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Transmission Questions.

pizza for you

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
Messages
187
Location
Ohio
Started to go through my 850 T transmission and seeing things that has raised some questions for me.
Picture below is my driven shaft as per parts book. My driven shaft has three shims and a washer, the parts book shows one shim and one washer. I'm thinking someone has been into this transmission after it left the factory. Shims outlined in yellow. Should I subtract two shims and go with one as the parts book shows ? Another set of pictures show how close the gear is to the bearing retainer bolt lock tabs on the driven shaft on the transmission cover. Is this normal ?
2022-09-02 15_03_31-100_0002.JPG ‎- Photos.png 2022-09-02 15_04_17-100_0004.JPG ‎- Photos.png 100_0003.JPG 2022-09-02 15_29_16-spare_parts_catalog_t.pdf - Foxit Reader.png
 
One other thing I forgot to ask about are the bearing races. Should I install new ones with Lock tight or install them without Lock tight ? Bearing races.png .
 
Hi.

Most definitely that gearbox has been opened since it was made. I doubt there is one around that hasn't been opened yet.

If the gearbox was shifting normal, I would ignore the additional shims, and presume that they were added for alignment purposes of the shaft.

I bet those bolts that are used with the locking tabs, are not original as well.

I am not sure about this specific application but, a lot of those unusual interior bolts and screws on earlier motorcycles, have reduced heads on them, and when people replace them, the heads are significantly larger. I see this a lot on vintage Japanese motorcycles. I usually end up turning them down on my lathe or machining them on my mill, when the head size is too large on bolts and screws all the time. I can buy replacement bolts in high strength steel or even stainless steel at Lowes, for a fraction of the price of a OEM bolt, which often times is outrageously expensive or the dreaded, NLA (No longer available). After a bit of machining, they work perfectly for a fraction of the price.

About your locking tabs...the saving grace in this case is that the gear will not drift laterally unless there is a serious problem, so as long as they are that far apart, they shouldn't kiss under normal operation.

As to your bearing races. I'm not understanding your photo so much. I assume you are speaking about plain bearings then? I've never used any chemical on them, so I'd say no Loctite, however John Zibell, Charlie Mullendore (Amboman), or V700Steve are much better resources for this really early stuff. Hopefully they will chime in here or you can send them a private message asking their opinions.

Also, where in Ohio? My workshop and I are in Findlay, 40 miles south of Toledo.

Good Luck!
 
Last edited:
Hi.

Most definitely that gearbox has been opened since it was made. I doubt there is one around that hasn't been opened yet.

If the gearbox was shifting normal, I would ignore the additional shims, and presume that they were added for alignment purposes of the shaft.

I bet those bolts that are used with the locking tabs, are not original as well.

I am not sure about this specific application but, a lot of those unusual interior bolts and screws on earlier motorcycles, have reduced heads on them, and when people replace them, the heads are significantly larger. I see this a lot on vintage Japanese motorcycles. I usually end up turning them down on my lathe or machining them on my mill, when the head size is too large on bolts and screws all the time. I can buy replacement bolts in high strength steel or even stainless steel at Lowes, for a fraction of the price of a OEM bolt, which often times is outrageously expensive or the dreaded, NLA (No longer available). After a bit of machining, they work perfectly for a fraction of the price.

About your locking tabs...the saving grace in this case is that the gear will not drift laterally unless there is a serious problem, so as long as they are that far apart, they shouldn't kiss under normal operation.

As to your bearing races. I'm not understanding your photo so much. I assume you are speaking about plain bearings then? I've never used any chemical on them, so I'd say no Loctite, however John Zibell, Charlie Mullendore (Amboman), or V700Steve are much better resources for this really early stuff. Hopefully they will chime in here or you can send them a private message asking their opinions.

Also, where in Ohio? My workshop and I are in Findlay, 40 miles south of Toledo.

Goo Bearing races.png
The races I was referring to are at the end of the shafts. I was reading an article that stated that the races from the factory was secured to the shafts with Locktight. My new races I want to use are in the picture below. Scott I'm located about 20 miles south of Canton, Ohio in the small town of Dover.
100_0001.JPG
 
I really cannot give an intelligent answer on this one. I’m very sorry.

This is definitely one for John, Charlie, Steve, and maybe even Todd (GTM).
 
Usually those races need to be heated to fit on the shaft. Once cooled they are plenty tight. If they will go on without heating then use Loctite 640. I usually put the shaft in a freezer, then use an electric heat gun to heat the sleeve. I use the same procedure for installing new bearings in the cover and transmission case. That is freeze the bearing, and heat the case.
 
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