My workshop and I are in Findlay, 40 miles south of Toledo.

Goo Bearing races
Click to expand...
The races I was referring to are at the end of the shafts. I was reading an article that stated that the races from the factory was secured to the shafts with Locktight. My new races I want to use are in the picture below. Scott I'm located about 20 miles south of Canton, Ohio in the small town of Dover.
100 0001
 
I really cannot give an intelligent answer on this one. I’m very sorry.

This is definitely one for John, Charlie, Steve, and maybe even Todd (GTM).
 
Usually those races need to be heated to fit on the shaft. Once cooled they are plenty tight. If they will go on without heating then use Loctite 640. I usually put the shaft in a freezer, then use an electric heat gun to heat the sleeve. I use the same procedure for installing new bearings in the cover and transmission case. That is freeze the bearing, and heat the case.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top